Help-Cummins Down............

[JAG1]

Part of the problem is these companies can pay to have their customers reviews edited. Take out the bad put in the good.

[Countyguy]

The only ecms available are rebuilt. Unless you can find a dodge dealership that has one on the shelf yet. My local dealer said no new ones in Wi. Dodge or Fiat stopped carrying this part in Oct 2016. Flagship one my Ecm is $775. And no core charge. Most places I found for internet pricing cost $600-$800 plus $250 core. Price was mostly based on warranty. 

 

Waiting for an email to see if my new one has been sent. 

[pepsi71ocean]

On 3/7/2017 at 11:04 PM, winch_warrior said:

Ok. Give me some reputable company names for rebuilt ECM's.

 

https://autocomputerspecialist.com

 

This is the Company that I used, and was referred to by a guy i know who has bought several rebuilt ones. They rebuild your ECM/PCM not send you one in a box. They were quick, and i had mine turned in a week or so. and it was not expensive either.

Edited May 1, 2017 by pepsi71ocean
Needed to add link in

[abner99]

Thank you this is good to know in case my ever goes bad. 

[JAG1]

NPD Diesel might be a good one also. They give you a lifetime warrantee and have a good write up on  ECM's. They talk about how there are only a few places the ECM typically fails.

 

A guy on TDR forum liked them and posted he had good luck with them.

Edited May 3, 2017 by JAG1

[Countyguy]

New rebuilt unit is installed cruise control not turns on but does not function. I know my Ecm was bad and the rebuilt one proves this. But it is not controlling all functions as I expect. Will see what they are goIng to do about it. 

 

Flagship one has been decent to deal with just have a little issue in total programming. Wish I could find a company that deals with these specific ecms. But it is a 15+ year old product and I think most of these companies want to work with the newer vehicles. 

 

I know now the fact is the dealerships want to sell new vehicles and want to get older vehicles off the road. I am not ready to give up on the best diesel truck ever built. Nor can I afford to do so. 

[Hawkez]

This sucks that you are having this much trouble.  It is always a fear in the back of my mind that my ECM is going to fail and I will be in the same boat as others, trying to find an ECM.  I hope that you get this taken care of and that the company works with you on this.

[Mopar1973Man]

On 5/3/2017 at 7:31 AM, Hawkez said:

It is always a fear in the back of my mind that my ECM is going to fail and I will be in the same boat as others, trying to find an ECM.

 

 

Not even a concern to me. As long as...

• You never modify the electrical system, adding grounds, APPS sensor mods, noise filter mods, etc.
• Test for AC noise during your oil change would be a good time and you deal with the noise issue promptly. 

I'm going to clear 300k miles on the OEM PCM and ECM. This is only my second VP44. I did lose a ABS module to a bad alternator. So I'm going to keep on truckin' and not worry about it.

[Hawkez]

Not a concern?  I guess I don't have any expectation that the ECM is going to last forever.  Just like you lost your ABS module before catching a failing alternator, seems to me that the same could happen with the ECM.  It is a man-made electronic component and eventually it will fail.  I understand that there are things that can speed that failure up and we can do things to "prevent", but nothing last forever. 

[Countyguy]

Another update for all. 2nd ecm is still in truck. Cruise control is not working yet. I had 2 codes come up in the ecm. P572 Brake switch signal low and p501 vehicle speed sensor range/performance 

 

The company I bought the ecm from said I could send it back right away but I have been troubleshooting both of these codes to verify it is an Ecm issue. 

 

The brake switch signal is getting to the  Ecm. I have battery voltage at pin #24 when brake pedal is pressed. 

 

As far as the speed sensor. My speedometer is working fine. I bought a scan tool that can do live data it is showing correct speed in the pcm but the ecm is not getting or processing the signal. According to the wiring diagram it should have the speed input from abs controller to pin #27 at the pcm and pin #43 at the ecm. I can only assume the signal is going to both places. This code is set when the speed is not the same in both computers. 

 

Lastly i I bought a Bosch obd 1150 scan tool. It will do live data from both pcm and ecm but it will not let me reset the codes in the ecm. I called Bosch tech support and the said it may not work with all applications. Kind of frustrating to spend that kind of money and it not work as expected. Does anyone know of an inexpensive scan tool. (Less than $200) that will do live data and talk with both computers on our trucks?

[pepsi71ocean]

On 5/4/2017 at 3:07 PM, Hawkez said:

Not a concern?  I guess I don't have any expectation that the ECM is going to last forever.  Just like you lost your ABS module before catching a failing alternator, seems to me that the same could happen with the ECM.  It is a man-made electronic component and eventually it will fail.  I understand that there are things that can speed that failure up and we can do things to "prevent", but nothing last forever. 

 

Actually, the ABS and the alternator went at the same time, I was the first person on the phone when it failed. You also must understand that a manual transmission truck doesn't exhibit signs of A/C blow by like an automatic will. With that being said, i do believe Mike is also on his 2 or 3rd alternator, so you can also wonder how much blow by was emitted before on the previous alternators.

