Hey y'all, wanted a recommendation.  The steering on my Dodge just doesn't feel solid.  I have very little play in my wheel, steering box feels fine.  I haven't jacked it up to check for wheel movement but assume that either the tie rod ends are going out or it's a combo with the drag link.  

 

On to my question.  With the 99 model, is the "Y" steering Linkage version a good replacement or are there any recommendations on the "T" conversion if it's even needed.  Any links to what others have done in the past?  Thanks!

I love the 4th gen "T" steering on my 01. I went with Moog but in retrospect I should have went with the Mopar due to recall issues with Moog. Since you have a 99 you will need a reamer to get the tapers correct in the knuckles to use the 4th gen "T" steering on your 99. You would probably need a new pitman arm also.

 

I've read that there is a "HD" steering for 99's but I didn't pay much attention since it didn't apply to anything I own. Maybe someone else could be of more help with the "99 HD" steering.

Highly recomend “T”. I think for your year truck it’s called HD steering.

When I have to redo my front end I will probably do the T style. 

 

Pretty sure the HD was an option for your year and 98. 

 

T if possible. I don't like the idea of toe change when going over bumps with Y style. 

Still running factory Y Style. My OEM linkage lasted 350k miles. To this day mine is still tight using all NAPA replacement in the front. 

 

The whole problem typically falls on the oversize tires why the Dodge Ram steering gets sloppy. Never had that issue, never ran oversized tires. Matter of fact I'm running undersized tires.

Still have the "Y" style myself - just over 300,000 miles still on original left and right tie rod ends, have replaced center link and drag link once. 

 

Of course I am using those ridiculously small tires recommended by Mopar1973Man and the goofy sticker on my driver's door.

 

- John

The above post was an attempt at humor.

 

- John

Edited December 3, 20186 yr by Tractorman
An attempt at humor...

Thanks @CTcummins24V, this looks like the route in may want to go.

 

@Mopar1973Man, yeah running 37x12.5s so they are big, even when I had 285s on it it still wasn't rigjt, I do feel it more now.  

 

Better check what you have under there OEM.  I think '99's came with T style from the factory.  I wouldn't change.  I did on my '01 and was better but my '02 has y type and is still really good even with quite a few miles and the dreaded O/S tires.   =)

Hm.  Now that know the difference,  I already have the HD "T" style.  Maybe the ball joints are toast, giving me too much play.  

 

Does anyone know if the ends are tapered for the 99?  I know the pitman arm and drag link are from when I put the lift kit on but don't know about the tie rod ends.

Edited December 3, 20186 yr by SavageTusk
Pic

Check everything first. Ball joint test, get 1 wheel off the ground a couple inches, stick a big pry bar under the tire and jack it back and fourth, listen for clunks. Then grab the wheel/tire at 12 and 6 and push/pull in and out for unit bearings/hubs. Then have someone start the truck and move the steering wheel back and fourth while you are looking at the tire rods to see if they are popping out.  

1 hour ago, CTcummins24V said:

Then have someone start the truck and move the steering wheel back and fourth while you are looking at the tire rods to see if they are popping out

 

You will get better "real life" test results if you set the vehicle back onto ground for the tie rod end, center link, drag link, and track bar checks because the joints will have to do some actual work. 

 

I block the rear wheels, set the park brake, and have someone operate the steering wheel back and forth with the engine running while I perform the inspection.

 

I like your method for checking suspension ball joints and wheel bearings.

 

- John

 

-

If you're going to be turning the wheels with the truck not moving I'd recommend stealing some of your wifes old baking sheets and putting them in the tires. Still has weight on all componets without the stress from the rubber trying to stay put on the ground. 

4 hours ago, notlimah said:

If you're going to be turning the wheels with the truck not moving I'd recommend stealing some of your wifes old baking sheets and putting them in the tires.

 

You only need to turn the steering wheel back and forth enough to load the steering linkage (no more than 30 degrees each way).  The friction of the tire to the ground helps to load the linkage.

 

This way you can use your wife's cookie sheets for other things.

 

- John

5 hours ago, Tractorman said:

 

You only need to turn the steering wheel back and forth enough to load the steering linkage (no more than 30 degrees each way).  The friction of the tire to the ground helps to load the linkage.

 

This way you can use your wife's cookie sheets for other things.

 

- John

 

Right, but I’m lazy and it’s easier on all the steering comments so I just drive over them and turn and done lol.

On 12/2/2018 at 6:29 PM, Mopar1973Man said:

Still running factory Y Style. My OEM linkage lasted 350k miles. To this day mine is still tight using all NAPA replacement in the front. 

 

The whole problem typically falls on the oversize tires why the Dodge Ram steering gets sloppy. Never had that issue, never ran oversized tires. Matter of fact I'm running undersized tires.

 

This is correct. Oversized tires do put a lot of extra strain on the steering components. A 12V Cummins by itself weighs ~1100 lbs dry, then add in all of the accessories, front axle, heavy replacement bumper, and you've got a lot of weight on the front tires. Now add in the extra contact area of a 35x12.50 and you're asking a lot from the factory steering.

 

I run 35x12.50's with the T steering and without a steering stabilizer it drives great. I will still be adding hydraulic assist come spring to take the strain off of my steering gear.

The whole reason I'm an owner of a Dodge Cummins was an I lifted my 1972 Power Wagon and then added larger tires and wheels. Then I proceeded to eat the steering boxes, wheel bearings, and wheel joints. Didn't help that it was 4 wheel drum brakes either. I broke more stuff in that front axle than I did in the entire truck. 

 

I made I promise to myself I'd never do that again. I've held that promise now for very long time and still got zero issue with this truck. Funny how that happened.

 

 

@Mopar1973Man I n0t b3 be3ry $mUrt an iZ DurNt LurN 2 WeL

 

That's funny... 

35's are as big as I'm going to go so ball joints shouldn't be an issue. The steering gears on these trucks are marginal at best with factory tires which is why I'm doing the hydraulic assist.