Extended crank to start

[Marcus2000monster]

2 minutes ago, Blueox01 said:

So what kind of HP you think your engine produces? Sorry I'm not up on all the stuff that can be done to these, like v2 tuning, that a Quadzilla? Sorry I seem ignorant.

The V2 tuning is the bees knees if your up to it but me personally I’d rather slap a plug and play tune in and go but for economy reasons the guys here have almost persuaded me to get into this tuning. As far as injectors I have a DAP 75s and I’m not impressed with them. I’m soon pulling the trigger on fresh Bosch RV275s. 

[Dieselfuture]

7 minutes ago, Blueox01 said:

So what kind of HP you think your engine produces? Sorry I'm not up on all the stuff that can be done to these, like v2 tuning, that a Quadzilla? Sorry I seem ignorant.

That's a good question. To the ground I'm just guessing here too. Safe hp probably somewhere in 350 range, if I want to get stupid I'll have to guess 500 or more

Yes v2 is Quadzilla stuff. The only tuner for vp44 engine. No dumb questions around here, I've asked plenty myself.

[Blueox01]

14 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

That's a good question. To the ground I'm just guessing here too. Safe hp probably somewhere in 350 range, if I want to get stupid I'll have to guess 500 or more

Yes v2 is Quadzilla stuff. The only tuner for vp44 engine. No dumb questions around here, I've asked plenty myself.

There used to be a company out of KY, TST that the engineer was a former Cummins/Dodge guy, not sure what happened to them. Sorry they are out of Columbus IN.

Edited December 18, 2018 by Blueox01

[pepsi71ocean]

On 12/13/2018 at 8:40 AM, Mopar1973Man said:

MPG mode with prevent pre-heat of the grid heaters at key on.

 

Who needs grid heaters, i started my dodge up at 20F with my 100's and forgot to even plug it in.

25 minutes ago, Marcus2000monster said:

The V2 tuning is the bees knees if your up to it but me personally I’d rather slap a plug and play tune in and go but for economy reasons the guys here have almost persuaded me to get into this tuning. As far as injectors I have a DAP 75s and I’m not impressed with them. I’m soon pulling the trigger on fresh Bosch RV275s. 

This is very true. The new Quad is the top of the line for VP tuning, Thats not to say you can't get deals on other stuff, but it is indeed the best of all worlds.
 

9 minutes ago, Blueox01 said:

There used to be a company out of KY, TST that the engineer was a former Cummins/Dodge guy, not sure what happened to them. Sorry they are out of Columbus IN.

 

TST Products is still around I think this is their new website

 

https://www.tstproducts.com/faqs.aspx#24Valve

[Blueox01]

11 minutes ago, pepsi71ocean said:

 

Who needs grid heaters, i started my dodge up at 20F with my 100's and forgot to even plug it in.

This is very true. The new Quad is the top of the line for VP tuning, Thats not to say you can't get deals on other stuff, but it is indeed the best of all worlds.
 

 

TST Products is still around I think this is their new website

 

https://www.tstproducts.com/faqs.aspx#24Valve

Yea, I just looked them up, I knew I had driven by their place.

Edited December 18, 2018 by Blueox01

[01_Cummins_4x4]

My friend with his built 02 Cummins engine, just started to get an extended cranking issue a couple days ago. It had never done it before, but it would crank for a lot longer and then fire up and sound normal once it was idling. 

 

What he found was 2 things - He had water in the fuel cup, and his "Water in Fuel" light in the dash was blown out. He has a Pegasys diagnostic tool and he turned the water in fuel light on with it, but it didn't come on in the dash. He drained the fuel filter cup and installed a new fuel filter and now it starts normal again.

[Marcus2000monster]

Could this loss of prime cuase the Lopey idle intermittently? I’m assuming it’s my injectors that are doingnit but thought that the loss of prime issue may be the culprit. 

[Mopar1973Man]

Did you have the injectors pop tested yet?

[Marcus2000monster]

5 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Did you have the injectors pop tested yet?

No. I’m planning to just toss a brand new set of RV275s in as I don’t like the lag of these. 

[dripley]

FWIW when I installed my new RV275's I got an intermittent lopey idle. Went away after a while. I had no extended starts from it though. The truck ran fine and I never paid much attention to it. Whether they are related I could not say.

