Vulcan DS1-2 Draw Straw Upgrade

[Leaky88]

Hello,

I'm certain many have changed out the Draw Straw to 1/2" but I don't seem to be finding discussion on it. 

Could someone please direct me to a discussion or documentation on doing it?

 

Thanks.

 

Leaky

[Mopar1973Man]

I'm sure someone has done that upgrade.

 

I've done the old school draw straw. Still to this day no issues 12 years later.

[Leaky88]

On ‎9‎/‎10‎/‎2017 at 2:15 PM, Mopar1973Man said:

I'm sure someone has done that upgrade.

 

I've done the old school draw straw. Still to this day no issues 12 years later.

Moparman,

And the "Old School Draw Straw" is...

 

 

Thanks

Leaky

[Mopar1973Man]

33 minutes ago, Leaky88 said:

Moparman,

And the "Old School Draw Straw" is...

 

 

Thanks

Leaky

 

Not installed in the basket

 

 

 

 

[dripley]

My pick up is in the basket with a kit from AD.to replace the in tank pump. Still working flawlessly after 7 years. Lost a pump but never the pick up. There is more than one way to pick up the fuel but I have no experience with the DS. My pick up is only 3/8".

[notlimah]

Here's a thread of mine with my fuel upgrades in it. 

 

 

[Leaky88]

Thanks Guys,

 

I appreciate everyone's input.

 

Leaky

[Leaky88]

I always have more questions.

 

-Does anyone know of a case where this MOD was done, and later changed back for some reason? Believe one reason was because

it required a certain level of fuel in tank to prevent the introduction of air.

-Some raise the bed to service the module, others lower tank.   Would appreciate hearing PRO's and CONS of each.   

Lastly, is it best to re-plumb entire return line with 7/16 or is it necessary? 

 

Thanks.

 

Leaky

[trreed]

- I don't know of a case where a DS was removed to alleviate air induction issues.  I do know of a few people who did run their return lines down to the bottom of the basket to stop the fuel from foaming.

- I raised the bed on my truck.  It was easier for me, as I have a short bed, but the things you gotta look out for are the filler neck, and I also have a gooseneck, so there are extra steps for me to lift it. (pic related)

- I didn't replumb the return line and I have had no issues so far.  

[dripley]

I dropped the tank. At the time I did not think about raising the bed. I only about 4 gallons the first and about 8  or 9 the second, if you have a lot fuel in the tank it will be more difficult. I put cribbing under the tank, took the 2 straps off and let it rest on the cribbing then just removed the layers of cribbing. I think it is as much a preference thing as to how you go about it. You lay back more pulling the tank and not with the bed raised.

 I have heard of folks having quarter tank issues with the DS but I am willing to bet they were cut to short when installed. Thats about the only way they can suck air. My pickup is in the basket with kit that came with my AD to remove the in tank pump. I did not re plumb the return line and have had no issues with it in the 7 years or so it has been on there. I think either way you do it is good if you follow the instructions and use some common sense while installing.

[Dieselfuture]

You'll have more PSI swing if you live Factory Return, I returned mine in half inch all the way to bottom of basket. That is from lift pump, and from VP and injectors still in the same place and size as Factory. 

[Mopar1973Man]

Be careful with the frame mounted pump. Coming home from a fire late at night I must of caught a rock in the road in the dark. Needless to say the tire flipped the rock up and hit the frame rail and made a hell of a thump. Left a mark where the rock hit the frame. I'm glad my pump wasn't mounted on the frame because I would of be dead in the road with missing filters. 

 

Edited September 14, 2017 by Mopar1973Man

[notlimah]

I dropped the tank last time but if/when I end up removing this the basket, I'll just lift the bed. I'd also suggest running 1/2in lines for the pickup and return lines to and from the lift pump. The stock diameter return lines for the VP and injectors are ok and you shouldn't have flow issues with those.

 

As far as modifying the fuel basket then returning to stock, I'm not sure it's possible unless you replaced the basket itself with a brand new stock one, and as long as you didn't rip any of the old lines off the truck (which you don't need to do btw) so I suppose it's possible, but seems like more work then just leaving it 'modified.'

 

@trreed If what's in your pic was installed, I'd be interested to hear if your truck cranks slightly longer when starting for the first time after sitting nose up over night with 1/2 tank of fuel or less. I really think that's the reason mine does, but have only been able to test that theory with my truck.

