hd99fxr3

Me and Dripley have NC and SC covered. Not sure who, if anybody is in VA.

To check the LP I would crack the line going to the filter, if you get fuel coming out, close it and crack the one going to the fuel pump. If you have fuel there, crack the line at the farthest injector. If you have fuel there chances are there's enough pressure to start the engine, and your problem is elsewhere.How new are the batterys? It has become apparent to me and others, that without two matched batterys, in good working order. These beasties will do all manner of stupid things, totally unrelated to having 12 volts. I mine for example, I have had a no crank issue in park, but would work just fine in neutral. It would come and go. The truck would start just fine in the morning but after setting in the sun all day, it would not crank. I had just replaced the neutral safety switch about a month before.Long story short batterys were showing full charge on a volt meter. Turns out the drivers side battery had a leaking negative terminal that ate the pinch bolt on the clamp in two. Still showed good voltage but was shot. I found it on accident because I was replacing the batterys (mismatched set, that was on my to do list), because I found a deal at the Dodge dealer on a set mfg in 7 of 2012. If I had not replaced them Sat. I would likely still be chasing, the no crank issue. Truck did not have any codes in memory, either.

I just paid $46 and some change at NAPA, and no core return was needed.

I haven't decided yet about putting full syn. in my Cummin's yet. But I do run full syn in my, 07 Harley. There is a 40 degree engine oil temp drop, when running Mobil 1 20w-50 vs. Dino 20w-50. I've had three different Harleys and the results were the same in all three bikes. I run it purely for the engine oil temp difference, 40 degrees in oil temp. is huge in an air cooled engine.

John, I did a full flush 2 or three months prior to doing the water pump. I had put a new thermostst in at that time. So i just needed to replace what I had lost.

Let me be the first to welcome you to the site.

you can't have your cake and eat it too. You made it home, without further damage to the billifold, be happy. If that would have been my trip, I would have likely been plagued with blowouts all the way home. Glad you got home, without further problems.

If you guys were just a bit more knowledgable about automatic trucks, me and Rogan could quit being on the bleeding edge. :banghead::lmao2:

Well I may have stumbled on to the root cause of all my problems (I hope). Went this morning to get a neutral safety switch from Dodge. For giggles I asked how much for a set of batterys for the truck. Cat behind the counter says they list for $150, but I can let you have them for $100 each. So I asked if this was for the correct battery for the truck and he said yup. I asked are they old and been in inventory for awhile? Nope says the cat behind the counter, they just came in. I said add a pair to my bill. Got home to take the ones in the truck out and put them in a couple of tractors, that could stand an upgrade, and notice that the bat on the drivers side is leaking battery acid around the negative terminal, it was kinda bubbling up out of the battery. So it was a good thing I decided to replace the mismatched set that was in the truck. As luck would have it the acid had eaten the pinch bolt in the clamp almost in two. Put in a new bolt, cleaned and neutralized the leaked acid on everything, tightened down all the clamps, and walla she's back to acting like she should.:hyper:Did about a dozen engine starts during the day, and zero miscues. I needed the batterys anyway so, if I'm fixed I'm happy. If not, I still averted a disaster waiting to happen.

What is an apps? And does my '06 have one? Tell me, tell me now. LOL

There is a switch in the cable going from the shifter arm to the transmission. It is part of the cable and is attractivly price@ $56 and some change. For a Dodge part no less. Alas this is only the switch that allows you to select a gear once your foot is pushing on the brake pedal. I pick up another neutral safety switch in the morning from the dodge place, for the unattractive price of $46 and some change vs. $20 something from NAPA for a made in China part. Be my luck the Dodge part is the same manufacturer.

Your owners manual should cover the grease points on the chassis.

Nice Lathe. I wish I had one.

I'm running the ZEREX G-05 as well. Like you I looked for awhile and the only one that is HOAT technoligy is the ZEREX in the Gold bottle. Paid $15.99 in jug at NAPA.

I'm pretty sure it's a coolant issue PO had run just regular green coolant in it. I flushed and changed fluid after I bought it, And again when I replaced the pump.

After I changed the neutral safety switch on the transmission the problem went away, for a bit, but is now back worse than before.To get it to start all I have to do is put it in neutral and just lightly pull up on the shift lever, and she cranks right up.I looked under the truck last night and wiggled the wiring, the switch and the shift cable to see if anything was loose or broken. Everything looks / feels OK. Looked under the dash and there looks like there is another switch under there. Anybody know what that switch is?

Had 91k on the clock, but judging by the bolt heads holding the pump on, it had been changed before.

Glad you found us. Post up some pics.

