Performance Upgrades

[Me78569]

what is your hp goal?   7 x .012's ( even though I ran them at 450 hp) are really meant for 550+ hp setups.   


7 x .010's are a well rounded and easily tuniable setup for 500 hp

[pepsi71ocean]

14 hours ago, Imaybail said:

Well I got my order in for the Quad ADR and the “Used VP 7x9 sac 100 rebuilt, Bosch body” injectors.  

So when I get everything back together I’ll be back with some updated info.

Got to make sure I do a good job on the install, and go ahead and get valves done while I am in there.  Pretty excited to see how it comes out.

 

What are you setting your valves to? 

 

If your new to swapping injectors I have a video article in the database. The way I do it usually never leaks. 

[gipperkid]

5 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

what is your hp goal?   7 x .012's ( even though I ran them at 450 hp) are really meant for 550+ hp setups.   


7 x .010's are a well rounded and easily tuniable setup for 500 hp

Realistically, I would say 400-450 hp. No more than 500 hp.

[Me78569]

go with 7 x .010's then  they will flow more than enough for your goals and be much easier to tune

[gipperkid]

9 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

go with 7 x .010's then  they will flow more than enough for your goals and be much easier to tune

 
The 7 x .010's would be well suited with one the above mentioned turbos:
 

https://www.dieselautopower.com/dap-screaming-eagle-sxe-fmw-2nd-gen-fit-57-65-14-t3-gated-hx40

 

https://www.dieselautopower.com/dap-screaming-eagle-sxe-fmw-2nd-gen-fit-57-65-12-t3-gated-hx40

 

[Me78569]

yes

 

7 x .010's are a well rounded injector for really any setup under 550 hp

[Dieselfuture]

32 minutes ago, gipperkid said:

 
The 7 x .010's would be well suited with one the above mentioned turbos:
 

https://www.dieselautopower.com/dap-screaming-eagle-sxe-fmw-2nd-gen-fit-57-65-14-t3-gated-hx40

 

https://www.dieselautopower.com/dap-screaming-eagle-sxe-fmw-2nd-gen-fit-57-65-12-t3-gated-hx40

 

I'd go with 62/68/12 for your setup and goal if you using 7x10

And this is only my opinion, when it comes to this decisions you'll have to make the final choice.

[gipperkid]

35 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

I'd go with 62/68/12 for your setup and goal if you using 7x10

And this is only my opinion, when it comes to this decisions you'll have to make the final choice.

I have thought about the 62/68 but I thought there would be lag with a large single like that. Hence the new SX-E 57/65 or a 62/65.

[dieselautopower]

7x.010 is best paired with a 62mm unless you are not running the programmer on kill.  People often can make 500HP with 125HP 7x.0095 sac and adrenaline with a 62mm 

[Imaybail]

4 hours ago, pepsi71ocean said:

 

What are you setting your valves to? 

 

If your new to swapping injectors I have a video article in the database. The way I do it usually never leaks. 

I guess the standard values, .10 and .20, right?  Have always done my overheads that way on my 3rd gens.  

I have viewed your articles, thanks!

[Mopar1973Man]

2 minutes ago, Imaybail said:

I guess the standard values, .10 and .20, right?

 

Correct. But you might add just a touch more to them. When you are running a lot of timing there is more flame on the valves and the do expand a bit more. Remember stock ECM the timing dives out to about 12 to 14 degree range. Like myself in the 19 to 21 degree range. EGT's are much lower, boost is lower, but ECT is higher. This means more expansion of gases are working on the piston, cylinder head and cylinder walls. 

 

Might be part of my reason for head gasket failure. Well, I've got ARP studs coming. 

[trreed]

Eh. I run my valves at 8 and 18 respectively and have had it up to 1800*. No issues yet!  Remember, intake has a range of 6 to 16 and exhaust range is like 15 to 30 I think. Cummins spec. 

[gipperkid]

6 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Correct. But you might add just a touch more to them. When you are running a lot of timing there is more flame on the valves and the do expand a bit more. Remember stock ECM the timing dives out to about 12 to 14 degree range. Like myself in the 19 to 21 degree range. EGT's are much lower, boost is lower, but ECT is higher. This means more expansion of gases are working on the piston, cylinder head and cylinder walls. 

 

Might be part of my reason for head gasket failure. Well, I've got ARP studs coming. 

 

Uh oh. When did this problem show itself? I thought with the lower timing range things were safe. 

[Mopar1973Man]

I'm not sure if the timing was the whole problem. I started having coolant leaks on the back of the passenger side of the head. No freeze plug issues. All head gasket. Now talking to local friends they informed me that 300k mark typically head gaskets start to show up. Like even Justin, down at Northwest Machine said the same thing 300k is like the end of the head gasket life and the head start to curl in the back and front. 

 

All right here...

 

 

[Imaybail]

So, I’ve never really heard this before.  You are saying to leave the valves a little loose to allow for increased heat expansion in the head?  I guess that makes sense too.  Who wants to step out there and give me some numbers to use?  I’m all ears at this point.  Just don’t want a lot of racket to deal with in the overhead.

[Mopar1973Man]

Stock: Intake - 0.010" and Exhaust - 0.020"

 

What I tried: - Results in a lopey idle after long highway runs. If too tight it can cause stalling after long highway runs.

Intake - 0.008"

Exhaust - 0.018"

 

Currently: - Resulted so far in a smoother idle and small gain to performance.

Intake - 0.012" 

Exhaust - 0.022" 

 

Cummins Specs span:

Intake - 0.006" to 0.015"

Exhaust - 0.015" to 0.030"

Edited September 19, 2018 by Mopar1973Man

[Imaybail]

Thanks for that, and I will take it into consideration when I get in there.  Might just see what I got now and go from there.

[Dieselfuture]

8 hours ago, Imaybail said:

So, I’ve never really heard this before.  You are saying to leave the valves a little loose to allow for increased heat expansion in the head?  I guess that makes sense too.  Who wants to step out there and give me some numbers to use?  I’m all ears at this point.  Just don’t want a lot of racket to deal with in the overhead.

I was also running 8 and 18 but now I went to 10 and 20. From what I understand valves wear slowly into the seat and tolerances get tighter, but camshaft also wears a little and some what makes up the difference. That's why a lot of people check the valve lash after 100k and they seem to be pretty close.

One thing I will say, after having the machine work done on the head with valve job, I had to readjust my valves as some of them got tighter. @Mopar1973Man might want to consider this. Which you probably already have.

[pepsi71ocean]

I'm running .008 and .018 , and I'll let you know what they are when I readjust them. 

 

I have no complaints other then the truck runs warm egt wise. Although I'm getting my injectors popped and set to 320 so we will see

[Imaybail]

Well, OK, today my DAP injectors and Quad arrived so I need to make my plans to get things installed.

Injectors look good, just checking the tips, it seems that there is some waxy coating or something there.  Do I need to clean these up before I install them?  Solvent just from the outside, or remove nozzles and clean inside out?

Also, bag is marked with a tag, “309”.  Is this the BAR?

 

Quad install looks pretty straightforward, already have a thermocouple in the exhaust, just need to put in the new one, install the trans sending unit, and FP pressure unit.

 

Due to some health issues, won’t be able to tackle this until next week sometime, but it gives me a goal to work towards.  

Do the valves

install the injectors 

install the Quad

enjoy the upgrades!