JAG1

Any problems with condensation build up inside a 55 gallon drum of new engine oil? I got a deal on some left over CI-4 rated Dello 400 15-40 but wonder about contamination.

Nice shop. Did you lay a new floor or did you paint where the red truck is parked?

Good ole American know how.

I think some are raised in the dessert and don't get much water

Wishing a very nice Thanksgiving to everyone...... so nice to have 4 days off.

It's been that way for a long time, also a manufactured home has to have insulated piping all the way from stove thru roof and on up. Stove built like that has to made of titanium how else would you move it?!

Mobile homes are supposed to have the cold air intake Mike. That is a code special to manufactured homes.. Anthony, dont modify a Stove designated for a manufactured home, that was a mistake that I suggested earlier. Could run that CAR to the outside.

Anthony I sent you a message

Be careful what you wish for .....you all might get slammed. Might need a 7 foot dia. culvert in front of your door to go out my trucks down there somewhere'

Was just reading that there are several years on Mt Hood in Oregon that start slow and Ski lifts runs cant open till after Thanksgiving. It was 07 and 08 things did not get going right away but turned out to be very big snow years.

Thanks for the link. I do hope winter comes with a vengeance as the normal balancing from extreme deficit is due to show. Keep the faith.

I hope we do get a very active weather pattern this winter. So far in Oregon it seems we are getting back to normal with lots of rain and a bit earlier snowfall started up on our mountain where my job is. I'll bet you guys with all the snow just get used to it like an everyday thing. Thais like our rain, something you get so used to you don't notice it much.

That's good. They do make a rubber coating that goes over electrical tape after the wires are wrapped for protection.

You did what you had to & glad you got it done. I like the shrink tubing over the connectors but absolutely hate it when I forget and think the shrink tubing goes on after I made the connection

Thanks all, I don't think I'm going to worry about it anymore because at any rate it is still less expensive to fix what I've got. You know how it is.... a guy tends to dream about a newer truck when an excuse from high expense like this comes up, but it's my work rig and has the right utility bed and boxes which I'd have to switch over to another truck. Thanks Dripley for the comparison... that helped a lot. Nick, I think there is a way to pull codes out of a 1st gen but the truck is so basic I don't think it would help much. Them 1st gen's.... when something goes wrong you pop the hood and go,''it's that right there''. Of course Mike ,you know, can just about do that on the Apollo rocket

Source Automotive does good work and I trust those guys, but, for some reason they do not rebuild the 5 speeds themselves. They are saying $3400 bucks to R&R and have a rebuilder do the rebuild portion. This includes a new rear crank seal (been leaking for a long time) but no new clutch. They said that the price is on the high side to get everything covered till we get in there to see what is wrong. They also said I should not put this kind of money in such an old truck with over 400 K miles that thy wonder how the heck I got that much out of a stock trans anyway. Any advice or experience would greatly be appreciated

Recheck your wiring too You don't want to chance burning any new wiring. I'm glad you are getting this figured out with others as I'm commuting a total of 3 hours a day plus putting in the usual 8 hrs. One very important thing about fuses. If one blows don't go changing the fuse size because then your wiring becomes the fuse and that's expensive/ time consuming to change out.

My Raptor pump is getting weak just about like that also. When It was about two years old the pressure had to be adjusted back up to 19. Others said the same thing. The older Raptors had a screen that was on the inlet side that would plug up. Pull that out if yours has this. It is the proper set up is to have the pump run by the batteries switched thru a relay by the ECM, but another important aspect is to have an accessible/ changeable filter on the suction side of the pump to stop sediment damage to the pump and keep it clean. I had to drop the tank to get the intank screens removed from the fuel module as they do get clogged over time. That way the prefilter could do it's work. Also in the module is a small plastic cylinder shaped piece on the bottom of the draw straw, take that screen out also.

Only talking about a little AC noise he he he

I just learned something about Ethylene Glycol verses Propylene Glycol that is used in the RV antifreeze. Check the ingredients for the Propylene Glycol not Ethylene because the alchohol type will dry out rubber seals and some types of plastic plumbing while the propylene type lubricates rubber seals and does not damage plumbing pipes. It costs a little more but well worth it.

Just cut an old extention cord for wire that works

I don't know if it will damage anything but, can you disconnect the pump from the factory ECM connection and wire the pump directly to the battery? That way you can run the truck longer, have fuel pressure and also check the ECM Wire connector for constant voltage while running. I don't think it will damage anything that way as lots of guys have wired their lift pumps directly to the battery on a manual switch. It's not good to leave it that way though because you can burn up your VP if you ever forget to turn on the lift pump.

I only want to say that you should have constant 12-14 volts going to the pump after the truck is running. Voltage will fluctuate if the grid heaters are cycling so wait till the grids stop cycling and then see what you got. But most importantly get the lift pump powered off the batteries before you ruin a $1,000 ECM with a potentially bad lift pump that causes too much draw.

I was told to do partial fluid changes more frequent because it's better for the trans to not shock it with full flushes. Don't know how that comes into any reasoning, but, that's what I've been doing. I like the deep dish pan for the frequent use of the drain plug. Then I also like having a trans temp gauge.