High amp alternator

[outlaw7]

Ok 

[Dieselfuture]

Maybe shoot for 0.1 vac who cares if light comes on when grids are cycling, under normal conditions it will be less, maybe 0.06 with some accessories on. So if you're driving down the road and light comes on and you experience related issues then you know. Definitely need some life testing, there's got to be a guage out there that reads that low on vac. I suppose for testing purpose you can hardwire a fluke and drive around recording readings at different conditions. 

[outlaw7]

Actually a vac dvm circuit was exactly what I have in mind with perhaps a step meteryou know green .03 yellow around .09 red at .11 with an adjustment pre the 3 steps that will raise or lower the scale to tailor to your personal truck . Say the toasters w headlights light the whole tree you hit the trimmer and add a touch of resistance thereby backing you out of the red into yellow number 1 or 2 with a 6 led scale and selectable pre and post ripple cripple , lol the name I'm using for it now so that you can sample not only what your computers and well everything else is seeing but also a pre point to see real world alternator and right now if my math is correct and the parts spec as listed I might be delivering .000 range it's all about size lol

[Mopar1973Man]

Sound reasonable. Could a small 7 segment display be included to report actual seen AC voltage?

[outlaw7]

I'll b ordering parts next week for prototype 1 .I think I'm gonna ginneau pig my gas suburban first just in case I f up

Yes that was essentially what I was suggesting but switchable pre and post or are you suggesting pre and post Moparman? Twin 7 segmant led trees? It's doable but the buss feed would be 16 28awg wires on a mini molex setup not bulky just complex .

Guys this my email address anybody that would like to see how development and r n d are moving shoot an email to  waywardson57@gmail.com   once ive got my act together I'll email my pet project workup to you for further discussion as I feel input from more knowledgeable dodgers will be extremely helpful 

[bigfish95971]

When dealing with it last time.  My Napa store let me test them while running on their test machine, including under load.  I wouild just suggest testing yours on occasion like with oil changes, or if you get a lockup issue, rather than a big investment

[Mopar1973Man]

1 hour ago, outlaw7 said:

Guys this my email address anybody that would like to see how development and r n d are moving shoot an email to  waywardson57@gmail.com   once ive got my act together I'll email my pet project workup to you for further discussion as I feel input from more knowledgeable dodgers will be extremely helpful 

 

@outlaw7

 

Heck, I've got several solutions to this issue. I could give you your own forum area to work from. You could produce an article page for static information. What do you need? I'm willing to provide some space for your project and allow you to manage without being inundated by a mess load of emails. 

 

Let me know how Mopar1973Man.Com can help in this venture... 

Edited January 18, 2018 by Mopar1973Man

[SilverMoose]

This is a great post & I, along with many others I am sure, are watching this closely.  Keep up the great work guys & thanks a bunch.

 

L8tr

d

[outlaw7]

That would be just fine primarily all the leg work will be on my end of course but what I need is input from more knowledgeable people so yeah my own lil space would be great. I intend to share everything I find such as the articles and tech I'm reviewing as well as suppliers thank you for helping me I think this is gonna be some kind of learning experience and as for the investment aspect, besides goin in for an osciliscope which I've been wanting anyway the actual parts are gonna cost about 80 bucks for the DC aspect and prolly another 20 for a case and hardware I already have a bunch of copper bar stock for bussing etc so it's no biggie just let me know where to go n how

[Mopar1973Man]

Give me a call some time... I'll set up what you need.

https://mopar1973man.com/contact/

[Dieselfuture]

[JAG1]

Here is a very interesting article. I hope the link works. It talks about a new type Voltage regulator called 'FET' they are working on. It may be that it can apply to our trucks. Apparently its not just failing diodes or stator wires, just having a high amperage alternator puts out more A/C ripple by it's very nature. So this maybe a solution.

TooSeptST07.pdf

[dripley]

Sounds good but I bet it is pricey.

[Mopar1973Man]

Very interesting article to bad it most likely skip over the older Dodge Ram trucks and Dodge vehicles. 