[Mopar1973Man]

Lag won't change much. Lag is typically a timing issue a lack of retard.

 

When you change throttle from light to heavy quickly you need a good amount of retard to make the flame and expanding fuel on the exhaust stroke to spool the turbo. Once the turbo lights or boost is starting to rise then you need to flip back to advanced timing to keep the fuel burning. If only had some timing control. 

 

Smaller injectors aren't really going to fix this problem. Even your wore out stockers will have the same problem because the pop pressure is too low. The problem is the droplets or mist is too big and taking too much time to convert the fuel to vapor and go bang. This is pop pressure problem. I've got this problem right now my pop pressure is too low and the lag time and fuel atomization is poor.

 

 

[Marcus2000monster]

Hmm maybe I ought to just have my 75s sent in and repopped a little higher. 315 maybe. 

[Mopar1973Man]

1 minute ago, Marcus2000monster said:

Hmm maybe I ought to just have my 75s sent in and repopped a little higher. 315 maybe. 

 

I would have them tested and then talk to @dieselautopower about having them popped. It could be a poor spray pattern.

 

I know its Russian but it shows a clear bad injectors...

 

 

Now notice the good fine mist on this one...

 

[Tractorman]

On ‎12‎/‎12‎/‎2018 at 6:23 PM, dave110 said:

FWIW my toggle switch has been on for over a year now with zero issues other than the 2 hidden codes I never see. I love it. Turn on, pre heat, start, turn off, save alternator. 

 

I have used a toggle switch for operating grid heaters since my truck was new.  My switch is a momentary switch that is  fused to a hot source.  This way I can engage the grid heaters without turning the key to the "on" position.  Being that the switch is "momentary", the switch cannot accidently be left on.  The two codes that are set are inconsequential. 

 

This setup has worked flawlessly for 17 years and over 300,000 miles.  No unnecessary post heat cycles and a lot less stress on the alternator - I wouldn't have it any other way. 

 

- John

 

 

Edited December 20, 2018 by Tractorman
Left out a word

[Mopar1973Man]

Won't work for guys in California or smog control states. @IBMobile will have a grid heater control without error codes very soon.

[Marcus2000monster]

11 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

I would have them tested and then talk to @dieselautopower about having them popped. It could be a poor spray pattern.

 

I know its Russian but it shows a clear bad injectors...

 

 

Now notice the good fine mist on this one...

 

Downtime must be kept to a minimum so i may end up sending my stockers and having them repopped and installing them. I cant pull my sticks and wait a week or more till they get back. 

[Dieselfuture]

10 hours ago, Tractorman said:

This setup has worked flawlessly for 17 years and over 300,000 miles.  No unnecessary post heat cycles and a lot less stress on the alternator - I wouldn't have it any other way. 

I'm with you on that, still need to do this. So from what you said, ecm must trigger power wires to energize coils and not the grounds. This brings another question that I may have asked, did you tie in both positive coil wires to a single switch? So when you push a button you're energizing both grids? 

[Marcus2000monster]

@Dieselfuture While were here i might ask where you bought your t steering setup?

[pepsi71ocean]

11 hours ago, Marcus2000monster said:

Hmm maybe I ought to just have my 75s sent in and repopped a little higher. 315 maybe. 

 

See below.

 

11 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

I would have them tested and then talk to @dieselautopower about having them popped. It could be a poor spray pattern.

FWIW: My older 60HP injectors were popping ok, but I had one injector that was failing, and another one that was on the way. The failure was the pintle needles were starting to bind up inside the injector nozzle. I pulled them apart to clean them and couldn't get them to clean up and the one that was sticking was most likely the cause of my smoke and timing knock.  I tested my spray pattern using brake cleaner and some electrical tape that I used to pack out the straw so it could only go one way. That's how I know the one injector was clogged.

Fast forward to my 100's, They were doing good but popped low. At stock 300bar my 100's were smoke free, and smoked less with my smarty. At 322Bar my 100's show no smoke at all with my smarty.

[Dieselfuture]

Just now, Marcus2000monster said:

@Dieselfuture While were here i might ask where you bought your t steering setup?

Rockauto, it was the Mopar kit.