IBMobile

The PCM grounds are the black/tan 14 AGW at C31 and C32. They are spliced with the black/tan 18 AGW from the datalink connector and another black/tan wire that is not used. These all join at splice S126 to a black/tan 10 AGW. It goes to the gray connector, which I think, you have removed at the right battery. When I did the ground modification I soldered all those wires together. I

My turbo with BHAF, with 109k on it, looked like that also . No play in and out or side to side. I cleaned it off with brake cleaner and let air dry.

I have a Parker store down the road from me. I use them for all my fittings. See if there is one near you. http://ph.parker.com/us/en/products

I spoke to @JAG1 yesterday. He's doing fine and busy building a new house for someone. He hasn't been able to post here for awhile due to, he thinks, a bad server with his internet provider. He and Mike are working on it.

Get a test light or a volt ohm meter and a jumper wire . Test for 12 volt at terminal A/brown wire at the starter motor when the ignition switch is in the start position, if voltage then starter motor/contacts are bad. If no power at the brown wire for the starter motor then: At the starter relay test for power all the time at pin #30. If no power at #30, check fuse #2/30 amp. At pin #86 check for power when the ignition switch is turned to the start position. If no power at pin #86, check ignition switch for power at yellow wire, if power then check power at jumper yellow wire to yellow/red wire. Ohm test pin #85, should be near 0 ohms in park or neutral, if not check wire to trans mission and test neutral safety switch.

Like eating a cow, one bite at a time. Take your time and it will all be good. I've used that clear JB Weld for plastic. It work good, sets up fast, makes a strong bound and stinks like....

Here some info.

The CEL will come on in my truck. With it on all the time from the disconnected grid heaters then when a more serious problem occurs, for example the crank sensor going bad, I wouldn't know it until the engine died. In California, as in some other states, the trucks have to go through some type of inspection. If the CEL is on, or a code stored, or the monitors not set from a code being erased then it is an automatic inspection failure.

Grid Heater Bypass Installing this bypass will allow you to manually control if and for how long you want to run the grid heaters when the ECM is commanding the grid heaters on. This will reduce the load on the alternator/charging system and in turn reduce the harmful AC voltage. This bypass will also keep the fault codes P0380 Intake Air Heater Relay #1 Control Circuit and P0382 Intake Air Heater Relay #2 Control Circuit from being set. Parts needed: 1. 2 micro relays, terminal 87 (5) normally open (NO) with suppressor 2. 2 5 watt / 20 ohm resistor 3. 1 single pole single throw switch (spst) 4. 2 male bullet and 2 female bullet connectors 5. 2 ring terminals 7. Rosin core solder 6. 10 female quick connect terminals 8. Heat shrink 9. ¼” protective wire cover 10. Electrical tape 11. Wire 18 AWG 4 different colors would be nice. 12. Optional 3 ATC fuse holders with 2 amp fuse 13. Something to mount the relays and resistors on. 14. 5 or more 6” zip ties Micro relay Putting it together To mount the relays, resistors and fuses I used part of a used relay mount from a Volvo that I found. It was cut and modified to fit the parts. I didn’t want to cut the wire harness at the fire wall to access the solenoid trigger wires, yellow/black and orange/black, that goes from the Engine Control Module (ECM) to the grid heater control solenoids. I ran two wires to each solenoid connecting to the trigger wires with the male bullet connectors. This sent the trigger signal back to the control relays at terminal 30 (3). Two more wires were run from terminal 87 (5) of the control relay back to terminal 86 of the grid heater solenoids and connected the wires with the female bullet connectors. You can cover the wires from the firewall to the solenoids with the ¼” protective wire cover. I installed the rely/resistor housing under the dash secured with a sheet metal screw and attached the ground wires to the dash sheet metal. For power I tapped into the fuse box on the left side of the dash and installed one of the ATC fuse holders and a 3 amp fuse. The control switch is installed into the left side of the steering column cover; I didn’t want it sticking out of the dash. With the switch in the on position the control relay contacts 30 and 87 close and the grid heaters will operate normally giving heated air to the cylinders. The switch in the off position the control relay contacts 30 and 87a are closed and the ECM signal goes to the resistors mimicking the grid heater solenoids. No check engine light and reduced electrical load on the charging system. The switch can be operated on or off before during or after engine start up. Another added benefit is if your batteries are weak the grid heaters can be turned off saving power for the starter. Written by: J. Daniel Martin, Martin’s Mobile Maintenance AKA IBMobile 12/21/2018 View full Cummins article

@dripley You need a bucket so you can carry a tune. Merry Christmas

Here in the progressive state of California my AR has been banded in it's current configuration, it's very bad, looks like an assault weapon and those 30 round mags I had to get rid of so I wouldn't be a felon. In another state it would all be legal. As for the NRA, They haven't helped out here at all.

That $379 price for the RV's from DAP has a $100 core charge. When I bought mine I kept my cores and paid $428. With no timing/fuel controller won't those 90 HP injectors be smoky?

Read this thread, it may help answer some questions.

Replace them with Bosch RV 275, 50HP over stock, no smoke, high quality, last a long time, about $430 for 6 with no core.

Push come to shove we can set up a time to drive my truck over those spots and see if there is a difference in ride.

You live in the same county I live in and drive the same roads. I 've experienced the same thing when driving on different sections of freeways around here. I attribute it to the lane being beat to death and the road surface uneven by the heavy trucks usage of the road. I think you drive on interstate 8 more than I am but that road east of El Cajon is bad. My truck bounces like crazy on north bound interstate 15, just north of the San Diego-Riverside county border and south of the U S Border Patrol checkpoint when I'm in either of the two right lanes. The right south bound lane of 15 just south of highway 76 was tore up and repaved 2 years ago because it was so bad.

The Government took it over. You have to unlock that forum. It should tell you how under the picture.

Use rosin core solder for electrical connections. Acid core is for radiator repair and plumbing.

The wire that smoked, was it yellow with white tracer? If so then that is the power wire for the lift pump from the ECM.

No, that no normal. Is the wait to start light coming on? Do you have any codes?

I've made a grid heater bypass that like the others you can select heaters or no heaters with a switch but the ECM is fooled not to throw code p038 and p0382. The last two weeks have been cold enough here for me to do full testing before it's I release the results.

Right now my 2000 ram with 109k is one of my newer vehicles with the lowest mileage. 1990 Astro van with 334k+ work van 1991 Volvo 940 sedan over 300k 1995 Volvo 940 wagon 186k my daily driver 2001 Volvo S60 sedan 194k 2001 Volvo S80 sedan 170K I installed so many back in the day that I could 'eye ball' it and get it with in a degree or two when checked with a dwell meter. Rule of thumb for single set of points: 8cyl 30°, 6cyl 45°, 4cyl 60° or point gap ~.016". As the points wore and the gap decreased the dwell increased and the timing retarded.

That's as close to stock as you can get. Make sure they are the Bosch RV275 and not some cheap knock off junk. I bought mine from DAP last spring.