New Issue P0230 - What should I do next?

[leety]

Every new day brings a new discovery!!

 

So today I destupided (it's the blond streaks I can't help it) and learned from this site, that I was exiting the turn key switch 3x trick do dump codes too soon, as a result I was missing out on all the fun of getting the 2nd code.

 

I pulled 2 codes from the PCM I got a P1693 and from the ECU I got a P0230.

 

Mind you, I was unable to pull these codes with any ODB2 scan tool.  I've tried 3 different ones.  I still can't pull either of those codes with and ODB2  scan tool, even with the connector disconnected.

 

I followed these instructions and when I took off the connector, and I was super careful about it, the yellow wire broke off right at the connector.

I was unable to get a reading for ohms of any kind when measuring the ground pin on the fuel transfer pump connector at the unit.

 

The weird thing is the truck was seemingly running okay prior to all this.  I had just changed the fuel filter and got a fuel pressure reading of 14-15 psi.

 

So the question is should I just decommission this poorly engineered pump scenario and move forward with a FASS Fuel system and upgrade to 1/2" lines rather than fighting the battle to fix this one?

 

 

 

[Dieselfuture]

If you're still using factory lift pump unless it's a 12valve that has a mechanical one on the block, I recommend going with an aftermarket one. Fass, air dog, or mechanical like fuel boss or something similar. If you had no power to lift pump the truck would still start and run because vp will pull it's own fuel but it's only sufficient enough for idling and not for prolonged periods. I'm using fass 150 titanium and it's been fine past few years but I also only put maybe 10k a year on it. Before I ordered it I called fass and asked a bunch of questions and supposedly they put them through some harsh environments and they claimed they used them on semis and gotten over a million miles worth, but again what wouldn't you say to sell something. 1/2" lines are definitely worth it but need to be done right. 

[leety]

Makes sense.  I have a 24 valve.  I think I like the Fass, because, well easier to install.  Do you know if there is any good info on the 1/2" line install so I can make sure that is done right?

[Dieselfuture]

Fill out your signature so we all know what we're working with. 

When I did mine I just googled big line kit and combined some ideas. Po of my truck already put a bigger fitting in vp that comes out to 1/2" jic and a draw straw in tank that was cut too short so I modified fuel basket with Vulcan drawstraw 5 kit, it replaces in tank pumps, now I believe it only works if your truck been to dealer when they had a recall and installed new fuel baskets. You can still modify a regular one but I don't know if draw straw 5 kit will work as good, I personally don't see why you couldn't make it work. If you leave in cold climate and want to leave factory filter canister for extra filtration and a heater, then you also need fittings for it to up size to a 1/2. I took mine off and just relying on fass filters. Don't get quick connect fittings, use jic. Returned fuel from vp and back of the head stay same, they T together and return to fuel basket. Jic fittings used are usually for a push on hose, so you really don't need clamps, they can be challenging to push on all the way especially with cheaper hose.     http://www.vulcanperformance.com/mobile/

@notlimah where did you get your draw straw 5 from that came with 2 bulkhead fittings 

Edit. If my fass ever died prematurely I will be putting a mechanical one on.

Edited December 22, 2017 by Dieselfuture

[notlimah]

Got mine from Vulcan! ?

[Mopar1973Man]

I've still got my 12 year old AirDog 150 going yet. Still holding 15-17 PSI of fuel pressure.

[leety]

2 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

I've still got my 12 year old AirDog 150 going yet. Still holding 15-17 PSI of fuel pressure.

 

Are you running that with a stock truck?   My goal is to fuel economy + reliability.  Would a 100 make more sense for that program?  Not sure how to figure that which model to choose.

 

 

[JAG1]

My AD 100 has worked well for about 50,000 miles. I've had to adjust the regulator a couple times turning the pressure back up as It got older. I'm now switching to the AD 150 because if a pump does not have to work as hard it should last longer.

 

1/2 inch lines help the pump not work as hard too I guess.

Edited December 22, 2017 by JAG1

[015point9]

While i don't have much experience i recently did what you are planning.  Planning out project takes some thought.  Lots of past threads on here and YouTube.  My old fass broke after 11 years and 65k miles.  New airdog is good but if you need any tech questions  airdog is lacking.  Fass in my opinion is much better in customer service.  No matter which you get...don't forget to register.  That is first question both of them ask if you call them.

