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Check your batteries. One might have a bad cell and the alternator is working overtime trying to keep up. I think @JAG1 had something like that happen to him.

#1 and #4 is the fuel draining off. I'd still start with replacing the sealing washers for the return line at the back of the head even though it shows good. Next put some new injectors in it. The truck most likely has some old injectors that are worn out. Try some RV275 injectors, they a mild up grade with new o-rings and washer when installing them.

Looks good, nice job mounting it to the bed frame. 250° is cooking, it will be interesting to see what it is now during a hard pull.

$45, no brainer, let them do it. If they break it or it leaks they own it.

Nice, are they powered, heated, sequential turn signals and have puddle light all for $160.00 a pair?

That's having a friend with benefits, nice.

I had a great time at Camp Mopar1973Man RV Resort and Truck Repair. Camp sites are spread out for social distancing with lots of elbow room. We even have electricity If your truck breaks down there is a covered work area with tools. There is even an on site mechanic if I need one. And the people are all friendly and the fees are reasonable. I highly recommend this resort to anyone traveling through.

I'd be looking at what @hdpwipmonkey said.

Amp draw test. https://www.hagerty.com/media/maintenance-and-tech/measuring-current/ A cheap Harbor Freight multimeter will work. https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/diagnostic-testing-scanning/7-function-digital-multimeter-63759.html

The distance from the alternator to the right battery with a circuit breaker/fuse in line is just over 24" ( 2' ); 4 awg will carry 180 amps 72" ( 6' ) safely.

Heater Treater for heat/AC blend door. I installed one in @JAG1 truck two weeks ago in conjunction with the heater core and AC evaporator replacement. Note: when installing a heater treater, before removing the dash and HVAC housing, turn the ignition key to on and set the heater controller knob to the middle position. This will make putting the case back together easier and the motor will be indexed. http://heatertreater.net/dodge-ram-95-02

My VP44 took a dump, with out warning, while driving down a long grade at 55 MPH; the engine just died. The control board went bad with just over 90k on it. It was the original VP and there was never a yellow anti-tampering tag on it.

One trip I took the VP44 went bad, Mopar1973man had one delivered to his house and we installed it at a campground near by. Another time, in Moab, U,T the crank sensor went bad and found one at an O'Reilly. This last time had the right front wheel bearings go bad on the way to Mopar1973Man's house. Mike picked up a hub for me in Lewiston, ID at an O'Reilly and I had all the tools with me except for the socket for the spindle nut, Mike had one. So, if something brakes when your on the road you can get the parts in a day or two and may be have the tools or get them also to fix it yourself. Be safe, have fun, and enjoy the adventure.

Info like this should be written up as an article so this good info is easily found.

I would. It would give a idea of the valve and ring health. If low compression is found then do the leak down test on that cylinder to determine the problem.

Only if they took their truck to Clown Garage. By the look of it and what you said that clown broke it, "welded" it, and hoped you would never see it. If he kept on doing repair work for you no one else would see it either, And you get to drink beer while doing it.

Course ground black pepper good for over a year in a Toyota on Guam.

Never mind fooling with the unknown and make up your own wire harness; that will take the guess work out of what color wire goes to what. The article below may help you make a harness. @dripleyI've been in JAG1's driveway for the past 10 days redoing the roof on my 5er with him while I redid his heater core and AC evaporator in his work truck. He has wifi but where I'm located on the driveway it is really slow.

Write what your going to get on the back of your hand next time. For lighting you can get power from the blub for the ash tray. You can run all the wiring through the rubber grommet on the left side of the fire wall. A few extra feet of wire for some applications but no drilling, no rust.

This is true. People have to evaluate the condition of their HVAC box and ability to perform the task then take action accordingly. For some trucks, the driveway queens, just pulling the heat core is all that is needed. Trucks that are in forest or farm conditions all the time will most likely need a complete remove, clean, and refit. Yes, I remember @flagmanruss. He lived out in the woods of Coventry, RI,

@JAG1 and I pulled the HVAC box this past week. What a PIA. Your evaporator doesn't look that bad. The evaporator was blocked about 15%, not real bad. If all you need to replace is the heater core then just replace that with a core that has swivel tubes, that's what we used, then clean the evaporator, ,install those Genos cabin filters like @Tractorman posted and call it good.

From the FSM is for check engine light and trouble code (P code) self erasure with 40 drive cycles. Now the condition the OP and I are addressing is resetting the monitors not erasing the p codes.

This show the voltage and amperage on the blue wire from the PCM to the alternator at idle with the headlights on with high beam, the heater fan on high speed, and radio playing; that's a 4.5 amp power draw. If the load on the alternator load increase there is a chance the 5 amp fuse will blow so I sized mine to 7.5 amp.