Well I've made it home for the summer and it's time to start tearing this thing apart. I will begin tomorrow, but yesterday I took it to the dyno. Laid down 503 / 1215. I was very pleased with the numbers, but the knocking is getting worse to it's time to take it apart.

 

So what are the plans while you're in there? Just freshen it up with stock parts or ???

if you have any questions about rebuild, tips and tricks, let me know i just did mine 6 months ago. i will say this, the engine was easier to mate to the tranny than the tranny to the engine, 1st try in less than 10 minutes and the splines lined up and they slid together. basically i wasn underneath and directing my friends where the engine needed to go and how much, i lined up the gaps from the bellhousing and the engine, gave the driveline a bit of a twist and pop there she went.

So what are the plans while you're in there? Just freshen it up with stock parts or ???

I'm on a budget, so it really depends on what I find. If all goes as planned it will have the head reworked, possibly O rings, head studs, 188/220 cam, CR tappets, and valve springs. I may be missing a few things in there.

I'm also planning on all new syncros in the trans because 3rd and 4th are starting to get tired. They will shift fine if you're slow, but if you try to shift quickly they both grind.

The transfer case was apart last summer and was in great shape so I'm going to leave that alone.

My paint guy can't take the bed and topper for painting this week or the next, so I'll just throw them on a trailer and take them to him. I plan on filling this thread with pictures so stay posted!

 

 

if you have any questions about rebuild, tips and tricks, let me know i just did mine 6 months ago. i will say this, the engine was easier to mate to the tranny than the tranny to the engine, 1st try in less than 10 minutes and the splines lined up and they slid together. basically i was underneath and directing my friends where the engine needed to go and how much, i lined up the gaps from the bellhousing and the engine, gave the driveline a bit of a twist and pop there she went.

I'll make sure to ask if I run into any snags; thank you. The trans is not staying in though.....

The only thing I would add that I don't see in the signature is head studs.

Marine pistons.

I must suggest you do very careful research before using marine pistons. 

Some time ago we had a member who used marine pistons on his build & ran into troubles.  As I recall...  and with my MS I don't claim a great memory...  the problem was the relationship of the fuel cup on the marine piston & the non-marine injector spray pattern.  There are not the selection of special parts for the marine piston based engine.     

 

Hopefully someone else can point you to the thread or have direct knowledge of the final solution.

Edited May 11, 20159 yr by flagmanruss

If all of the bores and pistons look good I won't be touching them. Thank you Mike! It will definitely be getting head studs.

Humm I wanna help haha.  

I love rebuilding an engine when it isn't mine

If all of the bores and pistons look good I won't be touching them. Thank you Mike! It will definitely be getting head studs.

 

 

Humm I wanna help haha.  

I love rebuilding an engine when it isn't mine

 

Sounds like he is going the route of repaired / reconditioned rather than rebuilt.

 

Tail light warranty.................

Sounds like he is going the route of repaired / reconditioned rather than rebuilt.

 

Tail light warranty.................

The truck is NOT getting sold. I just don't see the point in replacing what isn't broke. If I had the money I'd put all new parts in it, but I just can't.

 

Nick I'll let you know when we actually tear into it!

T case, drivelines, skid plates

 

Trans

 

After everything is out

 

Bumper removed. Lunch time.

 

 

Considering we started at 9 and it's now 12 I think we've made pretty good time!

The truck is NOT getting sold. I just don't see the point in replacing what isn't broke. If I had the money I'd put all new parts in it, but I just can't.

 

Nick I'll let you know when we actually tear into it!

WTF are you saying, you totally missed what I wrote, take a chill pill there bud...............  

A: I never said anything about it getting sold and

B: I was just relaying the point you so loudly pointed out that you were just repairing rather than rebuilding as in what Nick posted...........

I like to joke round if you may not have noticed in the last several years of me being here.

Why use CR tappets? Most of the CR world is using 24V tappets when changing them. 

 

Did you mean upgraded valve springs or CR valve springs?

 

 

Do the VP marine pistons have a different bowl? The CR's are the same for certain models and when the HP gets high enough they are double heat treated with a minor, really minor, added lip. Great results in the CR world using the QSB480 pistons. 

I think everyone I know who has or does 24v rebuilds puts nothing but marine pistons in them.

 

IF THEY NEED THEM THAT IS, BETTER ADD THAT IN BEFORE I GET KEYBOARD LASHED AGAIN!!!!!

heck while it's apart i'd have to re ring it. new mains and rod bearings as well. it'll freshen it up and is well worth the money and time spent doing so.

Rings would be a good thing if the bores and pistons are good on a high mileage engine but if the bearings look good I would skip it.

I would be looking real close and getting the spec for the ring lands before just throwing rings at it first, this is an area most never think about but is where a lot of wear occurs. everything may look like new but the ring lands can have wear in the piston and one will not notice unless you measure the dimension, every engine manufacturer has reuse guideline specs for this, there is also ring end gap and piston to cyl bore clearance specs.  

 

On a high mileage engine of unknown history I would put pistons and wrist pin bearings in the rods and while at it would have the pistons and rod assemblies weight matched, poor mans balancing tactic.

OK, here's the original discussion I was thinking of.  It was under 12 valve. 

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/5211-6bt-12-valve-marine-pistons/

 

Remember, in "running hot" Marine applications are sea water cooled... an unlimited supply of cold water without worrying about temperature build up.  Often water cooled exhaust manifilds are used to preheat cooling water before it enters the block...  hot water flows from the block & over board typically through the risers & a wet exhaust.  If a dry stack is used (most often in a commercial application) the hot water will just be discharged overboard.      

 

Now I will sit down & let those with hands on experience share their wisdom.

Edited May 11, 20159 yr by flagmanruss

5.9 piston specs, found this info but not sure what series of 5.9 its for or if there is a difference so find the correct manual and take this with a grain of salt, more for reference alone to show what all needs to be inspected if you think you want to reuse parts.

 

Piston skirt Diameter
101.864 - 101.88 mm
4.0104 - 4.011 in

Ring Grove Clearance
Intermediate
0.095 mm / 0.0037 in

oil Control
0.085 mm / 0.0033 in

Top Ring
0.35 - 0.45 mm
0.014 - 0.0177 in

Intermediate
0.85 - 1.15 mm
0.0334 - 0.0452 in

Oil Control
0.250 - 0.550 mm
0.010 - 0.0215 in

Connecting rod
 Pin Bore Diameter
40.042 mm
MAX
1.5764 in

Connecting Rod Side Clearance
0.100 - 0.330 mm
0.004 - 0.013 in

Piston Pins

Pin Diameter
39.990 mm / 1.5744 in
Bore Diameter
40.025 mm / 1.5758 in

Whew you guys went crazy while I was out working! 

 

Bill, I was just wanting to reiterate that this isn't a half way job. If something needs replacing I will do it, but while I'm paying over $31,000 per year to go to school I can't afford to do a full engine rebuild. I have no hard feelings, and I hope what I said didn't offend you.

 

AH64ID, I thought the CR tappets were larger than the 24V?? I would definitely like to go with the larger of the two!

 

The motor is out now and I will be posting pictures of everything shortly!

What are you going to college for?

 

I had a total of about 30K into what would be equal to 4 years of college room and board included in the total from 1990-1993. 2 years of full time college for agribusiness and then 6 months @ Wyotech in Laramie for diesel tech program which was 8.5 hours a day 5 days a week schooling.