Fuel Pressure High!

[015point9]

By California truck do you mean one that was sold in California that something done to it or..

one that is legal to sell in California?

 

 

Is there any type of label or sticker that I could tell the two apart?

[Mopar1973Man]

FSM covers the VIN code and body codes and nothing listed for California I could tell. 

[IBMobile]

There is no under the hood label denoting emission controls like you find on gasoline engine models stating if it meets Federal or California standards.  The basic rule for which light duty diesel vehicle to test is 'if it has an ECM/PCM in it then it needs to be tested'.   When the inspection station tests the vehicle they interrogate the ECM/PCM through the OBII port.  If the check engine light is on, a fault code is pending, a fault code is stored, or the monitors are not set the vehicle fails the test.  

 

In the past with just the Fuel Boss running and the electric fuel pump totally disconnected I have seen fault code P0230,  Transfer Pump Circuit  Out Of Range;  this is why I put the relay in for the ECM to trigger and keep the fault code at bay.  I just now tried to induce the P0230 code by removing the lift pump rely and starting the engine with my code reader plugged in to the OBII port.  I found no code set at this time but have left the relay out and will drive it that way to see if code will reappear.  It may take a while because this is the first time in 2 weeks that I've started the engine and it was over 4 week before that.

 

   

[015point9]

1 hour ago, IBMobile said:

There is no under the hood label denoting emission controls like you find on gasoline engine models stating if it meets Federal or California standards.  The basic rule for which light duty diesel vehicle to test is 'if it has an ECM/PCM in it then it needs to be tested'.   When the inspection station tests the vehicle they interrogate the ECM/PCM through the OBII port.  If the check engine light is on, a fault code is pending, a fault code is stored, or the monitors are not set the vehicle fails the test.  

 

In the past with just the Fuel Boss running and the electric fuel pump totally disconnected I have seen fault code P0230,  Transfer Pump Circuit  Out Of Range;  this is why I put the relay in for the ECM to trigger and keep the fault code at bay.  I just now tried to induce the P0230 code by removing the lift pump rely and starting the engine with my code reader plugged in to the OBII port.  I found no code set at this time but have left the relay out and will drive it that way to see if code will reappear.  It may take a while because this is the first time in 2 weeks that I've started the engine and it was over 4 week before that.

 

   

 

Thanks for the above.  

If I have it right in my mind you're also working on some type of work around... 

if you disconnect the grid heaters the trouble code check light wont come on?

[dripley]

Mine are disconnected at the battery. No light no code. Have been for 2.5 years.

[015point9]

1 minute ago, dripley said:

Mine are disconnected at the battery. No light no code. Have been for 2.5 years.

 

Okay didn't know that I thought.  I've been waiting on doing the WT wiring mod.  And waiting for wiring work around for grid heaters.  Only wanted to mess with the wiring one time with the hood up.  I guess I was wrong there.

[IBMobile]

I have a switch to turn on the grid heaters or run the signal through some  resistors to fool the ECM.

I'm working on another simpler bypass that I hope to install on one or both of @JAG1's trucks.  If it works OK then I'll do a write up on it around the end of May.

[Mopar1973Man]

8 hours ago, 015point9 said:

if you disconnect the grid heaters the trouble code check light wont come on?

 

Same here. Mine are currently disconnected. Powerwise at the battery. But if you disconnect the grid heater solenoid leads yes it will throw a code. 

[JAG1]

10 hours ago, dripley said:

Mine are disconnected at the battery. No light no code. Have been for 2.5 years.

Both my 2nd gens grid heaters are disconnected at the battery for at least two years. I did get a related code on one truck after a cold month of starting w/o the grids and showed up. I cleared the code and hasn't come back even with grids still disconnected and some cold starts.

Edited March 30, 2019 by JAG1

[Dieselfuture]

I'm enjoying my push button for greeds, but no smog testing here

[Mad Bomber]

I have a electric sensor with about 3.5 feet and problems for the last 170K. When it was installed 

[Mopar1973Man]

5 minutes ago, Mad Bomber said:

I have a electric sensor with about 3.5 feet

 

Need more distance. Farther the better. 

 

Are you using a snubber or needle valve? If you using a needle valve you need to add a snubber. Most electric gauges have electronics to dampen the needle movement. Snubbers seem to do very well with electric gauges just make sure to buy a quality snubber like an ISSPro or Autometer that is a sintered metal snubber. The order you want is...

 

Tap point -> Needle valve -> Snubber -> 5 foot or more of 1/8 air brake line -> sensor

 

[Mad Bomber]

No snubbed at all. Just a tee at the injection pump and a tee for a drain at the top to remove air from lines

[Mopar1973Man]

That's why it failed. The pulses beat the sensor to death. You need at least a snubber. I kept the needle valve just in case there was a plumbing leak and I could close out that part of the system and continue driving. 

[Mad Bomber]

Needle valve is only to drain air out. My psi is rock solid.

[Mopar1973Man]

1 minute ago, Mad Bomber said:

Needle valve is only to drain air out. My psi is rock solid.

 

Not required. Air has zero impact. The pulses from the VP44 are beating the sensor to death. In the old days, we used the needle valve for adjustable dampening. Back then the needle valve was mere $18 buck from NAPA but now gone way up in price. This why I suggest the snubbers now because technology has improved quite a bit since then. 

[Mad Bomber]

Air causes my gauge to not function my sensor is electric and was from 2000 so maybe they build more quality into it

[Mopar1973Man]

 

So is mine. ISSPro EV2. In my case just changing the fuel filter will push air back up the line. No issues even starting the system over completely dry. 

 

You see... Tap point, brass elbow, needle valve, ISSPro snubber, PTC fitting, then 5 feet of 1/8" air brake line back to the sensor above which is the brass sensor. With the PTC fittings, you can release the air brake line from the fitting to purge air if needed. Push down the collar and it releases the air brake line. Push the tubing back in and it self-locks and seals. 

[CAMG3X]

That's a pretty sweet set-up MoparMan! What size PTC fittings are you using for the male PTC going into the snubber and female PTC connecting to the sensor? 1/8" NPT to 1/8 tube diameter? 

Looks like I'll need a male PTC to come out of the snubber then a female PTC for the Quadzilla sensor.

I went to test my pressure with a mechanical gauge that I have, but it is unfortunately broken when I pulled it out to the tool box. Started the truck to see what the quad sensor was reading and now it is up to 95-100 psi, so I'm fairly certain that the sensor is shot at this point. Will build up a system like yours for the new sensor.

Thanks

[Bullet]

22 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

I use MoparMan's set up as well with a couple of slight differences.  I added an 18" grease gun hose between the snubber and the needle valve (opened between an 1/8 and a 1/4) and then 1/8" air brake line straight into the cab to a mechanical gauge...no isolator.  Works great...I have a direct gauge with about 1/4 lb of water hammer and never a leak.