JAG1

One guy I read about said to squirt wd 40 or any spray oil in the bottom of the second gen doors. Somehow he got it to puddle inside the door by squirting down inside a bunch. That's cause he said there is no place for all the moisture to drain/escape at the door bottoms. Said he did this every fall.

I just use mini sticks of dynamite. Tie three of 'em together around the BJ, lite it and run

I was loosing prime with tank drain back once. I was too chicken to tighten the factory fuel filter cap, thought It would break or crack being made of plastic. I read to torque the cap down to 25 ft. pounds and my problem went away. I've also read you can have an injector tight enough to not leak fuel but still allow air to get drain back and loss of prime.

Can you walk into any parts stores and ask for it or do you have to order it on line?

The difference I see when jumping into the CJ-4 oil (used it only three times now) is not as smooth running like it's struggling to get better lubrication on cold starts but, the worse thing was seeing the metal grindings and chips magnetized to the drain plug magnet. It surprised me as I have never seen that before in almost 20 years of using the CI oil. I just don't trust it till I do more reading on the subject.

That smell is to attract the female Prius but since the Cummins is the dominant gene that's why you see so many Cummins trucks

Some excellent information on here. I think it's helped everyone.

Wow cool Dave. Thanks very much. Saves me a lot of time/ frustration since age isn't kind dealing with with such tiny parts and little room.

Dave, how is it on your lower BJ's? Did say you have a permanant zirk doesn't need to be removed?

I hope you guys are right. I find going to chevron downtown, a real pain. I thank you guys for the motivation to do more reading on the subject. Bob's the oil guy had an essay out on how wrong the CJ -4 was when first out.. So hoping.... and thank all for this interesting discussion/ information, esp. the OP. Way I understand is the CI-4's were discontinued for road use for reasons coming from EPA.

James, CI 4 used to be the only recommended oil for my 1st gen when I first bought it almost 20 yrs ago. Now with over 400k it's still running as good as that first day only doing batteries, brakes and one pitman arm. Mike, I cannot trust my memory except I know you said get the CI-4 at the distributors cause no regular store sells it with the new CJ-4 that had just come out.

Mike I remember a pic of your garage, years ago saying you go to Chevron oil for the 5 gallon buckets of CI-4 from Chevron. Mike I'm a copy cat so whatever you do for your truck, that's me too!

Thanks Dave, I'll take a look at my glove box sticker and post back. About what the factory uses... I have a friend that has the latest gen Dodge Cummins. Supposed to be nearly the same front end as the 2nd gens and 3rd gens with some changes for the better as you go later models. However, the newest generation Dodge front end steering has caused some deaths, as I understand, there is a big lawsuit and recall on it. Read the sticker, it's pretty wore off so difficult to tell, but, looks like it says M60 or something. I have a camper package, does that mean I could have a bigger axle?

This is why I disconnected my RV batteries from the truck alternator. Now only charge the RV by generator or grid power. I feel better about this all the way around not placing too much demand on my new N/D alt.

Mike, I remember you suggested I go to a main Chevron oil distributing Co. and by bulk CI-4 OIL. Which the only way to get it. My 1st gen has had CI-4 almost all it's 400 k miles and when I put in the CJ-4, only 3 times now, I notice differences that make me want to go back to the CI-4. I know it's better oil so I will be ordering a 55 gal. drum from Chevron. They deliver free at least.

I can't answer because I never learned how to tell which Dana axle I have. In order for me to grease the lower BJ's I have to jack the front wheels off the ground turn the wheel away from the side that I'm on and spin the hub till the U joint knuckle is out of the way. Then remove the little grease cap and place a temporary angled grease zirk on there. Then put the cap back on. I know, it's more work but feel better knowing they can't get dry and rusty like before. So you guys that like the nongreasable..... Are you saying they are sealed better? That dirt and water is better sealed out? I've heard that before but when mine failed so early I decided otherwise. My First gen everything is greasable and all parts are over 400k.

Yes it's sometimes better to save the money get the better mileage w/ 2wd. Also much simpler less expensive to maintain.

Why were my oems dry and rusty at 65 k then ?? Truck was a grocery getter for about 75 % of the time.. It's possible that my 02 was at the tail end of the second gen builds that Dodge put the cheapies on there or never greased them originally. Just no answer for this premature wear. Like Source automotive said, you have a choice with Spicer brand the less expensive ones or the USA choice. Source automotive only works on Dodge pick ups and they did me a good job recommending the greasers. My lowers are also greasable

Be careful, Source Automotive told me Spicer makes two grades, one from China cheaper and still makes the good USA made ones more expensive. I recommend not going cheap with the tough job of BJ replacement. You want the greasables. My original ungreasables were dry and rusty at 65k miles. wouldn't have happened had I had the opportunity to service them.

Mike it could become all of our problem when they start passing out Chinese foreign currency and the income tax is 60 percent when you work for it. Heee he I'm glad we got a rise out of you today

Trump might just be the budget cutter we need otherwise we will end up slaves to the big money loaners, just like having so much credit card debt you can no longer pay any of the principle balance. Then big money lenders own our country, our national parks etc. What about gun control then?, I ask! It is amazing to me how Obama and Michell can take lavish vacations, taking with them 7 different chefs for meals, spending 200k for two weeks and then not even think twice. We are getting hosed, exploited is all.

Thanks HR, I will rebuild the gun too because after doing what you say I found no debris so it needs a new kit as well. I thank you for this help. See if I can get some pics up today. It's difficult for a guy that ops on somewhat of a computer handicap

It does and I ordered a pump rebuild kit for it. I think I paid too much considering the amount of time getting it right.

Update: I ran that for an hour and a half and then ran crud cutter thru it. White paint dissolved into liquid came out. Sprayer was obviously neglected. Everything works well now except the gun does not shut off all the way. Oh well.... keep working on it

Okay, running laquere thinner thru now for about 10 mins. and a bunch of paint flakes are coming out. Amazing. Number of flakes are diminishing rapidly and are staying away from the pick up tube in the bottom of the bucket luckily. I have the gun off the hose going in the bucket. Works great.