Yankneck696

Looking at the schematic above, I would try swapping out the trans control relay & checking any fuse for the trans. Ed

I was pretty surprised, myself. Ed

I spoke to all of the manifold manufacturers & none are willing to do a center dump manifold for the HE351VE. It's either the 08+ manifold or the adapter. Ed

The VE will not bolt directly to the 2nd gen manifold without machine work. There is an Ebay adapter that will allow fitting, but in 4WD models you will have shock bolt issues. 3rd gen manifolds will work & provide enough for 450-500 HP on a Common rail 6.7, so I doubt you will have backpressure issues. Get the downpipe for it if going this route & oil feed & return lines will have to be modded or replaced. The sound is from the turbo, not the manifold. Ed

Which actuator plug did you use to fill the solenoid hole? If I remember correct, one of them stilll bleeds back into the compressor. Ed

A couple months. Maybe 3... I have to get the prototype working with all functions, then have a new board made & alter the code for the new board. It's a pretty legnthy process & I want it 100% out of the gate. Ed

Heck, I would never sell the wife. She id the best thing that ever happened to me. Yeah, I will have the prototype working on boost, then, drive pressure, then CAN inputs like APPS, RPM & brake signal. Ed

Heck, I met my wife on the internet... 351VE controller is in the works. I have a prototype I am going to install this weekend. Once tested, I will add each feature I want & in 2-3 months, it will be ready for sale. Ed

Correct. With no or little mods, the HY will spool quicker. As I said, I have the Adrenaline on mine & can run pretty clean with the HY turnbuckled. $2.00-$4.00 for the turnbuckle & $30 or so for a boost fooler, or get a tuner that does boost fooling. Ed

Mine is cinched shut. With the Quad Adrenaline & stock injectors, I see 28# of boost. Ed

HX uses an adjustable boost elbow. Ed

Google " hy35 turnbuckle " & go to the hardware store. You will also needd a boost fooler/tuner. Ed

Poor design..... Ed

Speaking of boost leaks.... Have you checked? Ed

You got it right... Ed

Unless you have a manual lockup switch, you will never know it's done. You must manually select it with a TC lockup switch. Ed

Keep everything CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN !!!!!!! Take pics of the disassembly to assist you in putting it back together. Lint free rags are a MUST !!! Also, do the 2nd gear TC lockup mod while in there. Ed

33 ohm resistor gives no codes. VB mod is needed for 2nd gear lockup. Ed

with the key off: 1. Unplug the unit from the harness 2. remove the power lead from the battery or underhood fuse center. 2. Remove the ground fron the battery 3. remove the red/white wire from fuse 7 or 9 in the in cab fuse panel. 4. Follow the harness towards the engine & remove the data link connector. 5. A bit further back on the engine, remove the MAP adapter & return the factory harness to the PAM sensor. 6. remove FP, EGT & temp sensors & plug them each with 1/8 NPT brass plugs (If used). 9. On the harness, you will see the control pod wire going through the firewall. Unplug & remove. Ed

Good idea, Michael... Ed

http://paradigmsearch.hubpages.com/hub/How-to-Convert-Power-aka-Watts-Volts-Ohms-to-Amps-aka-Current I=E/R. I=Amps E=Voltage R=resistance That being the equasion, I would go with a 6 ohm 20 watt ceramic style resisror. That would give the illusion of a 2 amp load & should work. Ed

AFAIK, there are 6 different boards. If yours is not the same version, it may have different part numbers. Get the numbers off of your parts & order them. Ed

0 is boost fooling 1 is timing only 2 is timing & CAN fueling (About 65HP) 3 and above add wire tap fueling I think advertizing on Edge & Quad both have a low setting for MPGs, but many have found that higher levels yield better if the throttle is judiciously used. Ed

Try moving the power wire from fuse 7 to fuse9. Ed

OK, the V2.1 is less succeptable to jump starts. What controller do you have? If a pod or PV1, try taking it apart & using something to short the contacts to change levels. The silicone/carbon buttons were failure prone. Also, check ALL connections very well. Ed