[JAG1]

11 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

Leave me a little

 

 I think its worth looking into if it helps save electronics. Sounds like it can be adapted since it is basically a voltage regulator and the article did mention diesels

[outlaw7]

from what I saw in the article of the device itself theyre tring to use solid state electronics like they do currently in just about all computer based electronics its actually old tech the r3eal trick is the average computer power supply might throw 4 amps 1@ 12vdc and a couple 5vdc feeds for peripherals and such so to adapt it to an alternators evel of amperage output will require a whole new spec and class of solid state components that just aren't out there yet... believe me ive been looking. I think once they get it alldown pat eventually they will iterally faze out diode rectifier bridges in favor of these more sophisticated i.e. expensive fet setups but once that occurs they will be adaptable to ny alternator setup. the real factor for older units will simply be 1 what the actual market for say an alternator for a 2001 dodge cummins is   2 how much profit can be culled and most importantly 3 that some individual will endeavor to make it a reality. Thank you for the article , great stuff

[skyhigh4by]

This thread has kinda taken off and gone above me but I don’t really want to start another on so... I just tested my alternator. Black lead on an engine ground, Red lead on the alternator field post.

I got a reading of .08 - .09 acv. 

 

Did I I do that right? A lot of this technical electrical stuff is new to me. 

 

Before ever actually testing this alternator I disconnected it and pulled it fuse just to see if my hunting problem went away and it proved that the alt was causing many problems.. 

Edited January 19, 2018 by skyhigh4by

[outlaw7]

so here is what ive got guys . after some series web sahreddin and a lot of reading there are three modern and accepted ways to defeat ac ripple on dc output

number one involves a resister and a capacitor which is neither energy efficient or economical if even physically possible for this

number two by far a more reasonable and doable approach is the age old choke a wire wrapped around a magnetic core that removes ac from the circuit now obviously your gona lose alittle with this but the key word is a little not a lot some where in the neighborhood of 2 to 3% in voltage drop and the samr for amperage output which is acceptable considering the benefits.

 

number three is the good ole capacitor which removes ac by simpoly stiffening the power supply a capacitor at base works like a storage battery.... a very fast storage battery. when voltage across the capacitors + terminal is higher than the rated discharge of the capacitor itself the capacitor either takes on dc voltage , ie charge state or it sits idle doing absolutely nothing.

now once say you hit the key and the toasters light off or once voltage traveling across the + terminal of the capacitor is lower than the rated discharge of the capacitor in this case 12 volts dc then the capacitor discharges suppling voltage to make up for the sudden dip in voltage on the system. so now what used to really harm the alternator and batterys has all the juice it needs to do its job without ever dropping below a set threshold which is exactly what our trucks need.

s an after thought because of this constant voltage supply reservoir ac ripple is numerically reduced because a capacitor also limits or stops the flow of ac while permit dc to flow freely so its two problems or birds with one stone right

something for nothing.... whats the down side

first and foremost capacitors are dangerous..... let me put that another way.......if not properly handled they can and will kill you period  dead......... let that sink in...........................

these liul pups discharge theyre whole reservoir to ground when possible ie touch it with your pinky while standing on terra firma... little caps will just sting big capacitors like the 4 to 8 farad designs that will be necessary to do the job on our trucks will kill you. which is probably why current oem engineers don't employ them to much lawsuit risk. now with that sai capacitors can be your bestest buddy ever .

1 rock solid ac ripple less straight dc power all day every day with no delay

2 brighter lights

3 no bouncycomputer stuff

4 wont buy you beer well cant have it all

what you need to know

any time you are going to service the dc systm you need to discharge the capacitorsfirst

on my project I'm building I will include a discharge or service switch that will safely and completely discharge the caps allowing service of the system

 

now number 4 , and this is where the plotthickens, is the combination of methods two and threein aseries parallel arrangement tbc..........gotta run a kid home

 

and were back......

 as I was previously discoursing the combination of the two components if calculateded correctly should yield as close to a 0 ac ripple as is possible. which is why I'm considering both units now it is quite possible that the large 4 to 8 farad capacitor alone will do the job and it is the first device I'm going to play with but there is possibility even if the cap doesn't pull it all

the crappy paint picture above shows a basic layoput of the components in  thir respecticve locations

they work as follows

 

the alternator generates current 13.6vdc to be exact it flows out over the red cable into the choke coil which is available in amperages upto 600 amps @ 12vdc so theres lots of choices . the choke tames ac ripple via magnetic field generation as the voltage moves through the coil there is a slight fee in both voltage and current but its negligible like 2 to 3%which most of you lose more than that with your nasty corroded battery cables so no big deal. next with a greatly reduced ac ripple current thje voltage moves on to the capacitor which again stops ac current while passing on dc. as a bonus the capacitor acts like a tank for current how much of a reservoir is deteremined by the farad rating or capacitance ( hence the term capacitor) the benefits which I described earlier are 10 fold in terms of dc system health and performance.

sky highyes you did sir

 

AC/DC (power)

 

Capacitors

 

Voltage

 

Physics of Everyday Life

 

Electricity

 

Electronics

 

Electrical Engineering

 

How does a capacitor or an inductor filter out the AC ripple in a rectifier to give a pure DC voltage?

