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Could really use some help - Engine knock

Ilikeoldfords
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Ilikeoldfords

Ilikeoldfords

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I havent towed anything heavy, never hardly get over 2300 rpms, never let it get over 1100 EGT. In fact, I am pretty sure I baby this truck. The guy I had check into it thinks the injector either stuck open or stuck closed. He said he has seen an injector get stuck closed and it actually caused the same problem. Called it a "lean burn" or something like that.

I know it looks like a coincidence but I still wonder if it had something to do with timing from running the batteries dead last week. Ran fine before running it dead. New alternator and charged the batteries back up and the knock was there. Very strange if you ask me. I just dont know where the correlation would be apart from crazy engine timing issues.

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moparguy55

moparguy55

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Posted (edited)
9 hours ago, Ilikeoldfords said:

I havent towed anything heavy, never hardly get over 2300 rpms, never let it get over 1100 EGT. In fact, I am pretty sure I baby this truck. The guy I had check into it thinks the injector either stuck open or stuck closed. He said he has seen an injector get stuck closed and it actually caused the same problem. Called it a "lean burn" or something like that.

I know it looks like a coincidence but I still wonder if it had something to do with timing from running the batteries dead last week. Ran fine before running it dead. New alternator and charged the batteries back up and the knock was there. Very strange if you ask me. I just dont know where the correlation would be apart from crazy engine timing issues.

Real crappy luck damn. 

He tested the injector and it was ok right? Make you wonder how it could just stick either open or closed then fine again. Like you said so odd it happened at same time that the batteries died. 

Why is it always usually always #6 or #1 ?

 

If it were me id buy a used engine that you can hear run check for blow by and off to races.

Edited by moparguy55
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CUMMINSDIESELPWR

CUMMINSDIESELPWR

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12 hours ago, TFaoro said:

Hard to beat the 3rd gen trucks with how comfortable they are and how much more cab room there is. 

This is just me.... If you're on a tight budget, pick up a used engine (like you said)

If you've got the money, upgrade to a 3rd gen with less miles, but be prepared to drop some coin on making it as reliable as your 24v.

Labor isn't cheap, and he said he doesn't have the time. 

yeah i saw that, i need to open up a rebuild shop lol

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Wild and Free

Wild and Free

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Given the mileage it rules out a repair job and thus the 10K for either total rebuild or even a new or reman engine would be about the same money with labor to R&R.

Shop rates are not cheap but does anyone want to work for minimum wage and no benefits? Lots of overhead and then the govs mandates taxes ect add up and someone has to pay for it. Plus if one expects the shop to honor any warranty on their work they need a bit to fall back on in way of some profits over time.

When I used to moonlight on my own on weekends and after hours when I was younger and seemed to have endless time I charged half of whatever average shop rates were in town for whatever I was working on and my travel time was part of that time. At that time 10-15 years ago or so average shop rates were in the 60-90 an hour. Now I rarely see any shop rates less than 100 an hour around me anymore at dealerships, have not been in any independent shops lately to see what they are charging.

When ever someone used to complain to me as a tech about shop labor rates when I worked at dealerships I just replied with a simple statement that made most stop and think a bit.

I simply asked if they worked for free and most would instantly say no in a defensive way and I would come back with "Then why do you expect me to work for free"? Usually ended the conversation.

I watch our local classifieds and there are usually several 5.9's for sale but no matter the generation they all ask 2500-3500 for them some running some for rebuild. Good Cores are generally worth around 1100 - 1400 bucks if turned in for a new or reman from what I have heard locally anyhow.

Edited by Wild and Free
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01cummins4ever

01cummins4ever

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I've been following this thread, but never chimed in, all I can say is sorry to hear it end like this, was hoping for a better outcome, but any way I

sorry, damn computer mouse got away from me again ! just saying most of the time and Im sure you've heard it before, is the vehicle you got is the cheapest one to fix and usually the cheapest way out. I'm sure 10 grand is not to far out of the ball park for a R&R, with a quality reman engine. but I've seen rebuilt crate engines for around 6 to 7 grand if you could find the time to drop it in your self, any way just my two cents, and If you found the time to tear into your engine it might not be as bad as it sounds.