[trreed]

@notlimah that picture was pre- 1/2" return install.  The new return line goes deeper into the basket, and I do notice some slight cavitation at the 1/2 tank mark. (though 1/2 tank on the gauge for me is about 25 out of 34 gallons).  I'll see if I can get a test done this weekend sometime.

[notlimah]

I was more wondering about the return line from the VP/injectors. I have a 1/2in return from the FASS as well, just think the short return line is what's causing the problem about half-ish tank parked uphill in my driveway.

[trreed]

See, I never had an issue with cavitation when my return was as pictured above (both stock locations used as returns).  The cavitation issue I was chasing turned out to be a faulty water separator.  Now that I ran the 1/2" return right to the top of the basket, I only have cavitation at the 1/2 tank mark.  

[015point9]

(Op is going with draw straw, not a basket...just like Moparman's pic... above I believe)

 

But being were talking about baskets... I'll share my $3,000 mistake while snowbirding with our trailer in Yuma when my FASS broke. Might be some nuggets of info fro newbies like me. My old FASS was Installed in 2005 and about 60,000 miles on it. My fuel tank ended up with a draw straw in front of tank and a JB welded fuel module with a FASS draw straw glued inside the fuel module and finally a FASS sump. Also included was a 3 foot section of schedule 40 PVC pipe.  Yep,  That was final blow that made me take an interest in fixing my truck myself.  So,  I don't know much.  However when we finally got it home (Seattle) and the trip back up north to Seattle also includes the sump leaking.  I joined this web site to learn and to correct all the errors (mechanics?) made .   In fixing and correcting all the errors and with guidance of the helpful people here.  I needed couple fittings to replace PVC pipe and Vulcan diesel is somewhat close, so I drove down to him.  Took my fuel module with me, with module with the draw straw glued to the inside of it.  Eric tried to fix what (mechanics?) screwed up in Yuma.  Great guy Eric is and knows his stuff.  He basically used my old module as a frame or outside shell and made one of his modules out of it.  But in the end mine was to messed up, so bought a new one from him.  

 

In the process Eric made it clear to me, the returns lines should go into basket for "best" results.  To prove his point, he pulled the screen end off one of his and ran some water out of a faucet directly into the screen part at the bottom of module.  Showed me how fuel drains slower out of the basket, which keeps more fuel available to be sucked up, while not preventing 1/4 tank issues but helping anyways.  (See pic below) Also pointed out the lines coming down are bent for a reason.  Fuel funnels down to basket with less of a splash, which makes less bubbles and foam.  Also I was lucky enough to buy a used fuel tank from Eric.  Just about done installing, (only took about a year so far, with other things in life going on)  

 

Still have old tank in car port.  Thinking about making into a $3,000 planter.  Taking a look at the mistakes the so called "mechanics" made...the draw straw that was glued into the module and the draw straw at other end of tank were cut about 4 inches from the bottom. (NOT like Mopars excellent pic above) the draw straw in tank also was not air tight.  It leaked air where it connects to the bulk head fitting, Teflon pipe was cut on about a 45 degree angle.  On the sump drain...The screws were torqued so tight, 2 screws were striped.  FASS did sell me new "metal shoe" for the inside of the tank,  and 3 of those plastic gromets/washers were cracked because of to much torque, which let the "O" ring start leaking around CA and OR border.  For anybody installing a FASS sump...tighten bolts  finger tight,  then with allen wrench, with the end of allen wrench pointing at 3:00 o'clock position turn to 6:00 position, according to FASS, and that worked good for me.  For what it's worth I'll never have a sump again. Little alone a 3 foot section of PVC pipe from the sump at back of tank to front of tank, then hooked up to push on fittings and fuel hose. We actually bought some diapers and duct taped diapers to the sump, one gas stations raised hell about us leaking fuel.  I could only fill up, till the other leak at bulk head fitting started leaking,  then drive till gauge was above 1/4.  Then park across the street from a gas station and pull off old diaper and put on new diaper.  And it is hard to get duct tape to stick with diesel involved, then drive into gas station fill up and go. Baling wire from a home depot worked better.  

 

 

 

Edited September 15, 2017 by 015point9

[Dieselfuture]

Yeap, I don't let anyone toch my truck for these reasons. I was wondering about diapers on the side of the highway before cause I've seen them, now I know. 

[dripley]

@015point9 That is pretty much what my AD kit did for my module except that I removed the in tank pump and the little rubber flapper in the bottom of the basket. Works great. The lift pump will suck the tank dry. I have put 35 gallons in it on a very few occasions.