IBMobile

I carry a bottle of aspirin. When I brake down I take two and call my self in the morning. I also carry a cellphone, a AAA card with RV towing for 200 miles and a credit card with a big limit. A lot of places I travel through have no cell service like when I broke down north of Riggins, ID and the Idaho County Sheriff gave me a ride into town to make calls. As for tools, I carry basic tools to replace hoses, belts, starter motor, injection pump along with a test light, digital multimeter, and a OBDII code reader. Which mechanic to call, that's a crapshoot.

Towing 8klbs on the highway I let it shift into overdrive and see trans temps at 65°-71°C. When going up long grades down shift to 3ed and stay at 55 this will keep exhaust temps down. These trucks ride a lot better with weight in the back. Stop and go traffic or going up hills in 1st - 2ed gear the torque convertor can quickly drive up the fluid temp to 100°C. A few weeks ago @JAG1 had me follow him on some back hilly roads while I was towing and the trans stayed in 1st and 2ed; I saw my trans temp hit 121°C.

Wire diagram says "front of engine" and back probe the wires/connectors.. Always check the basics first before condemning the component.

That's just the language the truck speaks. A lot of the European car makers use it. I have a CRP123, my Matco reader does a better job on the Ram trucks. Well, you and I know that an intermittent problem that takes care of its self is a pain to diagnose. Try this, the next time it happens on the road, with out restarting the engine, safely pull over to the side and check for power at the VP, OBD2 connector, ECM, and PCM. You can also do a wire harness shake test with the engine running; this would help in finding a bad splice/loose connection. The other thigs to check are the auto shutdown relay, the fuel pump (VP44) relay and the grounds at the front of the engine (G125) and the ground between the left headlamp assembly and battery on the left inner fender (G100)

Very nice and good luck with it. Don't let JAG1 near it. Do you have a factory trailer hitch with a 7 pin connector? There should be a factory connector for a brake controller under the dash above the and behind the park brake peddle assembly. If the trailer brake controller they gave you will plug into it you'll be golden. You might have to get a connector to make it work. A couple of weeks ago I took one out of JAG1's work truck.

Use to see that all the time here in the San Diego area. Now they just jump the fence and yell "asylum". They get a court date with a judge in 2 years. Do you think they show up?

Not that I know of. If the clutch is coming on when under hard load going up hill an turning and off at the top then it's working ok.

Is your radiator cooling fan on a clutch or electric?

I wore my hip out from River Dancing @BBHD yours is just mean luck.

I know a three way switch won't work with this set up but if you splice in an on/off switch in the orange/black wire at the PCM connector B11 would keep the lock up from happening when the switch is in the off (open circuit) position.

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Well I've towed the 5er over 2000 mile with this off and on problem. It's mostly on again now. Tomorrow I start the last leg of this trip with a 400 mile pull from Bridgeport, CA to San Marcos. When I get there I'll have all the tools to tear into this problem.

I had it rebuilt about 50k ago without any major upgrades. We come up here twice a year. Ten days around the second week in May and ten days at the beginning of October. @015point9 ,Thanks for thinking about a good pie shop for us. JAG1 one said he thinks he knows about the pie shop on the west side of Crater Lake but we had come down rt 97 on the east side.

@JAG1 , @IBMOBILE-JEN and I left JAG1 house over a week ago and are now camping at Mono Village in the Bridgeport, CA area with a bunch of other guys that are regular campers with us. I've been towing for thousands of miles with the RV 275 injectors, Edge EZ set on the second of three levels, and the waste gate actuator set to open at 30 PSI with no smoke and lots of power for pulling the 8,000 lb 5th wheel.

All battery terminals are clean and tight. I haven't checked the battery but will do tomorrow before we leave for Crater Lake National Park. All connections look good and mods have been done but one never knows.

Drove another 380 mi and no problems, trans shifted fine. What the heck.

Well, after towing the 5er for 788 mi the problem has reared it's head once more. Pulled into Mt Shasta, CA and after unhooking the 5er went into town where, this time, at times the transmission would not shift out of 1st and other times no 2-3 shift. It would never shift into 3ed. This morning, after an extensive road test, I found that if the truck is put in park, turned off, restarted, and put in drive the transmission will up shift normally but once stopped for say a red light, and accelerate again there is no 1-2 shift. When this happens I can shift the transmission from drive to neutral, while going 10-15 mph, then back to drive and the upshifting becomes normal. This afternoon we went for a drive and about the first 10 mi it was having problems. The next 40 plus miles the transmission shifted fine. Tomorrow we'll be heading to the Portland area and see how it goes..

He met her in Ontario when he was riding his bike.

@kzimmer, I will be installing a different type of grid heater control on @JAG1 truck next weekend and doing a write up on that if you can wait and see what it is.

This is how I'd do it. Pull pan. Remove rear main housing and seal. Clean everything. Install seal housing and seal. Install oil pan with new gasket. Use gray RTV if you must.

You will find them in the articles section/ 24 valve 2ed generation/ engine/ OBDII error codes P1291, No temp rise seen from grid heaters. Do you have your grid heaters disconnected?

Keep it simple. Doing an adjustment is a lot easier than doing a lot of rewiring. If that doesn't work you might try this.

When I was talking to the trans rebuilder about the governor solenoid and the problems with the transmission he mentioned that he has come across a few transmission filters causing problems. The drain back problem started after I serviced the trans and a 1,000 mi trip towing the 5er. I thought maybe the problem was induced during the service and it took that long for the problem to show itself. This weekend I pulled the pan and did an inspection. I checked the bands, installed a new filter and fluid; then road tested every day this week with no problems. So what was wrong? I have no idea but I'll be leaving this weekend on a 2,000 mi 3 week trip towing the 5er. I'll know if there is a problem by the end of this trip.

Remember, if a salesman's lips are moving at best he shows his ignorance at worst his out right lying. If I don't fix my wife's car by the second time she tells me there's a problem she threatens to take it to the deal.

Here it is