Doubletrouble

Did it tweak the front door frame to? I would try to fix it. I'm no boddy guy by any means but I think it could be done. On a side note, may I ask where the seat covers came from? They look pretty good.

After I looked at the pic I understand your concern. The sensing end within the intake melted. I assumed the plug end melted. Somehow there is an excessive amount of heat getting into the intake track. Do you have boost gauges? Was it building that same amount of boost? I would think a valve hanging open would affect that reading? Maybe with the engine cold, pull the valve cover and check valve lash? Also, inspect the turbo for shaft play? I don't know if it's possible for heat to transfer to the pressure side due to a failure within the turbo? I'm spitballing here, I'm sure so.one else may have better ideas. I'll be watching, I'm curious of the cause now as well

This stuff here made by S100. Works great, leaves the black looking almost wet and new. The spray tip you see goes on the can and has a wide spray pattern for better coverage. Just a light coat on a cold engine and let it be.

There is a product to spray on the wrinkle finish of the engine. Turns it nice and black again, like new. I do mine once or twice a year depending on how dirty it gets.

It's been a bit warmer lately but the warmth seems to also bring rain. I haven't had a chance to get the Harley out yet.

Glad to hear you finally got her back on the road! That's great! Those ground issues are a serious thing, even more so with an automatic trans. When dodge engineered that they were not anticipating these trucks longevity. With the cummins engine and proper maintenance along with some modifications to the wire harness they will run a very long time. There are a few other factory short falls but most of us have fixed those by now also.

Not sure I've heard of these. But I'll do some checking.

Interesting idea.

I saw that on tiktok. Wow, terrible for the driver of the car. Hope they weren't injured. Sadly that would do nearly the same thing to a heavier vehicle as well. As far as your comments @Mopar1973Man, you are absolutely correct. Even just changing the backspacing on a factory wheel with spacers will alter the stresses on wheel bearings and steering. Add in poor maintenance practices and you have a catastrophic failure like in the video above and someone gets hurt.

I will need new tires by the end of summer. Thinking about using balance beads to keep the tires balanced through the life of the tire. I've used them in motorcycle tires with good results. Never in car/truck tires yet. Shocks, are newer KYB.

Pretty girl! They're good dogs, ours is very high energy and we keep a good supply of chew toys on hand. Kong and chuckit are the best ones so far. They hold up. Anything cloth she destroys. Lol

I put KYB's on the front last year. So far I like them. I replaced the track bar today. I also removed the steering damper, made it easier to do the TB anyway. I checked the damper, at first it had a dead spot in the center of travel. I cycled it all the way in both directions and it went away. I put it back on for now but I will be replacing it Also, I inspected the old track bar compared to the new. It's the same one, identical markings. I believe they're both made by moog. The last one had only 15k on it so now I don't expect much more from this one. Ugh. It did help some though. Went for a drive and the front end feels a bit tighter. Hoping once all the tie rods are replaced and a new steering damper on there it'll tighten up some more. It's not terrible but I feel it could be better.

@roadrescueiowa, the track bar I got from Napa is of the ncp line, as well as most of the tie rods that i have yet to order. I did look around for a factory replacement track bar with a poly bushing but couldnt seem to find one so hoping this one lasts longer than the one I'm replacing. It died after 15k. Also need to decide on a steering damper soon too. Track bar was the worst piece by far so wanted to get that replaced asap.

Sounds like it would be the best course of action considering your rural location. Terrible that ziply can't do more for you at least in the way of a discount for shoddy service.

They are commonly mistaken for German shepards because of their looks. They have a different build to them though. Lighter, usually run on average 10-15lbs lighter than a german shepard. Because of the lighter weight they're a bit faster and more agile. Supposed to be very intelligent and easily trained. Luckily we have a good sized fenced in yard for her to run and burn off some of that energy. So far she's a great pet. She is protective and stand offish with people she hasn't met yet but that's to be expected. She loves the little grandkids though and that's a big plus. She follows them around when they're here like she's keeping track of them. Lol

I would also proceed with the instructions of @JAG1 in checking for an oil leak into the turbo piping. Any extra oil/fuel will cause it to Rev uncontrolled. Eventually it could get to the point of serious damage.

