IBMobile

Don't for get to slid the heat shrink on one weir and move in out of the heat range before soldering the weirs together. That's something we've all forgot to do.

Solder and shrink tube is the strongest and cleanest connection that will last. You can use the butt connectors that all ready have solder in them with a heat shrink wrap. This is one type.↓ Answer to bonus question Read what's under the forum headings and see if it fits. If it's to far off the mark someone will move it. No worries.

I've had that happen a few times. Person says "all the lights on the dash came on and then the car died. The starter now just goes click". I turn the key and hear click, test the battery, ok. I check a few other thing like oil level, nothing on the dip stick, and does crank pulley turn, no. "I think your engine is seized because there is no oil in it" "Can't be, I just had it changed yesterday". I look under the car and see fresh oil coating along the bottom. The oil is coming from the oil filter housing. I remove the housing and fin the sealing O-ring is not in the grove for it but jammed against the stop. "You better call the people who did your oil change".

I add 2 stroke oil every time I put fuel in the tank, sometimes a little more or less than 1 oz /gal. I haven't experienced any detrimental effects from using it as an additive. As for smog testing, the truck has been tested 3 times in the past 7 years and passes the snap acceleration test procedure with no reduction in the ratio of 2 stroke oil.

Over 186k. They drive the car between 70 and 100 miles a day.

Heat all ways goes to cold, Heat energy absorbed from the Sun during the day radiates back to cold outer space. Luckily the Earth's residual heat keeps us from being frozen every night. As for global warming, go ask Ted Danson. Todays high was 85° with a low of 54°

He'd have better luck if it was a puppy.

Just replaced a lady's engine in her 08 Nissan Sentra. It's a 2liter engine and takes 4qt of oil. when I drained the engine about < ¾ of a quart came out. She said she never saw the low oil pressure light come on. I guess that #4 rod going through the side of the block woke her up. Oh well.

For the first time it wasn't to bad. Getting it back in one peace is all ways a success. A little more air time and it will be Fireman Mike to the rescue. Ya, I know, drones around fires are a no-no. It's called fly drone fishing.

If your fuel system is good you don't need to prime it. Those of use that are running the Fuel Boss pump are not using an electrical pump to prime. Driply is right about not running the pump straight off the battery with out some kind of auto shut off feature post engine shut down. The fire risk is just to great with two batteries and that positive cable running over the top of the radiator.

That's why I use all season nitrogen.

Mine does the same. You can test the sender with it out of the tank. Connect the jumper wires between the truck and sender unit then with the ignition on manually move the float arm from empty, ¼, ½, ¾ and full. Take note fuel gauge readings.

That looks like to much fun but a little to rich for my blood. I'll stick to shooting clay. Can't wait to see the aerial phots/videos of the back country.

I'd seal the old fuel line too. You never know when you might need to use it. I use mine as a return line from the pressure regulator to the filler neck for the Fuel Boss.

I have to agree that the mom and pop stores don't have corporate to answer to about how often they change their filters but the fuel they sell is made at the same refinery as Chevron and other major brands. The fuel sometimes has the same additives as the major brands. Here in San Diego county the majority of our fuel comes from a refinery in Torrance, CA , just out side of LA. The fuel then is sent through a pipe line to a tank farm in Mission Valley, and across the street from QUALCOMM STADEUM where the San Diego Chargers play. There it is loaded in to tanker trucks where the brand marker or additive for Chevron, Shell, Mobile, etc., is or is not added, then delivered to the retailer.

Disconnect the batteries' negative cables other wise you risk over voltage across the ECU and PCM.

Are you going to just do a visual inspection or Plastigauge them? Why not just through a set of bearing at it and be done with the bottom end for a while.

I had 3 or 4 CB's, some were the old 23 channel, along with 3 antennas. I couldn't get any to work until I found out that the antenna mast has to be tuned or matched to the CB with an SWR meter.

It's good you took the day to recharge your battery. This is something only you can do and should be done on a regular basis.

When I took my Carter vane pump apart there was a wire mesh filter on the inlet side of the pump.

I go to auto body paint supply stores. Some of them either have in stock or can get the 'exact' color in a spray can.

Did your mechanic volt test at the pump to see if the ECM is providing 12 volts or not when engine starts. If 12 volts is pump still running, if yes then test pressure. If not 12 volts then there may be an issue with the wiring or ECM.

Mea culpa. Thanks for the correction. I had read that the fsm said atf +4 for power steering and had assumed it covered all years. I'm going to be flushing the atf out of my PS this coming week.

If the Raptor did not come with a wiring harness, fuse and relay then you will need to wire it like this.

The Factory Service Manual calls for ATF+4 and that's what I use.