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so I have a question for @KATOOM, I saw on another forum the idea in just replacing the heater core without removing the whole box. Someone suggested cutting the lines before they go into the firewall, and then re-connecting the lines together with heater hose(⅝ inch if i saw correct) with doubled up spring clamps. 

Most do not have the means or time to discharge or recharge the ac unit, plus whatever the cost may end up being.

 

I saw that you had done this on your heater core. Did it hold up? Any leaks or other unforseen problems? ⅝ heater hose right? I have new copper non swivels, so no chance to jam that in there. Mine is leaking, so its time for replacement.

 

I know this isn't the proper way to so this, I'm aware, but this could save a decent amount of time, and if it works, then why not this way? My ac still blows cold. It maybe partly bocked, but for now, it works good. 

 

Unless there is another KATOOM lurking around other forums, I hope I'm asking the right one lol.

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1 hour ago, Alexio Auditore said:

so I have a question for @KATOOM, I saw on another forum the idea in just replacing the heater core without removing the whole box. Someone suggested cutting the lines before they go into the firewall, and then re-connecting the lines together with heater hose(⅝ inch if i saw correct) with doubled up spring clamps. 

Most do not have the means or time to discharge or recharge the ac unit, plus whatever the cost may end up being.

 

I saw that you had done this on your heater core. Did it hold up? Any leaks or other unforseen problems? ⅝ heater hose right? I have new copper non swivels, so no chance to jam that in there. Mine is leaking, so its time for replacement.

 

I know this isn't the proper way to so this, I'm aware, but this could save a decent amount of time, and if it works, then why not this way? My ac still blows cold. It maybe partly bocked, but for now, it works good. 

 

Unless there is another KATOOM lurking around other forums, I hope I'm asking the right one lol.

 

Yes, I'm the only KATOOM... :)

And yes, my heater core is still doing great.  No leaks, no problems, and I dont regret doing it the short cut way either.  It saves time and money and in my opinion the factory way of removing the entire HVAC box just to replace the core, along with evacuating the AV system, is a complete waste of time for 99% of people.  I'm not suggesting only doing it the way I did but definitely worth trying unless you have AC problems that need attention, in which case it would be smart to address them while everything is apart.

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 Been reading this thread, just curious for those of you that have done this, how much time are we looking at to pull the dash, replace/clean the heater core and the evap? Looks like a big job to me but I suppose once your into it may not be as bad as it looks? 

 This is something I've planned in in the future to keep HVAC system working properly and to replace the dash. My hope is that the refrigerant leak I have is external so I can hold off on this for another year. Then dive in.

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2 hours ago, Doubletrouble said:

Been reading this thread, just curious for those of you that have done this, how much time are we looking at to pull the dash, replace/clean the heater core and the evap?

 

About 4 hours doing it right. Cleaning the entire HVAC case power washing the evaporator core. Recharging the A/C when done. While its out I normally look at the blower motor and the blower motor resistor too. New o-ring seal kit for the A/C lines. New foam seal in the case too. Lube the door pivots and inspect the blend door coupler. These are all thing you'll not be doing if you do the shortcut. Even one I've open had more crude in the evaporator than anything. Heater core typically stay clean. Yes the a dirt evaporator will impact performance in the summer and winter. Most will comment on how much more air will flow. Then not to mention the odors are gone too being the case is clean.

Edited by Mopar1973Man
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5 hours ago, Doubletrouble said:

 Been reading this thread, just curious for those of you that have done this, how much time are we looking at to pull the dash, replace/clean the heater core and the evap? Looks like a big job to me but I suppose once your into it may not be as bad as it looks? 

 This is something I've planned in in the future to keep HVAC system working properly and to replace the dash. My hope is that the refrigerant leak I have is external so I can hold off on this for another year. Then dive in.

If you are going in for the dash it would best to wait and do it all together. Putting the dash without the HVAC box in makes the dash install easier. It attatches to the back of the dash with quite a few screws. The ones on the drivers side it are tough to get. A skinny person makes a good helper for that even with the box out.

