IBMobile

Looks like what you need to do is just reseal the area where the wires go through. I'd try this: clean thoroughly and clean again the area in question with brake clean and acetone, you want any fuel, oil and grease gone, rough surface with sand paper for better bond. Coat with J-B Weld™. Sets in 4-6 hr and cures in 15-24 hr. There's J-B® Kwick Weld™ that sets in 6 minutes and cures in 4-6 hr.

From: My Brain to Yours Wire Service Date Line: Washington D.C. By: IBMobile In the aftermath of July,14th truck terror attack in Nice, France the Congresswoman Ida Gutahafmine D-RI introduced a bill in the House of Representatives to register all large trucks and have a special license to operate them. Also proposed in the bill would be the removal of all assault trucks from all roads and fuel tanks limited to 10 gallons. When the Honorable Gutahafmine was informed that all trucks are now registered, operators have a commercial driver's license, there is no such thing as an assault truck and interstate commerce would come to a stand still with a 10 gallon limit , She was heard to say "never mind".

Looks the same as mine less the nick. If there is no or barely any movement of the shaft side to side with no oil leaks than don't worry about it.

HOW THE PROGRESIVES THINK HOW THE CONSERVATIVES THINK

If the compressor wheel touches the housing then the bushings/bearings are worn and that translates into excessive radial movement and the turbo needs to be rebuilt. Some rebuilders deem the core non-rebuild able if the compressor wheel gouges the housing. You can make a feeler gauge out of a strip of plastic sanded to the thickness you need. An oil jug and a coolant antifreeze side wall is .038-.034" and .017-.019" respectively. You'll need a micrometer or caliper for measuring. Axial end play is the movement of the shaft in and out. Don't worry about the axial end play for now.

I think you may have worn bearings and to much radial play. See no. 5 below.

You get what you pay for. Your truck has gone this long with out it, don't be in a hurry and get the good stuff.

part #R038M-P ⅜" line http://www.magnefinefilters.com/Magnefine-3-8-Magnetic-Inline-Power-Steering-Filter-R038M-P.htm I couldn't find the Autozone filter you've mention but just because they look the same doesn't mean they're the same inside.

There is no T fitting on a 2001 dodge power steering/hydroboost system. There are two separate return lines to the PS reservoir. The PS return line flows more fluid, that's where I'd put it. I didn't notice the bypass

They are rated for class III/IV hitches and I've never hear of one failing.

Power steering fluid flows under high pressure to and through the hydro boost to the power steering gear. When the brake peddle is applied the spool valve moves to allow pressurized PS fluid into the power chamber and still maintain pressurized fluid to the steering gear. The spool valve moves only about ¼" and very little PS fluid flows through it to the return line and back to the PS reservoir. If the return line from the hydro boost is blocked the brakes will self apply while the brake peddle is free. If the PS gear return line to the PS reservoir is blocked the pressure in the system will increase until the pressure relief valve opens. There will still be pressure to the hydro boost.

I'd put it in the power steering return line. There's more mechanical movement going on in the steering box so more metal than the hydro boost and if it plugs up you loose power steering and not the brakes.

I've used a plain hitch pin and clip for years with no problems. When you get to the camp site or home take it off an put the pin and hitch away together. They will stay clean, won't rust, and you know where they are. They're also cheaper than a locking style and no nut and bolt to fool with. http://www.walmart.com/search/?query=hich pin

I never use one because 1. it's illegal but seldom enforced to leave a hitch on with nothing attached here in CA, 2. another key I have to keep track of, 3. I also have shine bone trouble with them. 4. the hitch ball gets all rusted and if you grease it see 3.

In 2005 I bought 6- 6 gallon cases from Costco at just over $39/case. I still have 8 gallons left. When you find a good deal stock up if you can because nothing ever costs less. The oils in the back and that's a Jeep 2.5l motor I put together.

Don't for get about insurance on the rig. Since it's not yours, if it get damaged in any way, who pays for it? My auto policy covers any thing I tow, do you have that clause in coverage. What if you forget to secure something in the trailer and it get broken (see JAG1 above)?

HERESY

If the vehicle is used in a reasonable manner IE: daily driver or towing, I'd use the 8.8. If it is subjected to heavy duty use IE: mostly off road driving or snow plowing, I'd use the 10.9. If you just want the added insurance go with the 10.9.

Subjected to enough force an 8.8 will shear also, I've done it. A 10.9 bolt will be about 23% stronger. https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/materials-and-grades/bolt-grade-chart.aspx

Fuel pressure gauge first. Fuel Boss mechanical pump, 3/8" line and stock fuel filter/water separator with edge EZ and it runs just fine.

Thanks for the secret sauce recipe. I'll try it out first and let you know how it goes. Then feed some to JAG1 and crew when we're camping in October. Looks like I'll need a stock pot and paddle with that much sugar and juice.

Old grills are seasoned and give the best taste. I was looking at buying a grill/cooker like the one on the right in your pic. How do you like it?

Sorry to hear you didn't get to finalize the rebuild, so much time and effort. On the other hand you got to see the inner working of the steering box first hand and you gained that much more knowledge. I went from 265 to 245 and haven't noticed any difference other than the speedos off a bit and need to recalibrate it.