JAG1

I can have new cases made if you need one let me know the ideal size etc.

A good volt meter can tell you which is ground, but disconnect the batteries first and set the VM to OHMs. Touch one probe to the frame and the other probe in the end of each wire. The ground will have Zero Ohms but double check too cause some OHMs can show up just from dirt on the frame etc. PLEASE , anyone correct me If I'm wrong Oh yeah, theres another ground going from the PCM to the firewall. I redid that one with heavy gauge marine wire. for better protection.

Dripley, did you stomp on in at your dusty jobsites too?

I can't have that car, I would turn into a road demon with that thing and every day the cops would be just waitin' for me.

No tank vacuum issue? Check for AC noise confusing the computer. Check for good ground connections everywhere Just a few to check anyhow.

Michael do you think you can help some of us in any way with the ecm after looking into it? Perhaps build a simpler more reliable set up?

Good subject here. I like learning about this, never knew it could be so bad.

That's incredible. thanks for explaining. Now I know why second gens are holding value.

You and me are about the same miles mines clean too. Have you checked the alternator ground bracket for resistance? I good ground there helps reduce PCM confusion from AC noise..

Im' sorry I have to ask, but what happened there? Something about smog set up and long idles Can someone spell it out for me? Thanks in advance.

Thanks for the vote of confidence in my list. I'm a light weight electrical guy. Have you found any corrosion or tainted connections? The alternator grounds thru the mounting bracket. Being that it is painted I got the volt meter out and set it to OHMS and checked for resistance from alt housing to a clean unpainted surface on the engine. I found a noticeable degree of resistance on the meter. I was surprised as my engine is very clean and still looks new with only 85k miles. After doing some reading about the importance in have a good alt ground helping to reduce AC noise and a general betterment of the DC system I installed a no. 8 wire and small lug terminal attached to an alternator housing bolt and back to the passenger battery ground. I don't know if it has helped but I know its a better ground and better protection for the more sensitive electronic circuits aboard. At least the batteries can do a better job of absorbing harmful AC noise. Another thing I've noticed is I don't have any white powder corrosion on the battery terminals any longer, which used to be aggressive. I wish I could be more helpful anyway.

I like Mikes Stodgey attitude. The best filter for diesel engine oil is a centrifuge although the filter above looks to be well made.

Sometime, we need tractor pic I kinda' thought so

That tractor is nice yard art, needs to be parked on the lawn. That would be a pretty site

Okay, when things go like this I have to try things on the list that's in square one/ back to basics. Batteries have good clean connections Low AC voltage emanating from the alternator when running PCM grounding good clean to firewall Pass battery to PCM ground good clean and tight. check the factory clip connection laying around the wheel well. Take apart ground connections and look for corrosion. Alternator grounding well thru its mounting bracket to engine block ECM well grounded to block Take off the ground to the engine block, the heavy cable going down below, and clean the lug and mate surface Theer might be two of them on the 24 valves.

Is it possible to coat the sensors with a shot of lacquer so the grease won't interfere? I've never looked at the sensors so maybe a silly question. BTW, Never thought of blowing the grease out of my teeth after a burger.

I'm glad all is well and you got it done. I need to do the same think but I'm hesitant, greenhorn and gun shy about it.

Does that mean the air bag was set off at one time or can it detect bumper benders too? Never heard of 'Ethernet cable networks', how does that come into play, not a tv network? Hope I'm not asking a lengthy explanation on that one.

It's my guess that it could be. I'd like to know what the 'ccd' means. Is it in the owners manual?

Atc, you are very good about getting right after this and the way you describe what you've done is very clear. There must be , and I'm guessing here, some connection near the gauge being sent by the test phase that shows it's good but then when on actual gauge use there may be a different conductor that has a bad connection possibly. If I had this problem I would wonder about bypassing/ trying to bypass the gauge only and wire up my own gauge so the overhead still works.

I do it an inexpensive way by having the AD 100 relocated on the frame, 1/2'' lines and ball shut off valves either side of the pump and big filter. Then I carry an extra factory pump in the tool box if I need it to get home. The ball valves allow me to change the pump or the filter without loosing prime or draining fuel all over me changing things out. I hope you get it fixed real good and I know the 2stroke is better for it.

Yeah,

Since the overhead is unaffected and shows correct wouldn't the problem exist with the gauge or it's wiring then?

He did say that he replaced the senderalready you guys Could be the gauge on the dash. What does the overhead say? Does it reflect MPG and miles left before it needs refueling like my overhead display does?

like when the question was asked , 'what are they doing with all the lubricity they stole from our fuel?...... someone said years ago they use it to check your prostate.