Custom Quadzilla Tuning R & D Thread

[kzimmer]

I kinda thought maybe it was sized to remove the crossover tube or something. Mines still in the box.

[Me78569]

yep crossover remover,  you thread it onto the end and it will hold the crossover tube out.  

[Dodgeih]

I saw it threaded onto them but couldn't come up with how I could use it I guess lol... Anyway I did a thing tonight, 0-100 on my daily tune with no wire tap... Couldn't see smoke output but its next to nothing I imagine... Here's a video of my dash and a data log... (all done on closed course....... Of course...lol)

 

daily0-100.csv

[Me78569]

Here's the log

[jlbayes]

Scratch that.

Edited January 10, 2018 by jlbayes

[dirty830]

9 hours ago, Dodgeih said:

I saw it threaded onto them but couldn't come up with how I could use it I guess lol... Anyway I did a thing tonight, 0-100 on my daily tune with no wire tap... Couldn't see smoke output but its next to nothing I imagine... Here's a video of my dash and a data log... (all done on closed course....... Of course...lol)

 

daily0-100.csv

Is that a nv4500 or a nv5600?

[Dodgeih]

4500

[Dodgeih]

So the fuel leak seems to have stopped... But here's my current issue after injector install... Hard starts.. If it sits More than 5 minutes it cranks a lot. Then it just fires up, usually. Sometimes after sitting a long time up to 30 seconds of cranking.then it just fires up and runs great. Shut it off and it will fire right back up no issue. I noticed the return tee at the back of the block was damp with fuel I was thinking this could very well be my issue. Nose up it starts really hard, nose down it is kinda hard. But here is the kicker... I feel like the other day my oil level way halfway in between add and full and today it is exactly at full, no signs of water and doesn't smell like fuel so maybe I checked it right after I shut it off or added and forgot I added... Thoughts? 

[Mopar1973Man]

2 hours ago, Dodgeih said:

I feel like the other day my oil level way halfway in between add and full and today it is exactly at full, no signs of water and doesn't smell like fuel so maybe I checked it right after I shut it off or added and forgot I added...

 

Keep an eye on the oil level. See if it continues to grow and if the oil pressure drops on you. 

[rogerash0]

Mine had the same symptoms u describe and I was chasing it for awhile but. I think it was from me doing a bad valve lash job my first time. It ran fine when warm, basically what u said to a T minus I never put it on a hill. I also wanna say it started better with the drive pressure leak fixed, but I may be getting that and the valves mixed up in my head. I fixed both problems back to back.

[Mopar1973Man]

Being with all the miles I'm doing I'm going to redo the valve lash my truck soon. Trying to scrape up every bit of efficiency I can get out of my truck. Even change the BHAF today in hopes of just a wee bit less restriction of airflow. Then finding the loose ground on my Quadzilla and the weird issues it created. 

Edited January 14, 2018 by Mopar1973Man

[Dodgeih]

@Mopar1973Man think that is what was causing all your issues with missing and stuff that you and Nick were trying to constantly track down? 

2 hours ago, rogerash0 said:

Mine had the same symptoms u describe and I was chasing it for awhile but. I think it was from me doing a bad valve lash job my first time. It ran fine when warm, basically what u said to a T minus I never put it on a hill. I also wanna say it started better with the drive pressure leak fixed, but I may be getting that and the valves mixed up in my head. I fixed both problems back to back.

I just re did my valve lash. Took my time as double checked it.. They are spot on.. I just replaced the rubber seals in the return tee... Man that is a pisspoor design! 

[Mopar1973Man]

Pretty sure. I found a few valves on the tight side dead cold. I admit I did the lash beforehand but in a rush so I grab a torque wrench and just set my torque on the jamb nuts and threw the cover on which in turn made a few tight in the lash setting. Last time I double checked my gap after torquing. 

34 minutes ago, Dodgeih said:

I just replaced the rubber seals in the return tee... Man that is a pisspoor design! 

