That Guy

That looks really nice. I've always had a soft spot for bowtie orange. Looks like he did grey accessory pulleys too. As a side note... My friend was helping with the rebuild. He is a bit less motivated than I and was wanting to just throw some paint on the bare metal. I got him not to. Wiped everything down fresh from the machine shop, several coats of primmer, several coats of paint. Forgot I took this picture, shame it gets covered up with all the accessories.

I just enjoy opening the hood to check the oil now. I've never had the truck in a show or anything. I can already see the intake leaking in the valley again. I think it is warped. I've had issues with it for years.

You may order one of the foam kits for them air handler box. Mine was all but gone on everything but the heater door. The evap is in front of the heater core and usually take the brunt of the dirt. I have been working on something as a filter to prevent some of the dirt/hair/crud that builds up in the core. Geno sells a set that goes in the cowl, that's kinda my idea. Also, my new heater and evap core didnt come fully sealed off like the factory units. I used some weather stripping foam to seal around them.

Its not a Cummins per say, but when I did a diff service on the chevy last time I did a smiley face and when I rebuilt the engine I painted the engine orange with grey metallic accents. Mind, the Chevy is dirty currently. I've only laid eyes on it twice in the last 6 months. It really does look better than the pictures make it, and not being blacked out under the hood. It gives a real WOW factor when popping the hood. Certainly more eager to pop the hood now.

You are right. I can get a bit dyslexic. It is the P049D, EGR exceeded learning limit.

Ah, okay. Those are ones that I copied and pasted from my google drive. The others I downloaded and then uploaded. From the trees out. From the bluff in. The Rock of Despair and Disappointment and the Stump of Contemplation.

Which ones in particular, assuming numbered top to bottom 1-5?

Years ago, before smartphones, I took a trip and found a neat little camping area that is not only free, but all the spots are on Lake Santeetlah near Robbinsville, NC. It is first come/first serve with no reservations. You could reasonably fit a 20' travel trailer or 25' C class rv, I wouldn't try for much larger owing to turn around room. Tent camping it fine. Road noise is non existent. It has 5 reasonably large spots, 2 are very level, 3 are not. It is 12 miles from "The Tail" if that's the star attraction for you. There is a open pit outhouse on site towards the entrance. I would encourage looking at the picture on the google listing as nothing I have taken with my 12 year old 6MP digital camera will do it justice. It is affectionately referred to as NSCR #1147 The Location (google is slightly misleading with the actual location) https://goo.gl/maps/JTvpfm5YsLE23y716 What you are getting into https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/nfsnc/null/recarea/?recid=49624&actid=34 The Google listing https://goo.gl/maps/YVV9o9igGofy9ak39 If you have a casual interest in hydro or civil engineering like myself, The Santeetlah Dam has a nearly 5 mile long penstock to its powerhouse at the foot of Fontana Dam on the Little Tennessee River. I will be going back out there towards the end of the year.

It overlooks a very picturesque and agricultural part of the Sequachee Valley. He has 90 acres and uses it as a a very secluded sanctuary where he can relax in the nude. It isn't reachable by car or rv owing to the power line trail that leads to it. No power or water, though he intends to add some form of them , almost no noise besides the odd loud truck from the farms in the valley which you have to be paying attention to hear. No air traffic either. The valley is over 1000ft below. The peak in the distance in the right of the picture is Crossville, Tennessee. The Rock of Despair and Disappointment along with the Stump of Contemplation.

I'm finally picking up the parts truck from tennessee. 270k on the clock, bad trans, runs well and starts easy.

I will just add, I was driving the other day, a P094D code popped up for the first time with a NOx insufficiency. The light came on a few days after I finished a 600 mile trip towing 10k. When I get back to Louisiana I think I will pull the egr system off and see how serviceable it is. It went away after a 70 mile round trip up to some mountain property, unloaded.

I did my flashing with an excel sheet that addressed specific values and addresses within the computers with simple true/false 1/0 statements. It was outlined in PriusChat which ones to do. I haven't found a full list of what all is possible with it, but I did also disable the outside noise maker that makes a electrical grinding noise to alert pedestrians when in full ev mode. Not exactly needed in the country. On the MAP sensor, I have found that sometimes the little dongles/apps don't always read things 100% correctly. It may be under a different address or the app for some reason can't interpret it. Take it with a grain of salt.

By just removing the throttle blade, you are affecting how much the egr will work greatly. On my little obd reader, Ive seen as much as 8-10 inches of vacuum. As I understand it, on a 2011, disconnecting the egr wont throw a code. However, according to that service bulletin I found, if it goes through a test cycle, it may throw a NOx or low egr flow code. That code it may throw can be reset with the most of the basic scanners. A OBD dongle off amazon can be had for ~$10. A copy of torque pro is like $5. For $15, you will have a decent code reader (deleter) and a data logger. You can also upload some custom flashes to the various computers in the truck. I'm unsure if it could possibly tune, but I have reprogrammed my Prius to get rid of the annoying back up beeper (it's in the cabin) and the passenger seat belt warning on account of my backpack will set it off. I have heard of others setting up various functions like rolling down windows by the key fob and such.

Try it. Worst case, plug it back in? Try the egr and throttle valve.

Friend said it looks like Mars. Its the property looking west. Okay, it's not my place, but it is 12-31-2019 at 12:59 pm. I'm the front right. We wouldn't have had time to make it home for New Years, so we had a little celebration with mimosas.

