JAG1

Yeah....:popcorn:

I heard that its better to change the trans fluid gradually or about 6 qts at a time like your doing.I'm no expert but just some thoughts;Check for ground resistance between the Alt housing and the engine block. If need be run another ground off the alt housing to the batter negative sideAnother is the trans speed sensor ?Another is running a torque converter lock up switch to see what happens. I know there are write ups on this and you have to remember to unlock it when it's shifting and or stopped. Something like that.Another is to have very clean battery connections.I had to find a Fluke Meter off Craiglist because mine was the lesser expensive one and wouldn't read right like yours does.

I remember reading on another diesel forum about a guy who works for a VP44 rebuilder. He said he has seen more damage to the VP's from biodiesel than anything else. The problem is he did not elaborate on what the damage was.... water and dirt might be his point since we can assume bio is like that.

Thanks bill....I think Ernie should be more respectful..... remove his hat, standing up when he speaks. Not interrupting so much. I think that would help his point go over better.

So far my opinion has not been swayed toward using Bio. I'll refrain from using it till I hear better things. Just good clean diesel fuel and 2 stroke is what I think is best.

:popcorn:

I don't count on this subject since I'm lazy and buy my firewood and then hire someone to stack it in the wood shed . I live on the west side (warmer ) so it only takes 1 and a 1/2 cords each winter

Yep Thank you so very much for this story

No one seems to care where the money is coming from to cover this bill. We don't have it to cover itTo solve the healthcare problem you get American companies hiring Americans working on American products again and build 'em better than anyone else. Soon you'll have affordable health care.I see prices in the stores have doubled during the time my income has gone down or stayed the same.Obamacare? Yeah... right

You can make your own lugs out of copper tubing. I make them so they bite or crimp to a longer length of stripped wire than all the manufacturers. Better contact. Before crimping on the lugs in a vise take some solder and tin coat all the stripped wire ends. It makes a more solid crimp and helps stop corrosion.When I make my own lugs I use different size copper tubing, flatten one end and drill out the proper size hole for the stud. Sometimes with a propane torch I'll solder the wire to lug again after crimping. Keeps out corrosion again and makes a stronger connection..

Nope all we do is hope and pray for plenty slosh. Plenty of that in my truck An extra 4 qts. has got to be a great benefit beside aluminum heat conduction

I like mine.... especially hauling heavy on hot summer days. I like the trans temp guage too. Aluminum conducts heat out away better too.

Thank you for explaining. I dream of a truck so easy to work on like my restored 64 Chevy flatbed used to be.

I was thinking of having full access to keep it clean and functioning well. Possibly even installing an air filter. I don't know for sure but, it would be nice to simply unscrew some black diamond plate or plates that let you work in there. Kinda like an HVAC crew that cleans duct work and cuts access to the main plenum.Another reason I bring this up is because of my cracked dash... don't want to make it worse taking things apart.Any other thoughts about this are appreciated.

This may be a dumb question.... but is there maybe a way to cut out the side of the HVAC for repairs and upgrades instead of all the dash removal?I would use diamond plate to mend the cut outs. Making access holes for future repairs.

never heard injectors needing replacement at around 109,000 miles. That's still so new still for a Cummins. In my book.... 109,000 miles is nothin' on a Cummins. Heck my 92 has over 400,000 miles and still runs good on the originals.Seth isn't it a possibility that Jim has some tank drain back going on? Or just carbon dirty injectors?

I placed 1/2'' shut off ball valves on both the tank side and engine side of the filter L/P. This way there is no drain back from the engine or the tank. You don't loose engine prime. Whole lot less mess when changing filters or lift pumps.I drilled my transfer case bottom plate and bolted a protection plate extension to go further back for the pump and filter. When I need to work on them I loosen one bolt and swing away the plate extension.

Thanks, this is something I wouldn't have thought of. Be meeting with the VP late next week. I appreciate the help...... it's important to be on your toes to do good when being hired.

MnTom I think you being able to help.... I won't be back at this company till the end of next week and will find out.

I'll let you know after I get a chance to look at it. Right now I'm working inside remodeling one of their offices. I think it's all one big unit with compressor and fan.

Does anyone know the best way to deaden the sound from a big heat pump? There is a company I work at that has the neighbor complaining about their heat pump bouncing sound off the building.They want some kind of a fence/ wall built, but I need some ideas experiences of what will help. The house is not close so thats a plus.Thanks for any thoughts.

I've read 2 reports that say the 0216 is not (always) the death code. One from Blue Chip Diesel in his write ups. And the other from you Micheal, Mopar 1973.Yes Mike, you posted a while back about how fuel pressure or the lack of it would cause the timing piston to not be able to advance itself mechanicaly because it needs fuel to do so and will set off an electronic 0216 error code as a result.just cannot understand my truck and some others are reporting their trucks run so good, mine for two years, with the so called death code.

Mike just want to make sure..... The fact that I can hear my pump running momentarily wild (when sucking air) and Fuel Pressure drops off will not set off an 0216 code?? Even though I can hear my lift pump just squealing for some bit of fuel?Just cannot for the life of me figure out why my truck, which runs so perfect, is throwing this code.

I think you are supposed to use a special cleaner on those or you can cause them to fail. Might be Sensor cleaner only, I think.Mariner, I also get the 0216 code that keeps coming up, but, the truck runs smooth as glass all the time. Been that way for 2 years. Sometimes I think this code is set off by a low tank when it sloshes and the fuel flow becomes reduced. I can hear my lift pump sucking in air on turns and other sloshes till I fill it up again. It think this is another main reason to mount the lift pump closer to the tank because when you have low fuel and suck air momentarily, it won't loose prime so readily as if it were up on the block.Mike do you think it can set off the 0216 code if the tank is low enough to slosh causing the pump to push air momentarily into the system? Thanks

I vote it go on the frame too. Also I recommend a fuel filter be mounted just before the new lift pump. I think lots of guys are using the baldwin cannister type.