I used to know which CTD oil..... till it all changed changed

[JAG1]

Which Dino oil you guys? I don't like the new 'LOW-E CJ-4 stuff so I'm lost on the right oil for my two older CTD's. A 96 and a 2002. Don't want synth:tease:. It's JUST THAT IT'S Too expensive for the regular interval oil changes.Thanks a bunch in advance . Just lost:ahhh:

[ISX]

I'm using valvoline premium blue, not the premium blue extreme (synthetic). I've been down the synthetic road.. The price far outweighs the benefits. Only benefit was maybe starting a little easier and oil pressure a little sooner. I can live without that.

[JAG1]

Okay That's cool cause I appreciate the advice. Another point about synth is the Cummins site says even if your using synth you must maintain the regular intervals. I guess it has to do with soot build ups in the oil.

[dripley]

Rotella since new here. I don't see any reason to change now.

[Mopar1973Man]

Any oil that is CI-4 or CJ-4 rated is what you need for your Cummins.For most vehicles in the main 48 states can run 15w-40...Beyond that its just a name on a bottle...

[anoldbiker]

Another point about synth is the Cummins site says even if your using synth you must maintain the regular intervals.

I actually call Cummins and ask about this. The guy said if you use Valvoline Blue Full Syn, you can extend your oil change intervals an extra 5k. They use it in the engines when they send them out from the factory. Don't really agree with that, but it's what was said.

[JAG1]

i used the CJ-4 only one time when it first came out. I must say first, I have changed my own oil since the 60's first on my 57 chevy but, I've been driving the same ctd since 1996 and it was the first time ever I saw metal chips stuck to the magnetic drain plug. So I quit using it. Had to go to straight 30wt. to get CI-4, but, now I cannot get it anywhere now. Have to go to an oil main dist. center to get in only in 55 gallon drums :spend:What to do what to do:ahhh:

[Boczech]

Which Dino oil you guys? I don't like the new 'LOW-E CJ-4 stuff so I'm lost on the right oil for my two older CTD's. A 96 and a 2002. Don't want synth:tease:. It's JUST THAT IT'S Too expensive for the regular interval oil changes. Thanks a bunch in advance . Just lost:ahhh:

You can still find the CI-4 like Delo 400 if that is what you are looking for. There is a place here in town that is selling it for $68.00/5 gal. I came across a Schaeffer Oil Rep about three years ago that had about six cases of the Supreme 7000 15/40 they were wanting to get rid of at a pretty decent price. May I ask why you don't like the new CJ-4 stuff ? If you go to a site called bobistheoilguy.com there are numerous UOA's that have been done using the CJ-4 oils. Once I use up the stash of CI-4 oils I have then I plan on switching my 96 RAM 12v over to the CJ-4 oils. B

[98whitelightnin]

I got 3 gallons of CAT oil early last year and it was still CI-4.

[JAG1]

You can still find the CI-4 like Delo 400 if that is what you are looking for. There is a place here in town that is selling it for $68.00/5 gal. I came across a Schaeffer Oil Rep about three years ago that had about six cases of the Supreme 7000 15/40 they were wanting to get rid of at a pretty decent price. May I ask why you don't like the new CJ-4 stuff ? If you go to a site called bobistheoilguy.com there are numerous UOA's that have been done using the CJ-4 oils. Once I use up the stash of CI-4 oils I have then I plan on switching my 96 RAM 12v over to the CJ-4 oils. B

I don't like it because of some of the write ups on it. Plus the only time I ever used it the magnet on the drain plug had metal chips on it for the very first time.

[angus]

Synthetics are far superior when it comes to thermal break down. The thing is my Cummins hardly ever cracks 200 degrees even on 100 + days. dragging a trailer.Personnally I am sold on Rotella T 15/40 . I change on a 4000-5000 mile interval, and the oil looks clean enough to run in somebody`s Ford. I don`t know if its the Rotella or the superior Cummins engine, but I have never owned a vehicle that runs this clean before

[Mopar1973Man]

Synthetics are far superior when it comes to thermal break down. The thing is my Cummins hardly ever cracks 200 degrees even on 100 + days. dragging a trailer. Personnally I am sold on Rotella T 15/40 . I change on a 4000-5000 mile interval, and the oil looks clean enough to run in somebody`s Ford. I don`t know if its the Rotella or the superior Cummins engine, but I have never owned a vehicle that runs this clean before

Lucky... Mine looks like pen ink with in about 500-1000 miles... Don't help with RV275 injectors and Edge Comp on 5x5...

[dripley]

Same here. It is black after 1500 miles after changing. I used to change it every 4k or 5k with the same results. Now every 8k to 9k with the same results. If mine was that clean at change time I might add another 3k to it.

[Mopar1973Man]

You got to remember the owner manual specifies 7.5K miles to oil change anything before that is a waste... CajFlynn was changing every 20K miles I'm not sure what he's changing at now...

[War Eagle]

I run the Rotella synthetic 15/40 since I bought the truck and I have set my change intervals at 10k miles. The oil has never come out black.I started using TCW3 2 cycle oil in it a year ago and the oil turns black in about 1000 miles. It scared me the first time I saw it because this never happened before. So I changed the oil after I saw that it was black and then the turned black again in about 1000 miles.I first thought maybe I had a leaky injector but I had them tested and that was not the case. Now I am thinking that is it due to burning the 2 cycle oil.Is this possible? Does anyone have a history (on vp44 engines) of seeing the color of your engine oil change from previously being pretty clean at the change to being black at the change and have determined what really caused the change in color?

[JAG1]

I run the Rotella synthetic 15/40 since I bought the truck and I have set my change intervals at 10k miles. The oil has never come out black. I started using TCW3 2 cycle oil in it a year ago and the oil turns black in about 1000 miles. It scared me the first time I saw it because this never happened before. So I changed the oil after I saw that it was black and then the turned black again in about 1000 miles. I first thought maybe I had a leaky injector but I had them tested and that was not the case. Now I am thinking that is it due to burning the 2 cycle oil. Is this possible? Does anyone have a history (on vp44 engines) of seeing the color of your engine oil change from previously being pretty clean at the change to being black at the change and have determined what really caused the change in color?

I have a second truck, a 12 valve ctd for work and changed the oil every 3,000 miles. I even poured a quart of oil thru with the drain plug out just to rinse the engine and it always turned black within a short while. This is normal and shows that your oil is actually doing the job it is supposed to be doing. Been driving this truck nearly everyday since 96 and it has always been that way.

[Mopar1973Man]

It's the fueling mods that blacken the oil so fast. I was like everone else as long I was strictly stock I keep clean oil for a long time. Now with RV275's and Edge comp on 5x5 all the time... It's like pen ink in a few hundred miles. But like I've been told a million time its not about the color of the oil.

[dave110]

Rotella T for me:thumbup2:

[anoldbiker]

If you turn your oil in for analysis each oil change to see if your good or not, why not go the distance ? I use to change the oil every 5k with filter and when I turn 30k I changed to syn., then changed the filter each 5k and cap off. The analysis said I was fine when I changed each 10k and could go further. I don't ... but why waste ? My oil has come out black since the beginning, and with good analysis reports I'm not worried about it.