IIRC l spent about 3 or 4 days doing mine. I did not get in hurry and took as many beer breaks as l wanted. It is not a bad job at all. Simpler than it looks

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The time it takes to get this job done is going to be relative to the amount of skill someone has and whether or not they need the truck as a daily driver.....and what problems you may or may not run into along the way.  Also, not everyone has the ability to evac and re-fill the AC system which means taking the truck to an HVAC shop twice, and not everyone will find their truck to be cooperative during the process.  Meaning, as things get old they tend to be more fragile and susceptible to breaking.  The dash is huge and everything is tight fitting which means a lot of tugging and pulling and shoving.  As things break it means having to either find those replacement parts or find a way to fix it.  If everything goes perfectly smooth then great...

 

Edited by KATOOM
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3 hours ago, dripley said:

IIRC l spent about 3 or 4 days doing mine. I did not get in hurry and took as many beer breaks as l wanted. It is not a bad job at all. Simpler than it looks

I remember just doing the dash about 6 or 7 years ago. I spent 8 hrs from start to finish, and that was just the dash....admittedly I had a extra screw or 2 left over, could be the ones that were already loose in my head, bit no way for me to tell:think:, and I take longer than most when it comes to even simple jobs. I'd say if your dash is cracked, it's definitely as good a time as ever to replace it while working on hvac stuff, especially if your going to tear the whole hvac unit out.

 

I'm probably going to do the shortcut way personally,  its not that I think mopar1973man is wrong, in fact that is probably the smartest way to do it, especially with the trucks age and debris that makes its way down into the hvac system. But the extra time is a problem for a lot of people,(maybe not as bad currently with this pandemic) but that extra money maybe what we can't spare. I've been without sufficient heat for 2 winters now, and the windows in the truck fog up bad and smells a little coolanty(new word). AC is still cold ? 

 

This being said, I'm gonna call a local shop i trust and ask them if they discharge hvac systems and how much they'd charge to store and refill. Ill let you guys know how much that may cost. 

 

What about replacing the o rings on the refrigerant lines that you mentioned @Mopar1973Man? Where would I get these and how many of them are there? Would this be a good time to just go ahead and do the heater treater mod also, even if its not broken?

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I never tackle a project like this if time is tight. Nothing worse than buttoning up the work at sun down Sunday just to jump in the truck and drive back to where ever I am working.  

@Alexio Auditore any new parts should come with the o rings. Any where that sells the ac parts will also sell the oringss. Rock Auto has them as I am sure many others do on the internet. Harbour freight has an assortment of green ones.

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Thanks @dripley. Elecrtical and ac are the devil to me lol.

I hope I'm not coming off as being rude, I just mean for someone like me, the difference between just getting the heatercore done in a day or so maybe worth it taking the shortcut in comparison to getting a shop to take my truck in at a appointed time that works for them to discharge a system, while only having the weekend off, then knowing that its gonna take me a good 2 or 3 days, maybe longer if I run into issues doing the whole system, then having work Monday, hoping the truck is back together because its my D.D., and have to make a follow up appointment to get the truck back in for an ac recharge plus the charge. No doubt, most of us run into that issue of time. 

 

I should say if you have the means, do the whole box while your at it, but if not and you are faced with a leak or something like that, then the shortcut maybe the better way, then maybe down the road, get in there and finish the rest of the cleaning and checking the system out.

Just my thought, I hate doing it half hearted or even doing it twice, but time may not be on one's side, and like was pointed out too, dodge did a crappy job of designing these things to  be replaced easier.  Not trying to ruffle any feathers, no pun intended dripley?

 

Hoping to get a call back from the shop soon to price it out. Let you know soon.

 

Just got off the phone with the shop, so its about 150 bucks to discharge, store and recharge. Plus they'll check for leaks too.

Each shop is different, but its a good estimate I guess what to keep in mind.