I know you guys are talking about 2nd gens hear, so I'm going to throw this out there. My'06 calls for full syn. There is also no recommendation to add a friction modifier. I refilled with Mobil 1 75w-90, and have not experianced any issuses in almost 10k

US Army1980-1984E-4 19DFt Knox for OSUT (basic & AIT)Ft Riley KS 1-34 Armor Goeppingen Germany 1-26 Inf deactivated and reconstituted as the 4-16 INFMarried a German girl, and stayed in Germany for 4 years after my ETS, to take a tool & die makers apprenticeship.My first duty as a newly minted Cav Scout with the 1st ID/CSC 1-34AR, was the battalion rifle team. We went on to earn the right to be the 1st Brigade rifle team. We shot against the 2nd Brigade, and won that match, which made us the 1st Division rifle team. That lead to shooting a match against all the other divisions in the 5th Army, which we handily won, so we became the 5th Army rifle team at the All Army matches in Ft. Benning that year. I don't remember how we did as a team, but I took home a bronze medal in one of the individual shoots.The funniest thing out of all that was the Plt. Sargent was pretty pissed about all this, because he assigned me to the team because I had just literally walked in the CP to report for duty. He looked at my jacket and saw that I had shot expert in basic, and said your now on the battalion rifle team till I get time for you. Much to his surprise, as soon as I reported to the team commander, I received duty exempt orders from the Battalion Commander. Then one from Brigade and then one from the 2 Star commanding the 1st ID, and then one from the 3 Star commanding 5th army.This all started in Jan. '81 and went into Sept or Oct. the same year. The whole time the E-7 is pretty pissed because he thought this would be over in a week. We had won the right to rep. the 1st ID and were practicing for the 5th Army matches, when it became time for the Battalions ARTEP. So on a Sunday morning the E-7 tells me to report to his track with my gear. I show him my orders, making me duty exempt from all things not related to the division rifle team. He said I don't give a crap get your sh*t and report to my track we are short handed and I need every man. So being the good soldier I was, I reported to his track. So all day Sunday and Monday I was doing the job I had trained to do. Tuesday morning about 10 am we get a msg for the pltoon to report to a certain grid coordinate. Not long after we get there a bird with a 2 star flag on the nose lands and out steps the CG, ACG, BDE CO, Battlion CO and our Company commander.The dressing down that all parties in my chain of command took in front of the whole platoon was epic. Every one of them was told that the next time one them disobeyed an order with his signature on it, they would all be transfered some place cold and lonely. After he was finished he came over to me and told me to get my gear and get on the bird. When we took off the only ones in the bird were me, him and the pilots. Delivered me to the shooting range, so I could shoot with the team.The E-7 was pretty cool about it after I was finished with the whole thing. Welcomed me into the platoon, and didn't give me any sh*t. When he became the acting First Shirt he made me the Company clerk. He told me right after we both came down on orders that he had no idea, the team had that much juice. I said hey Sarge didn't you notice the CGs signature on the orders? He said yea, but I had no idea it was more important than an ARTEP.My time in Germany was a let down after all that.Scout's out!!!!!!!!!!! Oh and I almost forgot. " If you ain't Cav, you ain't Sh*t". Just ask anybody

I started my service in Sept. 1980 as a 19D Cavalry Scout. So the 19 MOS came out prior to that, as everybody at the time was very familiar, with that designator. You would think that if it was recent, I would have heard the 11D moniker at least once. Never heard it in my entire time in service. Tanker, Tanker, don't be blue......................... DAT 11bang bang, 11bush beater Ahhhh those were the days. 19D MOS the only MOS in the Army that had to know aspects of every other Combat MOS to pass an SQT. Also the only non-Infantry MOS eligable for the EIB in peace time and CIB after a tour in a combat theater.

What year truck you have? I can see it on the 2nd gens, but am doubtful that would work on my '06. - - - Updated - - - $47 at NAPA and no core charge.

I did all that about 6 or 8 weeks ago. So I actually drained perfectly good coolant and replaced it with new, just to make double sure, I had all the old,old coolant out. $40 for coolant is cheap insurance.

Missed communication on my part. For some reason I was talking / thinking we were discussing the ring gear carrier in the diff.