If you disabled the system in the software, it would be fine. If it isn't then the computer is not only actuating the valves but looking for a change in the emissions levels when it does its thing. If it doesn't see the levels change according to its predetermined limits, it throws codes. I'm still considering deleting my 2012. I have the room for the parts I take off to sit in the attic of the barn for later use if need be, don't intend to sell the truck though.

You can put a jumper wire in the connectors for the switches to see if it is the switches. Monitor the pressures for any funny business. Feel the relay, warm is normal, burning hot isn't. If the compressor starts to go, they typically start getting hot. Slightly uncomfortable is normal 100-130*, burning is not 150*+. The high side shouldn't cut out till 500 psi, kicks back in at around 400. Low has already been said. What is vent temp? If O tube is blocked or starting to, you will see very low on the low and very high on the high side. If it is blocked, you will likely have other issues to address in the system like a failing compressor or burst desiccant bag in the dryer. Both would require a system flush at minimum thought I personally just prefer to replace everything but the lines. Typically the cost of having a shop do a flush is more than the cost of the evap and condenser, and warranties are no good on stuff unless shop does the flush with receipt.

Sulfation, cycles, temperature, and buckling kill lead acid batteries. The coating on the plates can flake off with the expansion and contraction and form a conductive brown mud in the bottom and will eventually cause self discharge. Buckling can be caused my too much sulfate buildup or freezing and will actually break the grids. Obviously, the sulfate just coats things and reduces capacity because it doesn't conduct. The process of desulfating a battery is to hit it with high voltage in short spikes. Might hit it at 50v+ for 10-20 microseconds 2000 times a second for several hours. Maybe even a rest period. They are more effective when caught early. As an aside, voltage, amps, and resistance are all tied together and lead acid is self regulating. Most chargers are voltage regulated rather than the amperage regulation they would suggest. I have a charger from the railroad that can amperage regulate and can fry a battery in short order if not careful. Picked this up at the local Napa last 4th of July. Had a sell and it was around $140 (normally like $200+). It has a desulfate mode which seems to work well, which it is in currently and hooked to a misbehaving tractor battery. It will automatically go into the mode when it detects sulfate buildup. I'm not certain on how it does it, I've always checked the resistance of the battery.

Nanu nanu!

I'm picturing this

They are made of spring steel, or heat treated 5160 steel. It resists work hardening.

I suspect my egr may be starting to clog, or something to that effect, on the 2012. Right at 90k. Has started showing high NOx codes periodically in the last 2 years. The general operation of egr's is in the idle-cruising throttle range. At higher throttle, they typically are closed for more air/power. Disconnecting/deleting the throttle valve will throw a code, don't know if it will go into limp. The whole system goes through a self check. Operation happen when: coolant must be above 140 aftertreatment must be in 'normal' mode system test happens when: must be running at least 2 minutes has to be fairly steady highway speed for ~25min (it doesn't say specifically but most are in the 35-45 range for a lower threshold) coolant must be above 180 for at least 1 minute. aftertreatment must be in 'normal' mode May give you some insight as well. Emissions control reset.pdf

You may try throwing a bit of the 303 aircraft paint protectant (or your prefered UV protectant) on them. It seems to last several months per application. Seems to help with oxidation of the plastics as well. Should keep things looking good for decades it my friends plane is any evidence. He uses on most of the hard plastic surfaces and the paint. All plastic products have a code on them somewhere. Helps for recycling, though many can't be recycled in the traditional sense. Avoid ABS (if possible) on your next set. ABS is why the dashes fall apart. Side note, Headlights are made of Poly Carbonate, tail lights are made of Acrylic. Acrylic will break a bit like glass into hard sharp pieces, but is far better at resisting the aging from UV and O3. Poly Carbonate is won't shatter in the same way and is safer, which is why they use it on the front since most wrecks involve the front.

Friend of mine is a retired chemical engineer, worked for Du Pont. He has a collection on cars. My favorites are his 54 Buick Roadmaster 4dr, his "wifes" 53 Ford Thunderbird, and his 351 powered Cobra replica. I have yet to ride in something quite as smooth as that Buick. With two notable exceptions in my 27 years. Attended a gala and was given the opportunity to ride in a Bentley Continental. The price was a mind shattering $534,000. We started in a concert hall with a live jazz band. I shut the door and we whispered back and fourth to one another. The doors had 4 seals and the windows were double pane. Steering was effortless and ride was exemplary. We went over several speed bumps at the airport and you had to be paying attention to feel it were it not for the change in our inclination. Another acquaintance has a RR Phantom, I have no idea on price as I didn't ask. I'll just say that the idea is for the passengers not to know they are moving and it achieves that. The Phantom actually sits at the same height as SUV's these days and yet is a 'full size sedan' that comes in just under 3 tons. There really isn't much of a reason to require the amount of road feel cars have now other than cost and 'sporty'. Road feel seems to give people a false sense of security, also car gets better fuel economy and is cheaper to make (to a point) as it gets lighter. It also rides worse all things being equal. Fuel economy is probably the big one these days.

The american public at large isn't a fan of pinky steering anymore.... Same with the "boulevard ride". It's not the 1950's anymore. Personally, I love driving sensory deprivation tanks with pinky steering, no road feel, armchairs for seats, proper slush-o-matics, and no outside noise. The days of proper land barge engineering ended when Ford decided to install sway bars (sway bars are the enemy of smooth ride) on the Lincoln Town Car in 1995. I have a set of EMF's in the box waiting to be installed once the weather cools off. I'll do a little writeup or something if they are worth it. Carli, $800 will need a bit more convincing than that they don't wear appreciably.