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54 minutes ago, Alexio Auditore said:

Thanks @dripley. Elecrtical and ac are the devil to me lol

I went without ac for about 3 years. Finally got tired of it and dove in into it a little at a time. Made some mistakes and lost freon but stayed with it until I figured it out. Got a good deal on a 2 stage vcuum pump from harbor freight and got it working. Still fought a small leak that turned out to be in the compressor. Then the clutch failed. So I put a whole new system on, all but the evaporator. Going into my 3rd season on the same charge. The system is not overly complicated but l went thru some trial and error. Electrical is another story but l am getting better with a long way to go.

 

@IBMobile has some good articles here about the ac system.

 

And on ruffling feathers, they seem to be fair game here. I am used to it.

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I remember doing mine completely with cleaning the box and replacing heater core and evaporator, as far as the ac it leaked down at the time so no recapturing Freon needed, just had to pull a vacuum and recharge my self, but if one does not want to invest in the tools the 150.00 for a compete ac job probably is in the norm.but to each their own on that one .

 

It took me a full weekend, with lots of interruptions, and the following week working on it after 12 hour work days and comming home and spending maybe an hour or so on it and buttoning it up the following Saturday,  just saying it’s a job that you don’t want to take short cuts if you can help it, I think it’s been 7 or 8 years and I don’t plan on going back in there.

 

Another trick is if you need a windshield (I know this job just keeps getting more expensive) you can buy yourself a lot of room by removing your broken windshield and get a mobile windshield installer when finished. And then you can enjoy a new windshield along with good clean heat, and ac

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I've got my 5th wheel set up in @JAG1 driveway today and will be pulling his HVAC unit out tomorrow to do both heater core and AC evaporator, both are leaking. We'll see how it goes.

 

  I have replaced the heater core in another truck using the "short cut method" but that was a few years ago and the truck had low mileage'  i used a heater core with swivel pipes and it was not a hard job.  Still no leaks to this day.

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8 hours ago, Alexio Auditore said:

Is there a way to inspect the evaporator to see if it's blocked up while its still in the truck? Like removing the blower motor and blades to look up through there? Maybe an inspection camera?

 

No. There is no way to properly clean or inspect the evaporator while the HVAC is in the vehicle. It requires removal and disassembly to even clearly see the evaporator. I done several cleaning running a garden hose in the fan hole and trying to rinse the evaporator. This doesn't work very well some of the lose material comes out but the dried and caked mud will not come out and air restriction still remains, and performance is marginal. The only way I found was full removal and power washing the entire case and evaporator core. Yeah the evaporator can with stand a full 3,000 PSI power washer up to about 9 inches away without damage. 

 

I've got experience with early 1970's dashes and heater cores even was unsoldering the tank heads and rodding them out 20 years ago. Then with modern Dodge truck I've done too many to count on the 2nd Gen's. Then now getting my feet wet with 3rd Gen setups which are bigger pain in the :moon: compared to the 2nd Gen design. I would ALWAYS remove aclean. lube, and inspect the entire case. Using short cuts and avoiding the full job is going to bite you later and FORCE you to remove the HVAC in the future. 2nd Gen is the EASIEST to do. 

 

 

 

Edited by Mopar1973Man
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14 hours ago, Alexio Auditore said:

Is there a way to inspect the evaporator to see if it's blocked up while its still in the truck? Like removing the blower motor and blades to look up through there? Maybe an inspection camera?

 

Yes.  Remove the HVAC fan and you can reach up and feel the entire evap with your hand.  Depending on your girth it might not be as easy as one, two, three since the seat on goes back so far...but you can definitely tell if there's any debris on it.  Mine was clean but then again I dont park under dirty trees all day either.

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So just to confirm, you can get an idea of how clogged your evap is through the hole of the blower motor. Use the camera on your phone to see it. This is what i found in mine. Im obviously going to get the loose stuff up, but as far as backed up, what are your guys thoughts? Tried my best with video quality, both vids are pretty similar. 

20200504_130810.jpg

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