Other years will be similar, major point of contention would be the orientation of the belt tensioner. Try to do it without removing anything but the belt and pump will take hours, and volumes of language not fit for Human consumption. 1) Get under truck on passanger side with a 1/2 inch long handle ratchet, not a breaker bar (head too thick). Insert the drive square on the ratchet into the belt tensioners preformed indention for the 1/2 inch square. Use the ratchet to pull the belt tensioner towards the ground. While holding the tensioner in this position take the belt off the the A/C pully. Return the tensioner to it's relaxed position, by reducing pressure on the ratchet handle. Leave ratchet on the tensioner for now. 2) Open drain-plug on radiator and let the water drain out. While you are waiting on this to happen, get all the other things you will need to do the job (list of tools and materials at the end of this guide) 3) Remove the Thermostat housing complete with hose, by removing the three 8mm bolts holding the housing to the engine block. Once it's out of the way remove the Thermostat and gasket from the block. 4) Remove the fan shroud support that is directly in front of the Alternator ( two 13mm nuts and two 10mm bolts). 5) Using a 1/4 drive ratchet and 10mm 6 point socket (12 point will cause problems), with a short extension between the racthet and socket remove the two bolts holding the water pump on the block {( you will need a cheater pipe on the ratchet ) be careful to keep the socket straight on the bolt while using the cheater pipe, it will have a nateral tendency to want to pull sideways and not square}. Remove water pump. 6) Clean the area on the block where the O-ring on the pump seals against the block ( I used a Scotchbrite pad ) { hint your wife has one in the kitchen, used to scour pots and pans }. 7) Install O-ring on new pump using a bit of grease to hold it in place. 8) Making sure the weep hole is pointed down (may be located differently than OEM pump, mine was), install the new water pump. Making sure to use cheater pipe and common sense to tighten the two bolts, while keeping the socket straight on the bolt head. 9) Turn pully on pump to insure, freedom of movement, and then reroute the serpentine belt correctly over and under all the pulleys (a smooth pully rides against the top side of the belt). Don't forget tp remove the 1/2 inch ratchet from the tensioner, once the belt is correctly back in place and fully tensioned. 10) Close radiator drain-plug. 11) Put the fan shroud bracket back on. 12) Pour 1/2 of a gallon jug of antifreeze in radiator, then fill jug back to top with water, giving you a 50/50 mix. Do a second gallon by pouring half of it into the first jug that is now empty, now fill both jugs to the top with water. Pour them into the radiator while keeping an eye on the hole in the block where the thermostat goes (if you already put it in you've messed up but not totally) {in the event you did this, remove the heater hose off of the pipe coming off the cylinder head}. When the water fluid is at the top of the hole in the block, stop filling the radiator. 13) Install a new Thermostat and gasket in the block and install the thermostst housing including the upper radiator hose. 14) Remove the heater hose off of the pipe coming off the cylinder head and resume filling the radiator, slowly until fluid starts to come out the pipe on the head. Going slower with the pour continue to fill the radiator until there is a head of fluid on top of the pipe but not flowing over. Re-install the heater hose, and finish filling radiator till full. 15) Start truck, and make sure you don't have any leaks. 16) Go for a test drive until you reach normal operating temprature. shortly there after you should be back where you did the work. Shut the truck off, after parking over a dry area, clean up the mess. Once that's done, check underneath the truck to make sure you don't have any leaks, if there are none, take a break and have one of your favorite beverages. Once the truck has cooled off, so that there is no danger of burning yourself, remove the radiator cap and check your fluid level, if it's good, put the cap back on and fill the coolant tank with 50/50 mix to the full mark. 17) Go for a longer drive this time, so that the truck gets up to temp. continue for a half hour or so before returning home. Once there have another beverage, if there are still no leaks. let the truck cool off to the point that removing the radiator cap will not result in scaulding yourself or others. using a coolant tester check to make sure you have ample coverage for your area of the country. Adjust as needed. List of materials tools are as follows: 3 gallons of G-05 antifreeze New water pump and gasket New thermostat and gasket Scotchbrite pad Clean water source (distilled water is recommended) 1/2 inch drive, long handle ratchet 13 mm ratchet wrench 1/4 inch drive, ratchet with short extension 10 mm 1/4 inch drive six point socket 8mm 1/4 inch drive six point socket Two foot long cheater pipe, small enough to have a good fit on 1/4 inch drive ratchet. Hose clamp pliers or good screw driver depending on clamp type. SUBSITUTING in 3/8 drive for the 1/4 inch drive tools will result in abject failure and rounded off bolt heads. Leaving you crying for mommy, and wishing you had taken it someplace to have the work done. A ratchet wrench may work on the top bolt, not on the bottom one. Trying to use anything but a 1/4 inch drive 10mm 6point socket and ratchet on the bottom bolt, Will fail horribly. That's it, have fun. On a side note now is also the perfect time to do a flush of the cooling system, if you have not done one in the recent past. It also may be time to update those hoses and serpentine belt.