The Airdog I got came with pump in middle of hose length.  I like pumps to pump and not suck,  so I mounted it closer to tank on my old fass bracket.   Not to mention the airdog plastic mounting block didn't appeal to me.  Most of my quick disconnects are now brass threaded fittings.  With  shut off "full port" turn valves that come in handy when changing filters and  keeping diesel baths to a minimum and all 1/2 inch.  Both of my return lines are going back into basket.  Vulcan sells a carter pump with fittings that if/when pump quits down the road somewhere you can just change fuel line to Carter pump and swap elec wire.  Takes about 15 min and that way you're not stuck who knows where. About $80.00 I think.  I carry mine under back seat.  Puts out only 7-10 psi but you're not stuck in middle of somewhere.   (I got stuck in RV park and ended up with bad mechanic)  Give some thought to fuel module.  Use cheap harbor freight step drill on plastic to keep plastic from splitting.  While Vulcan is 3 hours away (and mail is 2 days) for me.   My push lock and bulkhead fittings are from a  hydraulic hose repair place.  Dropping tank looked harder than it was.  ( I have to drop again sometime to fix fuel gauge) 

Starting up with bone dry fuel line and filters and without cracking couple injectors lines.   It took me 5 times...crank starter 25 sec, cool down 45 sec then repeat before signs of life, then about 20 seconds to run smooth.

Vulcan treats you right after the sell.  (But he hasn't answered is phone last couple days...i need more filters.  Might be vacation over holidays?)

Everything is stock on mine.

Edited December 22, 2017 by 015point9

[JAG1]

Air Dog treats me good. They got wind of my Fuel pressure problem. Sent me another 150 just in case. I found out the problem was an air leak. So Then they said if you have an old AD 100 on your other truck you will need another one soon so just keep the other 150 for future. That's pretty nice of them guys to do that. I always talked with then easily during afternoon business hours. Never called during morning rushes. 

Edited December 22, 2017 by JAG1

[dripley]

FWIW when I put my AD on I did jjot know squat. I did not have to think it out, just bought the pump with a kit to ditch my in tank pump. That took a week. Took me a couple months to find a weekend to do it. Then wango bango its on the truck, quick disconnects nd all. Lost the pump about 3 years and AD replaced it under warranty. Everything else is as it was when I installed it.

[GSP7]

You like them plastic "quick disconnects" with the rubber o rings inside ?

 or would you rather have steel JIC fittings?

[dripley]

When they start giving me troube I will swap them out, until then I can live with them. I have lived with them 7 years so far.

[leety]

What do you guys think about setting up a switchable on-board secondary back up pump system.

 

Like having the Air Dog factory replacement installed as a back up to the Fass or AD bigger system mounted in the rear as the primary pump.

 

My IT background tells me some redundancy might save the life of a VP44 at some point along with making sure one never gets stuck out in the middle of nowhere, my favorite place to be :-)

7 minutes ago, GSP7 said:

You like them plastic "quick disconnects" with the rubber o rings inside ?

 or would you rather have steel JIC fittings?

Can you please tell me more about the fittings options?

[GSP7]

11 minutes ago, leety said:

Can you please tell me more about the fittings options?

 I dont know anything about the AD fittings except looking at the pictures online

 

I have all JIC fittigs on my truck I replaced all the banjos with

 

[leety]

Just now, GSP7 said:

 I dont know anything about the AD fittings except looking at the pictures online

 

I have all JIC fittigs on my truck I replaced all the banjos with

 

Those look cool!  I'll look into them thank you!!!

[dripley]

That's what I used on the big line kit.

[leety]

18 minutes ago, dripley said:

That's what I used on the big line kit.

Where did you get the big line kit?

[Mopar1973Man]

1 minute ago, leety said:

Where did you get the big line kit?

 

Vulcan Performance sells the big line kit for the stock filter to the VP44 injection pump.

http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Universal-Big-Line-Filter-to-Injection-Pump-Kit-p/ffipn375.htm

[leety]

4 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Vulcan Performance sells the big line kit for the stock filter to the VP44 injection pump.

http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Universal-Big-Line-Filter-to-Injection-Pump-Kit-p/ffipn375.htm

Thanks this is a 3/8 line and I was reading somewhere that a 1/2" line upgrade was the cool thing to do for reliability.  

 

Looks like this kit goes form the transfer/pick up pump to the VP44 but it seems it would be wise to run the same size line from the gas tank to the transfer/pick up pump.

 

What is your wisdom on the 1/2" line vs 3/8" line?

 

Also what are your thoughts on running line from the gas tank all the way to the VP44 for the entire supply line?