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who wants to rebuild thier VP44????

bronzebeard9
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bronzebeard9

bronzebeard9

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You are never going to believe it, the vp44 CAN be "rebuilt" in your shop/garage/lean-to!! Since my pump went out I have been feverishly searching for a cheap fix or the at least the cheapest rebuild I could possibly find……how does about $40.00 sound?!?! I have researched this in depth and found the common problems that cause vp44 failure, most of them are manufacturing process related (burrs left on metal components, pump case wearing through due to lack of lubrication, and parts seizing due to improper lubrication) Once the components have worn down they seize and of course the pump stops working, the less common failure is the electrical pack solders become weak and loose their proper connection, the connections could possibly be re-soldered but for the most part, when the electronics fail the pump has to be sent in as the electrical pack is calibrated to connect to the ECM on a calibration bench and unless you have a 100k to drop on a bench you may as well get a reman pump. As for the rest of the internal moving parts, it seemed to me you could just replace them….better yet, I found a guy that simply honed the parts and sanded them down with some fine grit sanding paper to relieve the clearance on these parts, he replaced the gaskets and lo and behold….his truck is now running!! I am in the process of ordering the gasket set he found and also am looking for the proper tool to remove the tamperproof bolts that hold the pump together, within the next couple weeks I will be attempting to rebuild my pump assuming the internal parts are seized and the electronics pack is not toast, once I have it apart it should be relatively obvious what the culprit is…..

Here is a link to the site I found this information on, http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/vp44-rebuilding-t111329.html in this thread you will find the part number as well as the contact information for ordering the gasket set to fix what is a ridiculously expensive problem for an otherwise excellent truck. This already worked out for at least one guy that had a bit of common sense and know how, I see no reason the same line of thought wouldn’t take care of many peoples vp44 headaches!!:ahhh::thumb1::hyper::pray: GAWD I HOPE THIS WORKS!!!!!!!

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smokeythedodge

smokeythedodge

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You are never going to believe it, the vp44 CAN be "rebuilt" in your shop/garage/lean-to!! Since my pump went out I have been feverishly searching for a cheap fix or the at least the cheapest rebuild I could possibly find……how does about $40.00 sound?!?! I have researched this in depth and found the common problems that cause vp44 failure, most of them are manufacturing process related (burrs left on metal components, pump case wearing through due to lack of lubrication, and parts seizing due to improper lubrication) Once the components have worn down they seize and of course the pump stops working, the less common failure is the electrical pack solders become weak and loose their proper connection, the connections could possibly be re-soldered but for the most part, when the electronics fail the pump has to be sent in as the electrical pack is calibrated to connect to the ECM on a calibration bench and unless you have a 100k to drop on a bench you may as well get a reman pump. As for the rest of the internal moving parts, it seemed to me you could just replace them….better yet, I found a guy that simply honed the parts and sanded them down with some fine grit sanding paper to relieve the clearance on these parts, he replaced the gaskets and lo and behold….his truck is now running!! I am in the process of ordering the gasket set he found and also am looking for the proper tool to remove the tamperproof bolts that hold the pump together, within the next couple weeks I will be attempting to rebuild my pump assuming the internal parts are seized and the electronics pack is not toast, once I have it apart it should be relatively obvious what the culprit is…..

Here is a link to the site I found this information on, http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/vp44-rebuilding-t111329.html in this thread you will find the part number as well as the contact information for ordering the gasket set to fix what is a ridiculously expensive problem for an otherwise excellent truck. This already worked out for at least one guy that had a bit of common sense and know how, I see no reason the same line of thought wouldn’t take care of many peoples vp44 headaches!!:ahhh::thumb1::hyper::pray: GAWD I HOPE THIS WORKS!!!!!!!

Suuuuweet.

I got one that I might do also.

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gave 50 dollars for it.

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bronzebeard9

bronzebeard9

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That’s a good buy; even for a dead vp.....turn it in for the core charge!! BAHAHAHA!!! I was lookin and they actually have tons of rebuild kits online, they have all the gaskets and from what it looks like a bunch of little brass shims....I think the trick is going to be taking pictures at every stage of disassembly to keep from screwing up assembly as Mr. Bosch has patented the assembly and disassembly procedures for his pump….how convenient….$100k+ for a test bench, you have to pay for the tear down instructions, you cant buy most of the parts unless you are a Bosch certified repair tech (wonder how much it costs to become a “certified” repair tech), or you can spend $1’100+ to buy a rebuild…..I don’t think so!! ENOUGH IS ENOUGH!!
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smokeythedodge

smokeythedodge

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That’s a good buy; even for a dead vp.....turn it in for the core charge!! BAHAHAHA!!! I was lookin and they actually have tons of rebuild kits online, they have all the gaskets and from what it looks like a bunch of little brass shims....I think the trick is going to be taking pictures at every stage of disassembly to keep from screwing up assembly as Mr. Bosch has patented the assembly and disassembly procedures for his pump….how convenient….$100k+ for a test bench, you have to pay for the tear down instructions, you cant buy most of the parts unless you are a Bosch certified repair tech (wonder how much it costs to become a “certified” repair tech), or you can spend $1’100+ to buy a rebuild…..I don’t think so!! ENOUGH IS ENOUGH!!

I'm all for it. so from what i understand the tamper proof torx are #25 and 27 ?? I have a bunch of tamper proof craftsman torx bits, but none fit just my luck.

--- Update to the previous post...

you should take a lot of pictures then post them, it would be great to see some on a public forum. I don't know of any other forum that has a post with pictures of the guts of a vp besides TDR but you have to pay to look at that site....

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patriot pearl blue

patriot pearl blue

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OK, so you pull it off, rebuild the pump side....... clean the connections... Gamble driving across country?? I thought 90% of the time if there was a issue it is the computer board on top of the vp44.Its not tough to rebuild the mechanical side of the pump, but the electronic side we are all in the same boat, not gonna happen.:)

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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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I thought 90% of the time if there was a issue it is the computer board on top of the vp44.

That issue is normally cause from low fuel pressure... At this point the flow past the electronics is reduced and the cooling factor is reduced hence when you go to WOT operation and the electronics really need to stay cool the fuel pressure typically falls and the cooling stops. Being the fuel is the only way to cool the eletronics you need to keep it flowing past the electronics. So if the overflow valve starts closing at 14 PSI and should be completely closed by 10 PSI then I highly suggest you never let the fuel pressure fall below 15 PSI on a WOT...
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bronzebeard9

bronzebeard9

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Alright guys, sorry I haven’t gotten back to my pump rebuild for a while now, just been busy.....

so I FINALLY got my truck towed over to a buddy’s shop and got the pump pulled the other day, I'll be starting the tear down this weekend so I'll letcha all know what I come up with and post some pictures in the next week or two, and as far as the electronics board is concerned, everyone is absolutely correct, if the board is fried it has to be calibrated on a bench, however! There are two connections that apparently burn out regularly, the board its self doesn't necessarily fry, just two leads coming off of the electronics pack! They overheat, become brittle and over time the solder or the wire itself deteriorates and fails, from what I hear it’s painfully obvious if this is the case as you can look at the wires and see that "oh!! That wire is not connected to anything" I will try to find some pictures of these wires. Again, it never hurts to try and I don't mind being the guinea pig....that’s how this stuff gets figured out

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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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Subscribed. I wonder if you could get that driver from Snap On? Is there any place to get the computer board alone?

Well that won't work from what I know of this subject... When the electronics fail and get replaced that's when you get into trouble. Because now you got to calibrate the eletronics to the mechanical part hence getting the right key for the shaft...
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