Teardown and Rebuild

[AH64ID]

57 minutes ago, TFaoro said:

I don't think it was messed with... kinda hard to remember now though. 

 

Rail pressure spikes to 5K as soon as he starts cranking, and it idles at 7K.

 

I'll look into changing the tune over Christmas. 

 

Another thing that may or man not be related: When he throws it in neutral while still moving the rpms bounce between 500 and 800 until he comes to a stop. Once he stops it acts normal. Think this is related?

 

It likely is related. 

[TFaoro]

21 minutes ago, AH64ID said:

 

It likely is related. 

Does that rail pressure sound normal?

[AH64ID]

It depends completely on what it's set for in UDC. It's a normal idle range, but it only correct if that's what is being called for. 

 

With larger injectors you might try turning the idle pressure up a bit, maybe 8Kish. 

[TFaoro]

Little turbo Thursday for you gents. 

 

 

Edited January 13, 2017 by TFaoro

[CSM]

Hows the new one compared to the old one?

[TFaoro]

17 hours ago, CSM said:

Hows the new one compared to the old one?

The secondary seems about the same or maybe just a touch faster. The primary definitely comes in later but there's still plenty of meat under the power curve for what I want. I've got about 5psi from the primary when the combined boost is at 20psi. I'm still playing with the gate though since I managed to bark the 75 

[jlbayes]

Slacker

[TFaoro]

Does anyone know the best way to remove powder coat from aluminum?? I'm thinking airplane stripper or something to that effect. I'll tag a couple of you who I think may have ideas. @CSM @Me78569 @Mopar1973Man @IBMobile @dripley

 

Anyway, I've got a BD stainless manifold on the way, so I'll be pulling the turbos out to put that in. I wish I had some blankets to put on at the same time but oh well.

I'll also be pulling my injectors and sending them back to DAP to be cleaned and have the pop pressures reset. I've got a little miss at idle that I'm suspecting are the injectors but we'll see. 

After all of that it'll be dyno time!

Edited February 16, 2017 by TFaoro

[Royal Squire]

A torch?

[TFaoro]

46 minutes ago, Royal Squire said:

A torch?

I think that might burn it into the metal's pours. The surface finish on it is not very good. 

[CSM]

No idea. Aircraft stripper would probably work. Use good ppe and respirator with aircraft stripper.  That stuff will kill you in the long run and can get in your bloodstream.   

 

My dad has a media blaster and that might also work, but would take a while.  If you are painting it, media blast for sure.

Edited February 16, 2017 by CSM

[Royal Squire]

Probably not gonna be an easy method. Why are you wanting to remove the powder coat?

Edited February 16, 2017 by Royal Squire

[jlbayes]

Media blaster.

[dripley]

Aluminum safe stripper or media blaster is all I can think of. 

[IBMobile]

Do it your self with either Rust Oleum Aircraft Remover or Klean Strip Aircraft Paint Remover.  Both have methylene chloride and methanol as the main active ingredient and are very toxoid.  Eye, breathing and skin protection

should be followed.

Media blasting takes a long time to do because the frication of the media striking the power coating causes it to melt.  Sand blasting would pit the stainless steel.

 A dustless blaster works well if you can find someone that has one.   

[TFaoro]

9 hours ago, CSM said:

No idea. Aircraft stripper would probably work. Use good ppe and respirator with aircraft stripper.  That stuff will kill you in the long run and can get in your bloodstream.   

 

My dad has a media blaster and that might also work, but would take a while.  If you are painting it, media blast for sure.

I'll see what some stripper does to it. If it works, I'll probably see if your dad can help out. 

 

 

9 hours ago, Royal Squire said:

Probably not gonna be an easy method. Why are you wanting to remove the powder coat?

I'm trying to make this valve cover look pretty!

 

 

41 minutes ago, IBMobile said:

Do it your self with either Rust Oleum Aircraft Remover or Klean Strip Aircraft Paint Remover.  Both have methylene chloride and methanol as the main active ingredient and are very toxoid.  Eye, breathing and skin protection

should be followed.

Media blasting takes a long time to do because the frication of the media striking the power coating causes it to melt.  Sand blasting would pit the stainless steel.

 A dustless blaster works well if you can find someone that has one.   

Sand blasting might be okay because it will be repainted. However I'd prefer to do it myself. I'll give it a shot this weekend. Thanks!

[Royal Squire]

You were talking about removing your turbo, I thought you were removing turbo powder coat. 

Probably somewhere in denver area that can dip it for you. That would be quickest and easiest. Less hazardous to your health 

[TFaoro]

4 minutes ago, Royal Squire said:

You were talking about removing your turbo, I thought you were removing turbo powder coat. 

Turbos are coming out to replace the manifold. While I'm at it I'll re-wrap the hot pipe with some heat wrap as well. 

Maybe I'll do some shining on the small one while I'm at it  

[TFaoro]

Did some work on the truck tonight. Pulled the injection lines, crossover tubes, injectors, both turbos, all the piping, and the manifold. One injector had some chunky carbon buildup right on the tip, so I'm guessing that's my problem child. I'm not sure what's wrong with it, but I'm sure DAP will figure it out. 

I'm going to re-wrap the hot pipe between the turbos while I have everything out. It did a little melting on my new looming  

I'm going to clean up all of the mating surfaces while I'm home and get the secondary shined up like it's supposed to be. 

My 75 is starting to leak a bit of oil out the compressor side, and it has just a touch of in-out play. I guess I'll be rebuilding it while I have everything apart. @Mopar1973Man do we have an article for rebuilding turbos? I didn't see one, but I can make one when I do this turbo. 

Does anyone know where I can get an OEM Borg Warner rebuild kit??

 

Pictures because everyone likes pictures!

You can see the holes if you look close!

 

Empty engine bay

 

Plugged up the fuel side

 

Oil coming out of the big one

[jlbayes]

Dap should be able to get you a kit or just about any turbo shop.