 

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7 Answers

 

 

 

Mahesh Sapre, "Loves to play with electrons"

Answered Jan 30, 2016 · Author has 142 answers and 139.9k answer views

 

 

The basic property of a capacitor is to prevent any sudden change in the voltage.

A capacitor does this by absorbing the excess of voltage and supplying it whenever it is required. This accounts for several charging and discharging cycles occurring in the capacitor.

Thus, this leads to clearing off the ripples by making the output waveform quite smooth.

In fact the capacitor bypasses the AC component and makes it flow into the

 

 

Aditya SundarAnalog Design Engineer @ Texas Instruments, BITSGian, Biomedical engineer

 

Studied at Baldwin Boys High School

 

Lives in Mumbai, Maharashtra, India

 

284.8k answer views4.5k this month

 

 

Aditya Sundar, Analog Design Engineer @ Texas Instruments, BITSGian, Biomedical engineer

Answered Feb 19, 2015 · Author has 168 answers and 284.8k answer views

 

 

Capacitors offer low impedance to AC signals and high impedance to DC. Hence a capacitor connected in parallel would basically send the AC ripple to the ground and allow on DC to pass. Ref- Z(w)= 1/jWC

An inductor offers high impedance to Ac signals and 0 to DC signals. Hence connecting it in series to the ripple will allow only DC to pass and not AC signals.   Ref- Z(w)=jWL.

[WiscoRedkneck]

31 minutes ago, skyhigh4by said:

This thread has kinda taken off and gone above me but I don’t really want to start another on so... I just tested my alternator. Black lead on an engine ground, Red lead on the alternator field post.

I got a reading of .08 - .09 acv. 

 

Did I I do that right? A lot of this technical electrical stuff is new to me. 

 

Before ever actually testing this alternator I disconnected it and pulled it fuse just to see if my hunting problem went away and it proved that the alt was causing many problems.. 

Sounds right to me, also doesn't sound good for your alternator.

After an overhaul of my electrical system at 341,000 miles including larger wiring and bigger alternator(Nation's, still need to test now I'm curious) I noticed an improvement in headlight issues but not resolved I will say running at high idle it's almost unnoticeable. 

Now since I have done the repair I try to only let the truck sit on high idle if it's going to stay running. 

I can vary my high idle speed and it's set for 1100 RPM right now will that be sufficient spin speed to cool the alternator?  

The truck only idles in the morning for 10 minutes and/or if we're picking up materials or a trailer

[skyhigh4by]

3 minutes ago, WiscoRedkneck said:

Sounds right to me, also doesn't sound good for your alternator.

After an overhaul of my electrical system at 341,000 miles including larger wiring and bigger alternator(Nation's, still need to test now I'm curious) I noticed an improvement in headlight issues but not resolved I will say running at high idle it's almost unnoticeable. 

Now since I have done the repair I try to only let the truck sit on high idle if it's going to stay running. 

I can vary my high idle speed and it's set for 1100 RPM right now will that be sufficient spin speed to cool the alternator?  

The truck only idles in the morning for 10 minutes and/or if we're picking up materials or a trailer

I think a charging system overhaul is also in order for me before I can carry on trying to diagnose any other problems the truck has. 

 

I actually just watched mopar1973mans video on ac testing and then went and did it again myself this time using the passenger side negative terminal for my ground instead of and exhaust manifold bolt like before. This time it was bouncing from .09v all the way up to .12v up and down it never settled out any place in particular. This alternator is only about 6 months old and 2 new interstate batteries went in at the same time. The alt charges over 14dcv but clearly has WAY to much ac leakage. It looks like a reman denso unit and it likely had too much acv right out of the box and has only gotten worse since.