IBMobile

THIS IS ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW!

Check this out http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/391010030469?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true

Took a quick trip to Zion National Park in southern Utah this week. These pictures don't do justice to the scale and beauty of the park.

The rebuilder may be thinking about AC voltage causing the PCM not to lock up the overdrive but to wear out clutches and bands along with the sluggish shifting I think not, The transmission probably has low line pressure causing the bands and clutch packs not to fully engage/slip and the front pump is the first place to look.

No, not that it would matter. It's an English made car, made in England by people who drink warm beer. Back then you need two of them. One to drive while the other one was being fixes.

I've used a floor jack with a piece of wood (a strip plywood works good) between the door and jack plate and have a helper hold it steady.

While the evaporator is disconnected from he system block off the A/C lines to reduce moisture infiltration. Replace the expansion valve and accumulator with that evaporator, add a few ounces of PAG oil then evacuate and recharge the system. I know more stuff to get and do but the A/C system will love you for it.

The only V12s I ever worked on were in the Jaguar XKE with 4 Zenith-Stromberg side draft carbs. This was at a dealer in 74-76. I'd rather hit my thumb with a hammer than work on one again.

Fantastic

That's what metal coat hangers are for. Now you need to go get Midasized!

Go to You Tube and type in "cleaning alloy wheels". A lot of videos come up.

This is the 40 amp fuse in the PDC for the 12 volt power feed.

That's all you can ask for. With the crimp and solder connections covered with grease an heat shrink I think you'll be ok. If you find out you are drawing heavy amp load on one of the wires you can always run another wire.

About 24 years ago I was towing a tent trailer up to Durango, CO. Along the way the thread on one tire then another pealed off. I stop in Gallop, NM at, I think, a Big O tire store. It was the only major tire store I could find at the time. I had all the tires replaced even the spare. About a year later the side wall on one of the tires developed a bulge. When I brought it into the local Big O I was told 'That trailer tire came out of Denver and ours come out of Bakersfield'. I told him, 'Not my problem, I bought the tires at a Big O national chain store and have the warranty'. They took care of it. That's why I buy most of my tires at a national chain. Some times I get name brand tires that are like new from the salvage yards for pennies on the dollar then I don't care about the warranty.

Also there should be battery voltage at the black/light blue wire at the sender. this voltage comes from pin # 17 at the PDC. The voltage should be less on the dark blue/white wire that comes out of the fuel sender and goes to pin # 26 in the C3 connector at the PCM. The change in resistance of the fuel gauge changes the voltage to the PCM. The PCM then sends the value over the CCD to the instrument cluster circuit board where an algorithm is applied to find the correct needle position. If you do not have voltage at the sender or at C3 pin #26 it may be a bad connection or a bad wire.

A 12 gauge wire will not fit into a 16-14 gauge butt connector (color coded blue). The 12 gauge wire will only fit into the 12-10 gauge butt connector (color coded yellow). I've had experience with this when I ran out of yellow butt connectors and tried to use the blue.

Dave is right. If you can see, turn a knob and hold a probe or alligator clamp you've got it made. You pick the right function, touch the probes to the right contacts and read the results just like a lab class in school. A 12 volt DC system will not hurt you. I like it when they ask if I want to Super Size my order.

One other thing to factor in is the tire outlet you get them from. It can be the best tire in the world but will the store be there tomorrow and if there is a problem will they stand behind the product or give a line of BS.

This is the wire for a factory Trailer Tow Connector FUCTION GAUGE COLOR 1 ground 12 black 2 trailer brake 12 light blue 3 tail/running lights 14 black/orange 4 12v power/charging 12 red/orange 5 left turn/stop light 16 dark green/red 6 right turn/stop light 16 brown/red 7 back up 18 violet/black

No reason not too. If they are soldered there won't be any corrosion to worry about just make sure the wires are long enough to go where you thing you'll be putting the new plug and covered so as not to short out. A white wire on a trailer is a ground but in the truck I have no idea. You're just going to have to test it and see what if anything powers it up or ohm test it for ground. Do you have a brake controller in the cab? If so have a helper move the manual slider on the controller while you check, with a test light or voltmeter, which wire has power. With the controller off have the helper or use a cut off broom handle stuck between the driver's seat and brake peddle and test which wire has power that's your brake lights.

First off get rid of all the wire that's Scotch lock connected to the main set of wires. Those wires were used for a 4 pin flat connector. With a volt/ohmmeter or test light test each wire as to its function and record what it is: 12v power, left turn/brake light, right turn/brake light, power for trailer brakes, run lights, ground and aux pin. If the wire that's left is bad splice in some new with solder and heat shrink connections in truck and a new plug installed where you need it. I would use eye connectors soldered to the new wire and dielectric grease. I have two female connectors in the bed of my truck on the left side. One in front of the wheel well and one behind it along with the factory plug on the rear trailer hitch. To install a plug connector in the bed find the spot that will work for you and with a hole saw slightly bigger than the connector and cut the hole run the wires to the connector and install.

I'm running the Edge EZ with the boost elbow. The boost elbow has a fixed opening in it which limits the pressure going to the actuator for the waste gate and is not adjustable. Before I put the elbow on boost was around 17-18psi, with it boost will now hit 25-26psi and settle down to 22-23psi. Make sure there are no air leaks between the turbo and the intake manifold. You may want to check the clamps on the air hoses along with the air hoses themselves for fit and integrity.

You can use this thread sealer also. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/PER0/80631.oap?ck=Search_80631_5005221_2902&keyword=80631

Isn't it a good feeling to have what you worked on perform the way it should when needed. Sounds like you're ready for a long haul now. I'd put money on the trailer brakes being out of adjustment.

The article is now up and can be viewed in the 24 valve 2ed gen. section. A T-fitting in the return line with a valve attached to it would work.