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Ilikeoldfords

Ilikeoldfords

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Thanks for all the help on this one. I think at the moment the truck will just be parked. There isnt really any way I can swing the $10k right now. I think if I had the choice I would just have them rebuild mine and be done with it. That way I would know exactly what has been done. But thats just not an option right now.

I still have the old caprice so I am not without transportation. We were/are planning on replacing the wifes car this year. With how much I travel for work, I would feel much better with her having a new or at least newer car. That expense will come before the truck gets an engine. After we get that taken care of, and things settle in depending on what kind of financing we get for the new car, then we will look at bringing the truck back to greatness.

For the time being, I will just keep my eyes and ears peeled for a good used motor.

Thanks again for all the help and assistance in deciding what to do.

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Wild and Free

Wild and Free

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I have had this happen with a couple vehicles over the years and one just needs to realize when its time to cut the cord and move on especially when the repairs are going to equal or exceed the vehicles value. I took all this into account when we sent the wifes 03 Jetta TDI down the road last year, at nearly 300K was a solid perfect car yet but was almost due for tires, timing belt kit, clutch and could have used injectors and close to another intake cleanout, parts and labor alone were close to or a bit over what the car was worth even though it would of most likely went another 100-200k miles it just was not worth it in my mind. Even if one stuck 3k into it and got into an accident and only gotten 2k from insurance, just not worth sticking money in anymore.

I would pull the head and see if the cylinder is actually damaged or scored, I have seen many damaged pistons with no cylinder damage, one could get lucky and do a head job and a piston and keep it rolling or just enough to send it packing in the way of trading it in or selling it at a local auto auction where one would not have to do a guilt laden personal face to face sale, I did this with the only Ford I ever owned for a whole 2 weeks what a POS., never again as long as I live will I ever own anything with a blue oval on it.

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Ilikeoldfords

Ilikeoldfords

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10 hours ago, hex0rz said:

Blue book the truck, because 10k for a rebuild is more than I could ever ask out of my whole truck. Your better off trying to diy it if you insist in keeping it or parting it out.

For the heck of it I just saw this:

https://spokane.craigslist.org/ptd/5408111747.html

 

I have found places like this all over. Here is another one online. I think when the time comes I will just do something along these lines. At the very least getting running again and sell. With a new engine like that I could easily turn around and sell it for 12-15k which seems to be the going rate around here for a nice second gen.

All it takes is a little money!! Maybe when that tax return comes this year :kick:

 

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Ilikeoldfords

Ilikeoldfords

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Thank you so much for the offer. Depending on when I get around to grabbing another engine I will definitely check in with you.

While on this note, thanks again to everyone who pitched in on helping track down the issue. I am pretty upset that it ended with needing an engine but cant change it now. Just have to pick up and move on from these situations. I am finding some good deals on reman'd long blocks online so it might happen a little sooner than I thought.

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The_Hammer

The_Hammer

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2 hours ago, CUMMINSDIESELPWR said:

swapping an engine with 2 people will take at most 4 days or less if someone knows what all needs to be disconnected and reconnected. I put mine in with a helper in one day and had it running. the next day i put all the accessories back on and had it on the road.

2 days is about how long it takes me on average, I don't have a helper though.

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NightHawk

NightHawk

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I have never swap an engine out of a 2nd gen and hope i never will unless its for added performance :thumb1:.

However, me & a buddy swapped out his worn 7.3 for a new reman in a single day. Took another day to finish up all the connections and another day to find a bad hpop seal :mad:.  The best/quickest method is to have everything ready to install at your location to avoid unnecessary trips/reorganizing/planning.

Edited by NightHawk
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CSM

CSM

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I can swap a carbureted small block mopar in and out in a couple hours.  The Cummins engines should be quick if it weren't for all the electrical connections (I haven't pulled one yet)... Although it helps that we have a backhoe and two front end loader tractors rather than mess with a cherry picker.  

What takes the most time on the Cummins?  Hyd clutch?  Electrical?  It can't be fuel or exhaust. 

Edited by CSM
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