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Just got my BHAF installed with the stock tube and a black outerwear. Holy hell, my turbo is screaming. Atleast my truck sounds fast now, hahaha. Couldn't use the filter minder due to a crack at the bottom. Guess I'll just leave it out for now and maybe pick a new one up later. So far very happy with it.Question though, the bolts sticking up through the fender for the stock air box, did most just leave those in place? I left them just in case I ever switch back and didnt really even look to see if they came out.

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I built a heat sheild and then just cut the threads off smooth with the nuts. At the back towards the fire wall my filter was rubbing on A/C line so I took some rubber and zip tie and wraped the line.If you are anyone needs a heat sheild just give me a call. I build them on my cnc plasma cutter.

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Here is my fix for the bolts:

The chafe protection is real easy. Just get a piece of 1"x6" about 5" long (if I remember right). Set it on the three studs sticking up and tap on the board where the studs are to leave an impression. Then drill the board where the impressions are. That will keep the board in place and protect the A/C lines and the BHAF too.

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I guess you don't have to worry about punching a hole in your BHAF! LOL! Maybe a bungie? :) Russ

Yeah I can't puncture it but it does wiggle and move and wore a hole in my sock :banghead: One of these days I'll get an afe stage 2 or something. It NEVER ends. $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ I have a list of the crap I want, maybe one of these days I'll be content. :pray:
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I had my stock air box out today... I put chafe protection on the AC line, made a template for the base plate & reangled the battery Neg cable (removed, cleaned, reinstalled) before my legs gave out, standing on my step stool. I stuck the stock airbox back to keep mice out overnight... the cracks in the airbox, previously superglued... broke again. Glued again & put the hood down. My adapting pipe to the BHAF is too long... the air box tube has only an inch... in the stock hose.

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i've had my BHAF on for 4+ years and have never had a heat sheld, have never had any issues: melting, etc. Wouldn't it be better not to have one, to help with the IAT's for the mileage factor?

--- Update to the previous post...

..... also, where can I get a sock for it?????

--- Update to the previous post...

Just got my BHAF installed with the stock tube and a black outerwear. Holy hell, my turbo is screaming. Atleast my truck sounds fast now, hahaha. Couldn't use the filter minder due to a crack at the bottom. Guess I'll just leave it out for now and maybe pick a new one up later. So far very happy with it.

Question though, the bolts sticking up through the fender for the stock air box, did most just leave those in place? I left them just in case I ever switch back and didnt really even look to see if they came out.

My filter minder never seemed to work. I had taken the oem filter out and installed a K&N filter, but the mechanic that I had used almost beat the crap out of me when he saw that... he said that the K&N's let to much dirt in the system, that's when I had put my BHAF in, but never thought about puttin the air minder in. Any way of testing them?

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I'm not going to bother with the filter minder. It never moved with the OEM air box... not even with a mouse nest in it even though it crapped up the filter pretty good! I apparently drove quite a few miles with it that way. I would like to wrap open foam around the BHAF as a prefilter... I've used this foam before on an air compressor & lawn tractor, very successfully. The problem is the critters. I'd like to add a shell over that with a expanded metal inlet area. My experimental build up would be 2" greater Diameter and 1" longer length. The filter area is pretty snug. I'm concerned that I might build this & it not fit. I didn't work on the Heat Shield template today. I still think it would be needed at least as a base plate.

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One of these days I'll get an afe stage 2 or something.

Stay away from the AFE stage 2 kits.

I had an issue a few years ago with it.

The following was my original post with pics from TDR a few years ago.

I just installed an AFE stage 2 dry s intake on my 02 and have noticed my egts had gone up about 100 degrees. I went to Billings for the NHRDA diesel drags. The first road trip since the install. When I got to the hotel I popped the hood and really looked at the intake and then reached under the air horn which is only about 1 inch directly above the turbine housing and the plastic horn was soft and mushy underneath. This really concerned me. Luckily at the Dyno event the local AFE rep was there and I showed him this and he realized the problem, took pics and sent them to headquarters.

If you all look at how the air horn runs directly above the turbo It heats the air horn thus heating the air inside causing higher egts thus defeating the purposes of a "COLD" air intake.

The real scarey thing is that it got the horn hot enough to make it soft and mushy. That was at normal driving egts 600-1000. If one were to be pulling hard at 1100+ temps for a distance I fear a total melt and possible fire and or engine damage from melted plastic being sucked into the turbo ect.

AFE will get on top of this I hope and make it right. I am writing this as a safety issue. I will keep you all posted on what they are doing to help fix the problem.

After he contacted the factory They claimed this kit has been out since 2000 and this is the first they had heard of a hot horn issue. The rep was then saying oh its the bigger turbo and maybe we need a disclaimer about running it on anything but stock units ect.Posted Image

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They replaced it with a new stage one kit with outer wear and torque tube at no extra cost to me which I still run. If you can't read the whole post When I got home and removed the tube it had already deformed it from the heat but I failed to get pics of it.

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