IBMobile
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Everything posted by IBMobile
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While you have it apart the accumulator should be replaced along with the orifice tube and all the 0-rings. The O-rings should be coated with AC mineral oil and not PAG oil before installation. You will need to add 2 ounces of PAG 100 oil to the system for the replaced evaporator and 2 more if you replace the accumulator. You may want to replace the fan motor; it's old and tired and dido for the heater/AC blend door coupler. https://heatertreater.net/dodge-ram-95-02 -
Thanks and get him over here.
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Do you have to cut the stock down pipe and weld the new Banks pipe to it further down by the bell housing?
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I remember that grade, thought it would never end. How was the down pipe to fit?
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Is anyone using a Banks exhaust brake and if so what do you think of it? I'm looking for a little help in down hill braking but not something that will overwhelm the transmission. The Banks is less expensive than a PAC or BD E-brake but need to splice in there down pipe. The truck and trailer are under 15,000 pounds.
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He didn't make it!
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Check for vacuum at the hose at the right out side fire wall.
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if the truck is running then it's a Vacuum problem.
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Do you have air flow through the defrost or floor vents? If no, then the fan motor is running backwards.
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Do you have air flow through the defrost or floor vents? If no, then the fan motor is running backwards.
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No, that is not wiring for the OD; That is under the dash next to the HVAC vacuum lines and may go to the HVAC control panel but twisted wires are used in the airbag system . You need to strip back the cover and see what are the wire colors.
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That's to low, that is stock pressure with factory elbow. When I installed a boost elbow that came with the Edge EZ the turbo developed 24PSI max, with an adjustable boost controller max turbo output is 30PSI. Try clamping the pressure hose to the waste gate and see if there is an increase in pressure.
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There is no switch on the clutch peddle; only a switch at the brake peddle is shown in the FSM wire diagrams section 8W-33-1.
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How about adding a pull chain switch?
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More like rabbits. I have a couple like that in the main area but there is a master switch under an overhead wall cupboard that can be used also to operate them. 5th wheels have a higher ceiling/roof line because of those 2-3 steeps to go up to the bedroom.
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Check these out. You might have to travel ; there are a lot of places in Riverside County. https://www.autopartswarehouse.com/?msclkid=88c2a9cab849130d29fcf7aba548e682&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=[ADL] [Brand] Brand Terms (Exact)&utm_term=auto parts warehouse&utm_content=Auto Parts Warehouse&gclid=CP2U_6zVg-gCFaKUxQIdYX4Mbw&gclsrc=ds https://www.lkqpickyourpart.com/
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When working with seat covers it some times helps to lay them out in the sun or inside a hot vehicle. They'll heat up and have a little stretch and give.
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Or plug your tire size in and get other info too.
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Here are a couple of sites; one for tire size comparison and another for gear ratio changes with tire size. https://www.discounttire.com/learn/tire-size-calculator https://tiresize.com/gear-ratio-calculator/
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When I got my truck it was bone stock. The first thing I did was put gauges on it to see what I was dealing with. A draw straw is a tube installed in the fuel tank for fuel pick up so ths stock pick up is not used. The factory banjo fittings restrict fuel flow under high demand. The kit eliminates that restriction. There is a wide rang of thoughts here on which tuner to use. I have an Edge EZ I bought in 2005 and with the Bosch RV275 injectors gives me all the power I need to tow about 9,000 LB. Those 50HP are the next size up from the RV275 for power.
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Who you calling a yayhoo?
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No, the grid heaters both come on with the "wait to start" light" which is 180amps. After starting they cycle one on and one off every few seconds which is only 90amps at a time.
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For what it's worth, RockAuto visited my profile on Thursday 2/27/2020 at 2:03 PM.
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Good point. I have it something like that in the article I wrote up last night.
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PCM Ground Splice Repair It's not hard and took very little time to do. NOTE: Do this after the other modifications have been done or you will lose the ECM, VP and grid heater grounds. You need: 2 10-12 gauge butt connectors 2 1/4 heat shrink tube 2" long Rosin core solder 140 watt solder gun (Weller) or small butane torch 1 roll of electrical tape Razer knife Wire cutters Wire striper Remove the air cleaner housing this will open up the whole area to work in. No need to disconnect the batteries, just unplug the gray connector at the ground wires of the right (AUX) battery. The other gray connector may have already been disconnected when the ground wires were relocated to the back of the timing cover if a W-T . Disconnect the 3 plugs at the PCM Cut and strip the 8 gauge wire then cut the connector off the 10 gauge wire and strip it back to fit the butt connector. This is the connection with the cove off. This is splice #S109 that the grounds for the ECM, PCM, VP44, grid heater relay and data link connector. Slide the heat shrink on to the wire were it won't be affected by the heat of soldering. Remove any plastic covering on the butt connector; insert the wires into the connector and solder. Let cool then cove with the heat shrink. At the PCM find the two 14 gauge black with tan stripe wires. They go up into the split wire cover about 10" that's where you'll find splice #S126 There are two 14 gauge black with tan strip wires coming down to the connector. One is the ground for the data link connector and the other is not used. Repeat the cut, strip and solder process as above. When done it should look like this. There are no warranties implied or expressed. Written by: J. Daniel Martin AKA IBMobile 2/29/2020
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