 

Even after extensive testing on my truck it still took me a while to alleviate the issues after 4 reman alternators, that failed, but later passed after the source of the A/C was found(bad drivers side ground cable).

 

As for longevity, i don't see much of an issue at all Hawkez, we have several semi trucks that have 700,000 plus miles on them with advanced electronics and more computers then i could throw a stone at. I don't worry that in the proper environment that a ECM/PCM/ABS computer will not stand the test of time.

 

 

On 5/19/2017 at 10:06 PM, Countyguy said:

Another update for all. 2nd ecm is still in truck. Cruise control is not working yet. I had 2 codes come up in the ecm. P572 Brake switch signal low and p501 vehicle speed sensor range/performance 

 

The company I bought the ecm from said I could send it back right away but I have been troubleshooting both of these codes to verify it is an Ecm issue. 

 

The brake switch signal is getting to the  Ecm. I have battery voltage at pin #24 when brake pedal is pressed. 

 

As far as the speed sensor. My speedometer is working fine. I bought a scan tool that can do live data it is showing correct speed in the pcm but the ecm is not getting or processing the signal. According to the wiring diagram it should have the speed input from abs controller to pin #27 at the pcm and pin #43 at the ecm. I can only assume the signal is going to both places. This code is set when the speed is not the same in both computers. 

 

Lastly i I bought a Bosch obd 1150 scan tool. It will do live data from both pcm and ecm but it will not let me reset the codes in the ecm. I called Bosch tech support and the said it may not work with all applications. Kind of frustrating to spend that kind of money and it not work as expected. Does anyone know of an inexpensive scan tool. (Less than $200) that will do live data and talk with both computers on our trucks?

 

Scan Gauge 2 does fairly good with most live data feeds. Althought my brother has a bluetooth that reads and follows live data.

 

My concern is which speed sensor is the computer picking up. the one on the rear diff, or the transmission mounted one.

[kzimmer]

On 5/4/2017 at 0:30 PM, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Not even a concern to me. As long as...

• You never modify the electrical system, adding grounds, ...

 

Can you touch on this a little bit? I'm trying to imagine a scenario where adding grounds would be a bad thing. I could see maybe adding a chasis ground to something that already has a digital ground (ecm, apps, canbus sheilding) inducing some loop current / noise I suppose. Just want to make sure I know what you're getting at here.

[JAG1]

I would like to know a bit more about it also.

 

My alt was putting out proper charge voltage (low A/C noise) but the batteries where getting 6/10ths of a drop in charge voltage. I added a ground from alternator housing to battery ground and lowered the voltage drop to acceptable range.

 

Currently cleaning all grounds especially the two big ones on the engine block.

[Me78569]

9 hours ago, kzimmer said:

 

Can you touch on this a little bit? I'm trying to imagine a scenario where adding grounds would be a bad thing. I could see maybe adding a chasis ground to something that already has a digital ground (ecm, apps, canbus sheilding) inducing some loop current / noise I suppose. Just want to make sure I know what you're getting at here.

 

I think Mike's point is if you have to add grounds to resolve a serious issue, then there is likely something else going on.  

 

Adding a gorund is not a bad thing, but expecting it to be a cure all is risky.  Always ask yourself, if this was an actual issue related to a lack of ground wouldn't OEM have added a Ground?   

 

Just don't jump to the "add tinfoil ground" bandwagon without taking a indepth look at what is causing the issue.  There may be a situtation where a new ground is required, but I find it way more likely that something else is going on to cause the need for a ground.

[Dieselfuture]

That's what I was thinking too, as long as your alternator is good adding extra ground is good, but once in a while take it off and test alternator without any add ons.

[pepsi71ocean]

On 6/2/2017 at 1:27 AM, kzimmer said:

 

Can you touch on this a little bit? I'm trying to imagine a scenario where adding grounds would be a bad thing. I could see maybe adding a chasis ground to something that already has a digital ground (ecm, apps, canbus sheilding) inducing some loop current / noise I suppose. Just want to make sure I know what you're getting at here.

 

The theory here is that the truck worked fine for the first 10 years of its life, adding grounds is most likely only a band aid fix for another underlying problem.

 

On 6/2/2017 at 10:38 AM, JAG1 said:

I would like to know a bit more about it also.

 

My alt was putting out proper charge voltage (low A/C noise) but the batteries where getting 6/10ths of a drop in charge voltage. I added a ground from alternator housing to battery ground and lowered the voltage drop to acceptable range.

 

Currently cleaning all grounds especially the two big ones on the engine block.

 

Check your battery ground cables, mine were going bad, but still passed a voltage test, failed the vDrop test, and it was only the drivers side cable, passenger was passing.

 

However replacing both grounds (the whole cable from engine to battery) did resolve my TC lock up problems.

[Mopar1973Man]

If your electrical is in good order no extra grounds are required. Look in at 302k miles and never added a extra ground at all. No noise issues as long as the alternator is in good condition. Again extra grounds are NOT suggested or required. Fix the actual problem being the AC noise generated by a bad alternator.