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Exhaust manifold


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Agreed.  Stock.  

As for getting it off, I would definitely soak the turbo mounting bolts in PB Blaster a few days before attempting to remove them.  And the manifold bolts I'd soak in PB Blaster as well and then attempt to remove them when the motor is a touch warm (120* or so)

Edited by trreed
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Don't use a wrench or a ratchet. If you can use an impact gun. Better chances of shocking it loose with impact than pulling torque on an already rusted fastener. I agree lots of PB blaster for a couple of days soaking. Block Heater is good for holding the temp up for you around 100-110*F.

Edited by Mopar1973Man
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Everything is breakable.  It all boils down to the strength of the material being used (in this case quality of the cast and wall thickness), and use.  Guys who drive hard and shut the truck down right away will eventually see cracks due to excessive latent heat.  Guys who let the truck cool to 300-350* will usually see a longer service life.  

That being said, I don't like Dorman parts either.  In my experience, they are usually made cheaply and perform cheaply. 

Edited by trreed
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7 minutes ago, trreed said:

Everything is breakable.  It all boils down to the strength of the material being used (in this case quality of the cast and wall thickness), and use.  Guys who drive hard and shut the truck down right away will see cracks due to heat cycling.  Guys who let the truck cool to 300-350* will usually see a longer service life.  

That being said, I don't like Dorman parts either.  In my experience, they are usually made cheaply and perform cheaply. 

 

Some of us are even smarter... Look at the turbo timer EGT setting.

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9 hours ago, trreed said:

Everything is breakable.  It all boils down to the strength of the material being used (in this case quality of the cast and wall thickness), and use.  Guys who drive hard and shut the truck down right away will eventually see cracks due to excessive latent heat.  Guys who let the truck cool to 300-350* will usually see a longer service life.  

That being said, I don't like Dorman parts either.  In my experience, they are usually made cheaply and perform cheaply. 

 

Agreed everything is breakable and quality is generally the main variable why things do.

But over the many years I've always understood exhaust manifold cracking was nothing to do with shut down temperatures but rather because of high EGT's while pulling up hills and then going downhill off the throttle which rapidly cools the exhaust temperatures.  So that said, Its been suggested that people with exhaust brakes experience less manifold cracking problems simply because the exhaust brake keeps the EGT's hotter on the downhill ride.  Less extreme hot to extreme cool temperature fluctuations means less cracking. :thumbup2:

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