 

330k miles and never leaked. 

[Dodgeih]

Mine have been replaced 2 times under my watch now....

Btw.. #2 still leaking.......

[rogerash0]

I rly thought I did my valve lash spot on the first time so I never thought it was the problem but after the second go around all of a sudden no hard start.

 

Where did you get your rubber seals for that T and what did u pay? They are the only thing I haven't replaced... But mine are ok for now. But I need to do em.

For #2 still leaking loosen all blue line clamps and loosen injector hold downs. Loosen line, wiggle injector with a wrench in the top of it as u snug the line good. Tighten injector hold downs. Tighten line rest of the way . Then do the blue line clamps. In all seriousness I bet u already knew that .

Edited January 15, 2018 by rogerash0

[Dieselfuture]

17 minutes ago, rogerash0 said:

Where did you get your rubber seals for that T and what did u pay?

I got mine at Cummins at $10 a piece  I don't see why a guy can't take a piece of fuel hose that size and cut little pieces at right length 

[Carbur8tr]

I'll just leave this here.  Went for a quick spin and the three tunes I built need a good bit of work so no data or videos for now.  More to come hopefully tomorrow.

 

 

[Dodgeih]

48 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

I got mine at Cummins at $10 a piece  I don't see why a guy can't take a piece of fuel hose that size and cut little pieces at right length 

 

1 hour ago, rogerash0 said:

Where did you get your rubber seals for that T and what did u pay? They are the only thing I haven't replaced... But mine are ok for now. But I need to do em.

First time I got them from case ih for about $6 each, tonight I made them from 1/4"fuel line. Worked great

1 hour ago, rogerash0 said:

For #2 still leaking loosen all blue line clamps and loosen injector hold downs. Loosen line, wiggle injector with a wrench in the top of it as u snug the line good. Tighten injector hold downs. Tighten line rest of the way . Then do the blue line clamps. In all seriousness I bet u already knew that .

I have tried everything but a new o ring... I had a time getting this one to seal after rebuild as well.. I have a feeling the line is bad.. There is a tiny bit of pitting on the end of the line, I even tried sanding it with 800-1000-1500 sand paper... I have tried about a dozen times or more.. On the look for a line. I think @dieselautopower is sending me new o rings soon.... I hope

9 minutes ago, Carbur8tr said:

I'll just leave this here.  Went for a quick spin and the three tunes I built need a good bit of work so no data or videos for now.  More to come hopefully tomorrow.

 

 

Looks good! Looks like a very slight haze??  Mine are about a third the amount of haze compared to my 6x.013"

[Ekillionc9]

im only on page 7 as ive just found this thread.  Ive been quiet for a while now.  I have  fuel boss mechanical pump setup i have a quad and a set of dap 7x11 sac. injectors and quad are great. truck starts way smoother and idles quieter.  I have the 6 speed and i have an offidle problem that i nearly have dialed out with the quad. It involves fueling and timing adjustments. i have noticed however that it idles most of the time at 15.5 deg timing. the few times it drops to 11.6 it drives and takes off way smoother and antistall works great.  hpw do i adjust idle timing?  im interested in some testing and whatnot but need help with a dual disk clutch and headstuds for the project.

[rogerash0]

Sounds like u should make your own thread. I would think a sensor is cranky if your seeing that much variation of timing at idle. I went thru and replaced em all with Wells sensors , made in the USA from AutoZone. Their documentary of their apps sensor on YouTube made me a fan.

 

I heard the T seals were pricey, that's why I asked. I'm surprised 1/4" line worked.

 

On the leaky #2, do u torque it to spec or make it tight/hella tight? I am a fan of always using new orings. I'd be curious to hear if they fix your problem. I even bought new connector tubes a second time after having bought new ones originally... And of course they were the same. Ddp originally then bd for cheaper. I had the same problem. Did the same thing, sanding it down. Overall found it critical to snug the line first then do injector then finish snugging.

Edited January 15, 2018 by rogerash0