JAG1

Hey Dave I even fixed it.

The alternator grounds thru the mounting bracket. My truck had some resistance on that ground because of the paint on the bracket so make sure a good ground there and make sure of the heavy ground cables bolted to the block are good also. Not sure of much help here but, good to check anyhow. BTW, check the PCM ground going to the firewall and factory ground connector on the passenger battery.

Thanks Dave for the help. Yeah, I own that whole mountain valley I'm standing in front of

Is it okay if I set up my mail box next to yours. Number one squatter here....

Front tie downs are made by HappiJack

I have a rubber mat on the bottom. To help guide the loading process I have plastic centering guides that can either rub against or help me see if I'm centered by staying within a quarter inch of the guides. The guides also help keep the camper centered and stop the movement on rough roads. I mean that dang thing can get awful crooked in the bed on some bad roads. I think the straps would be okay but I think the wide 2'' straps are what you want because I don't think much of the skinny ones with the small ratcheting mechanism. The front ties should be angled forward and the rear ties should be angled toward the back.

As far as the loft goes inside the pole building you should use 6x12 douglas fir beams if the posts are 12 feet apart. Use minimum sixe 2x8's on 16'' centers to the beams with 2x8 hangers and teco nails. the 2x8 spanning the 12 feet is maxed out code wise so you should use all number one grade or go with 2x10's instead. Are you planning on pouring a foundation for the addions to the house?

That's me That's meMy truck, camper and shopMy first gen flatbedWhere I want to be at all times I messed up cause it kept loading forever. Hey at least I got a beginning. Thanks you cummins heads

''Go to folder that has picture in it'' .... My pictures load into my desktop so how do I have desktop and the forum/ posting up at the same time? I know........ it's got to be so easy that by now you guys are going sheeesh!

For your camper you won't need frame mount tie downs. Just go with the ones that bolt thru the front of the bed. Be sure and get the ones that have a bar across the inside front that goes from tie down to tie down as it not only reinforces but acts as a stop when loading the camper, assuming the camper has rubber bumper stoppers. I just cannot remember the name of the co. that makes them. On the rear you can extend the square tubing of the receiver hitch going/ pointing side to side. Just find sq. tubing that fits inside and bolt in...... and place eyelets at the end to hook the tie downs.

I like the advice.... only trouble is I can get that pic of the Vise out of my head! That's a nice bench vise

Only thing I don't like about mine is loading and unloading. When the jacks start showing some age it could only take one to fail and you could get hurt, killed or ruin your truck. I don't like that part. On canyon corners it does real well with sway bars and camper package. You can go fast and it starts to sway but stops almost immediately. It got even better when I added air bags. I usually drive slower on back roads that no one hardly ever uses and love the back country/ old USA experience along the way. I usually drive slower than Mike and love that there is no one around hardly. On a soft side camper I think you can still put it away even when the fabric is wet in a storm but, sooner than later you have to dry it so no mold starts.

I get about 15 mph with my hardside driving like Michael Nelson 3400 lbs loaded. I like a wee bit more sound proofing but where you can get into more remote places shouldn't be an issue.

Daniel.... you sure are pickey

Wanted everyone to know that the newer premium Line-X has good reports. It doesn't grey or get dull in the sun. I think it's going to look pretty good.

I thought about the rust too. Mike is probably meaning a lite surface scratch. I thought about some blue tape.

Are you saying repaired without finding a new ECM? kind of like doing the voltage regulator mod?

Yeah don't like when I turn around to go get what I forgot ,then can't remember what it was I was after.

Dave, I think you might have a mess later in the prep process. How about waxing? Dang, I better learn soon how to post pics.... you guys will want a look and I'll want to hear what you think. I saw cleanser used once, It looked pretty good.

You got that right if you don't wax once a year she looks like she's a grandma. And the flat surface shows more than sides. Joe, Thanks for the advice but, learned long time ago me and spray paint on large areas don't do so well

That's Ok when/ if we finally do meet... I'll use the sander on yer head Just kiddin' Bud. Did I hurt your feelings about your forgetery being so strong over the L/P power? I was hoping to get laughs on that one is all Boss.

Thanks Mike. I hoping its not devaluing the truck doing the Line X. $600 to prep and repaint at a body shop. Half that for Line X

My fiberglass camper dripped Gelcoat residue all over the hood of my Black 2nd Gen nd won't come out of the paint. So Off I go to get Line X premium applied. Line X dealer wants me to remove the hood but I'm concerned how to remove the hood and not cause a crease when removing. Do you guys remove the front two bolts off first with a temporary board supporting the hood? I can see it maybe lowering just a bit while unbolting and causing a wrinkle. Do you loosen all 4 bolts first while supported and then proceed? Thanks a bunch for any thoughts.

Dave, Don't understand, are you telling me to stop hijacking the thread or something? Do I detect a note of Anger/ tired of my posts? Not like the usual Dave I know???? Hope I didn't say something to make you mad... I see you as a friend nothing else.

I like it, wood be good also to have some rubber bumper stoppers to the front where it bumps the bed. When you drive under you'll know when to stop by hitting softly.