It us beneficial to automatics having shifting and lockup issues. It also benefits manual trucks by eliminating the a/c noise from the equation and also fixes the horrible ground wire splices under the hood and you'll get good clean DC current once it's done.

I thought I would share a couple pics of the new addition to the family. Meet Athena, she is nearly 8 months old now, we got her at 6 months. She is a Belgian Malinois (pronounced mal-in-wa). She don't have akc papers but we are considering a DNA test just more for curiosity. We also want to work with a trainer to be sure she will behave in public. So far she has been very good for the wife when she had a couple visits with the vet. This breed is very well known for military and police work as well as personal protection. She us my wife's new best friend. They spend a lot of time together and have bonded which is exactly what I wanted. Athena will be here to watch over her momma when I can't. She is very high energy and very athletic. We will be setting up some suspended toys outside and maybe a small obstacle course of sorts for her to play and exercise on. So here we go, this is our little 48lbs puppy Athena.

Ordered the trackbar today at my local Napa. They should have it tomorrow morning. I also got a quote from them on the right outer drag link, inner drag link and left inner tie rod. The left outer was the only one that I replaced a year ago and is still good. For those 3 parts they quoted $203 which I didn't find to bad honestly. I'll reuse the adjusting sleeves and leave the left outer on the truck. BTW, the trackbar I ordered has a limited lifetime warranty, we'll see how that works out. Next decision will be: Which steering damper to go with? Should I get a Rancho rs5000, a factory type? Is there a better option? I'd like to have something durable and somewhat heavy duty. It is a heavy truck after all. Any suggestions?

Let's hope that's not the case. When I installed that trackbar I put as much torque on that bolt as I could. I know the spec is something like 250-or more lbs/ft of torque.

Did a bit of reading online. What I found is apparently most of Napa's lifetime warranty steering and suspension parts are made by dana/Spicer. Anyone else heard this or anything to the contrary?

Ok, had a chance and a helper so I could get under there and really get a good look at things while my daughter was turning the wheel back and forth. Trackbar is shot, both ends had visible play in them. (It was a cheapo from RA) It only lasted 15k miles. Right outer tie rod has very slight play, time to replace. Tie rod ends at the pitman arm and at the drag link are both showing slight play as well. So in a nutshell, the only good and tight part there is the left outer tie rod I replaced back when I did the trackbar. They weren't as bad back in the fall when I checked and greased everything before winter hit. But then again, I didn't have someone rocking the steering wheel at that time either. I'll be looking for a better quality trackbar this time around. As far as the steering linkage, I saw a complete kit from Detroit axle. I've used their parts in the past with no problem bit not on a heavy vehicle like this. Anyone have an opinion of them? I don't want to have to do all this again next year. Lol Also, while I'm replacing everything else, I'll replace the steering damper along with it. It's pretty rusty and looks rough. It's not oem, it's a rancho part.

standing! I checked rock auto, they don't show KYB but they do sell Rancho rs5000 steering dampers. I've used rancho shocks in the past, they seemed good. I have KYB shocks up front that seem to be good quality, might search for a matching damper.

I'll be checking it out today. My daughter will be over later to turn the wheel while I look closely at any thing that moves. I may remove the steering damper to check that as well. I assume they need resistance in both directions to be effective? I am also suspect of the track bar, it's only been on 15k miles but it was a cheaper offering from RA so maybe quality isn't nearly what it should be? @Mopar1973Man, are your alignment specs set at factory recommended settings? I only ask because I've read that caster should be adjusted differently to help with this issue.

Here is another video of death wobble. The shaking starts about 35 seconds in. And, correct me if I'm wrong, isn't the second video with the T style steering? That's supposed to be an upgrade correct? Mine has the OEM Y type steering linkage.