IBMobile

with both above.

I'm glad to hear those mods are working for you. I have a couple more I've been thinking about but haven't written them up yet. A stage two. Below is an excerpt from an article I wrote about the Ram Second Gen. Repairing A/C system I am not going to tell you how to change a part but give some helpful hints to avoid the pitfalls. Have all the parts and tools on hand ready to go. The faster you open and close the system the less of a moisture problem. If you have to purge the refrigerant from the system and it can’t be captured, crack open the low and high side valves. If the valves are opened to much refrigerant oil will be forced out by the escaping 134A. You won’t know how much is lost and it makes a mess. If you are replacing the compressor due to a catastrophic failure replace the orifice tube, accumulator and also the condenser. A lot of debris can get stuck in the tubes of the condenser and flushing may not clear it out. The cost of an aftermarket one is cheap and you are not worried “did I get it all out”. You will need to drain the oil out of the old compressor into the measuring cup and make note of the amount. Discard old oil. Now, drain the oil out of the new compressor then add the amount, in fresh oil, that was drained from the old compressor plus 2oz for the new accumulator and 1oz for the new condenser to the new compressor. Always replace the o-rings when working on an open system. They are a possible point of future leakage, and it’s cheap and easy to do. All O-rings need to be coated with A/C mineral oil NOT PAG oil. PAG oil is hydroscopic and will cause corrosion on the outside of the hose fittings and O-rings. When evacuating the system let the vacuum pump run for at least an hour, the longer the better. This is turning any liquid water into a vapor by causing water to boil. Water will boil at 70°F when the vacuum is at or greater than 29.18inHg. The vapor has to make its way out of the system to the low and high side ports. This is why it takes so long to evacuate the system. When done evacuating the system close the valves on the A/C gauge manifold and wait. If the gauges move then there is still a large leak in the system. A small leak cannot be found this way because only 15psi is being exerted inward when the system normally runs with a static pressure of 80+psi and a running high side pressure of 170+psi pushing out. When first adding 134A to the system from a single use 12oz can the low side pressure will jump up to 60+psi and then come down, depending how much refrigerant is in the system, to 20-45psi. The can will also become cold due to the pressure drop in the can and the refrigerant boiling. When the can is no longer cool or cold there is no more refrigerant in the can or going into the system. To expedite the charging time jumper the plug for the low pressure switch this will keep the compressor clutch from cycling off. The refrigerant will enter the system faster when the can of 134A is placed in a container of warm water. The 134A turns to a gas in the can faster due to the heat of the warm water. Only 134A in its gas state should enter the system, adding liquid 134A before the compressor can destroy it. The A/C system requires 32oz of 134A for a full charge. When using a single use 12oz can you’ll need 3 cans. After adding 2 cans (which is 24oz) weigh the third can on the kitchen scale and make note of the weight. When adding the remaining 8oz (2/3 of the can) check the weight of the can occasionally. When the can is 8oz lighter you’re done.

Fastest Chicken in the East

This is what I use to "fix" my cracked dash. https://www.jbweld.com/product/clearweld-syringe

I bought one last month at 1-800-Radiator & A/C part number H-6317 for $30.00. or https://www.autozone.com/cooling-heating-and-climate-control/a-c-hose-assembly/four-seasons-a-c-orifice-tube-56828/901879_621250_2051 It's doing great. Good firm shifts up and down even with torque convertor locked up. @Mopar1973Man said " I've rode in @IBMobile truck with 4:10 gears and 245s tires that is a quick truck. Then with @Dynamic built transmission very impressive power."

It's good that you're replacing the condenser, it gets full of crud, the metering orifice, crud also, and the accumulator. The metering orifice is crimped in the A/C pipe that goes between the condenser and accumulator, behind the right battery, so the whole pipe has to be replaced.. That leaves only the evaporator and 2 hoses to back flush. You can get a loaner A/C flush kit from AutoZone and buy a quart of flushing solvent. Go easy with the solvent, you can blow through it fast, and just put into the container the amount you want to use to flush that particular part. https://www.autozone.com/tools-and-equipment/loan-a-tools/air-conditioning-loaner-rental-tools

I think I can see Canada.

So, you're looking for #1in the link below. https://www.mymoparparts.com/oem-parts/mopar-transmission-mount-bracket-52019603ab?c=Zz1lbmdpbmUtbW91bnRpbmcmcz1lbmdpbmUtbW91bnRpbmcmbD0xMCZuPUFzc2VtYmxpZXMgUGFnZSZhPWRvZGdlJm89cmFtLTI1MDAmeT0yMDAxJnQ9YmFzZSZlPTUtOWwtbDYtZGllc2Vs

If had other car makes do this and it was the key fob but I think @JAG1 had something like this happen on one of his trucks and it was switch. One way to tell if it's the fob or lock cylinder switch is to leave the fob at home the next time you drive the truck. If it still does it then it's the lock cylinder switch; if not then it be the fob.

P-pump is not for me. I'd rather have a root cannel; faster and less painful.

Buy one, Rock Auto, $12.71, done.

Both the odometer and the trip odometer information is stored in the instrument cluster memory.

With a hammer and drift, put a "dimple" in the wastegate actuator where it's hitting the oil filter housing. The actuator diaphragm is in the middle of the housing and won't be affected.

Here's the diagram for wiring in a relay. The yellow/white wire should have power when you first turn the ignition on or bump the starter. Test with a volt meter or test light. If the #30 terminal is jumped to #87 the fuel pump should run.

You can get the RV275 injectors for less than $400with the washers and connecting tube o-rings. https://www.dieselautopower.com/bosch-new-injector-rv275-marine-300-40hp-0432193635 Are you going to put them in yourself? If you do this will help.

Ya, and I paid $33,000 for my first house in California. I've been looking and they are all $500,000 plus now. Go figure.

Check your batteries. One might have a bad cell and the alternator is working overtime trying to keep up. I think @JAG1 had something like that happen to him.

#1 and #4 is the fuel draining off. I'd still start with replacing the sealing washers for the return line at the back of the head even though it shows good. Next put some new injectors in it. The truck most likely has some old injectors that are worn out. Try some RV275 injectors, they a mild up grade with new o-rings and washer when installing them.

Looks good, nice job mounting it to the bed frame. 250° is cooking, it will be interesting to see what it is now during a hard pull.

$45, no brainer, let them do it. If they break it or it leaks they own it.

Nice, are they powered, heated, sequential turn signals and have puddle light all for $160.00 a pair?

That's having a friend with benefits, nice.

I had a great time at Camp Mopar1973Man RV Resort and Truck Repair. Camp sites are spread out for social distancing with lots of elbow room. We even have electricity If your truck breaks down there is a covered work area with tools. There is even an on site mechanic if I need one. And the people are all friendly and the fees are reasonable. I highly recommend this resort to anyone traveling through.

I'd be looking at what @hdpwipmonkey said.