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A thought similar to that ran through my head this morning I'll pm you later.

You still have air flow around the exhaust pipe while shielding the trans, very nice for $28. It should help and I don't see a down side.

Test the center air duct temp with the A/C off first to see if it is the same as out side air and be sure the blend door is closed all the way. Then run the A/C through the enter vent on max A/C (this stops out side air and is in recirculation mode) turn fan on to #3 bring rpm up to 1500 and if you can put a fan in front of the radiator and turn on med to high speed. the fan in front of the radiator and 1500rpm simulates driving at about 35mph and you should see a duct temp below 35°

In the seventies and early eighties the only time I would machine rotors, there was a brake lathe where I worked, was if the brakes went metal to metal. This was with the asbestos pads. When semi-metallic pad were introduced I stared to see brake rotors warping and rotors wearing out in 2 to 3 sets of brake pads, also a lot of noise complaints. I'm still up in the air about ceramic pads. I haven't had much experience with them. The talk about them is they "do" and "don't" wear out rotors, less dust that doesn't stick, quiet, last longer than other types of pads, don't dissipate heat very well and not good for heavy duty braking.

134A boils (changing state from a liquid to a gas) at -15.34°F. When the 134A is discharging from the can both the volume and pressure drops in the can when that happens the temperature drops also. Bring the heat up and the pressure comes up. I believe this is the equation for it P₁V₁/T₁=P₂V₂/T₂.

I've seen how you stop

That not long enough to do anything. When you first hook up a new can of 134A to a system that's running you'll get a high reading when the can is first opened due to higher pressure in the can than the low side. Will the AC PRO set up let you see what the low side pressure is with out opening the can? If so, you can jumper the connector for the pressure switch with a paper clip this will keep the compressor on all the time. Don't let that jumper touch ground and don't run the AC system for a long time with out adding the 134A. Now you will be able to get a low side reading and add as need.

Remember, their time is more important then your time. If they inconvenience you to bad so long as they get theirs. See above. I'll bet that diaper was toss on the side of the road. $25-30 to have 2 rotors turned plus my time and cost to bring them to the machine shop. I can have 2 new rotors delivered free from my supplier for less than $70.

You're not alone in this observation. Critical thinking and problem solving is not being taught. Going that little bit extra in customer service is almost unheard of. I deal with these problems almost daily weather I'm ordering parts, having a cylinder head redone, or doing business at the bank. I'm sure we all could tell story after story of poor service and/or workmanship we've been experiencing. It's sad to say it's only going to get worse with the new generation being past from grade to grade without learning anything, lacking face to face communication skills, and their all winners because their feelings can't get hurt. I've seen the blank stare of the store associate and it's frightening. And NO I don't want fries with that oil filter or have it super sized. you can't fix stupid

I guess what we're trying to say is if anyone in CA wants certain performance upgrades they're going to have to get them from out of state and take them off every 2 years or have a friend that does smog testing to get your registration. Good to know and that you can pass smog testing with them.

The smog tec/owner saw the Edge EZ under the hood and said it was illegal. I went on the CARB web site and the EZ is not on their approved list. I've been dealing with this SMOG station for 16yr. I send them business and they take care of me. Katoom, I see you have RV275 injectors. How are they working for you with the EZ?

Or throw it under the seat for a cheap backup.

You must be going to Glamis or Ocotillo and that's a hard drive back on 8. I've done it a few times pulling my 8k lb 5er. I'm running an Edge EZ with a boost elbow but I got it before the California Air Resource Board (CARB) out lawed it. A lot of the programmers are outlawed here and when you bring your truck in for the biannual SMOG inspection it will fail if they see the programmer on it. It will also fail if any smoke is seen during the 'snap' test so be carful on the size of the injector.

Good! Because he's still hungry.

I'm going there August 18-23, then again in October were I hope to see JAG1 again.

Thanks, The chart is generic but will work for a dodge truck. I recharged a 2006 Volvo S60 last Friday with out side temp of 102° low side of 15psi and high side of 150psi, put in 16 oz into a 1.6 lb system. The low side never went above 35psi and the high side went to 300psi. The duct temp was 20°. So by that chart the low side should have been 50-55psi. Is that with or without rear evaporator?

Dripley enjoying his A/C on the way to work

Picture to help with cool thoughts during the dog days of summer.

I'd dump a can in and see how long it holds. If over a year then stay with that, if less than a year then repair the leak. O-ring kit at O'Reilly's. You'll also need a spring lock coupling tool to get the lines apart. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/A!s!C+System+O-Ring+&+Gasket+Kit/06500/C0320.oap?year=2000&make=Dodge&model=Ram%2B2500&vi=1361999&keyword=a!s!c+o-rings

You probably have a small leak at the evaporator (heat exchanger inside) and/or the O-rings at the connections are 'dried out'. The best way would be to leak test the system, reclaim, repair, evacuate and recharge with the proper amount cost about $80-$? depending on what's leaking or for about $20+ you can top it off yourself. It's not hard to recharge/top up the A/C system, but best to use a pressure gauge so you can see if there is a problem with the expansion valve or compressor and all so not to over charge the system. If it's cool now you probably need 1 12oz can to top it off but with pressure gauges you can use the chart below to get close to max fill. Walmart sells recharge cans with low pressure gauge. http://www.walmart.com/c/kp/r134a-recharge-kits

You can see the solder pulled away from the pin connectors on the board from all of the hot/cold cycles. I re-solder them, put the case back together an seal it with clear RTV.

After I cut Volvo ABS control modules open for repair I reseal them with clear RTV. I've never had a problem with water infiltration.

So no lose of power or hard starting? Looks like you've taken care of fuel delivery and air intake should not be a problem. That leaves compression and camshaft timing/profile. Sounds almost like a gasser with a mild race cam.

Heated and cooled cup holders! You're right, it does have everything. I got to get me some of those. It's a clean looking ride. I can't own a car like that, I'd have to many speeding tickets. Have fun with it.

If it had been stolen here, 50 minuets later it would be in Tijuana driven by some "bato".