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2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

This is a discussion forum of the 1998.5 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins 24 Valve Turbo Diesel power train and drive line system. This includes all sub-system including wiring, fuel, oil, exhaust, air, transmission, computers and sensors.

  1. Hello, new to the forum To get started here I bought my truck about 6 months ago (99 dodge cummins) first cummins. And everything seemed fine for a couple months then the park break and ABS lights came on, didnt think much of it as for the truck still ran perfectly fine a few weeks later I start getting this problem of idle jumping around and speedometer jumping around while driving and it jumping in and out of overdrive. (im guessing) Then just from driving around like the dumb kid I am (not being very nice to my truck) I lost my transmission, had it rebuilt by RedLine Transmissions in Boise ID. When I got it back the park break and ABS …

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  2. Started by Marcus2000monster,

    Well I’m thinking about doin a turbo swap. I would like to have around 400 450 hp. I will be purchasing a qaud v2 before too long. I’m thinking I will do injectors too. What size would you do with the HE351 and v2? And now for the turbo... do I want the variable geometry or the cw model? I would also like an exhaust brake which I believe is built into these turbos? Has anyone else done this swap? What was your experience? Anyone please chip in with questions comments or concerns. Mods should be in signature. Fass 150 is alsonin the books before long! And just to clarify the truck is running well now. No issues besides the fact it snowed 6 inches yesterd…

  3. Started by skyhigh4by,

    Ive been chasing down problems with this new to me 98 24v and just got a pretty big indicator I think. First I diagnosed alternator AC problems causing TC lock/unlock issues, and then narrowed down my TC not unlocking to a couple things but now I was just out for a drive, stopped at a buddies house and we figured it was idling a little high 900rpm(ish) and the CEL kicked on while I was there. I was going to try an APPS reset when I got home but on my way home cruising down the highway my throttle pedal went dead and I had to be towed home. Pulled the codes and got P0121, P0122, P0216, P0234, and of course a P1693 to go with it all. I know what the definition of each cod…

  4. Started by 015point9,

    My push on tee fitting is leaking at the stem going to fuel gauge, very little but enough I should fix. Wrapped with Teflon tape maybe 4 or 5 wraps. Buy another fitting or is JB Weld alright to use in diesel fuel?

  5. Started by Aaron Gettinger,

    I have heard that their is a mod where you can trick the map sensor into fueling all the time. How does one go about doing this I’ve heard you can throw resistors at it or a buddy of mine told me that you can put that sensor under a certain amount of pressure tricking it to fuel all the time. Does this work? If it does how much hp could you gain? Will the engine check light come on? If the resistors do work how do u go about doing that. Really any info will work. Really looking for info just on the 2 gens.

  6. Started by Carbur8tr,

    Does anyone out there have any information at all regarding H-Pumps on a 24v? Fit, cc, build specs etc. There was a guy over on CF who got a hold of one a while back but the project never went anywhere. I really haven't seen or heard much about them so just curious if anyone has any information on them.

  7. Started by portlandareae28,

    Is there an overall consensus on tapping the vp? How does it affect longevity, etc.?

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  8. Started by Youngblood24v,

    I’ve been trying to do some research of what the purpose of a lock up switch is but can’t find a clear answer. I get that it’s used to lock up the convertor but what I can’t find a clear answer on is under what scenarios would you want to use a lock up switch? I know this is a newbie question but I just don’t know the answer to it ?

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  9. Started by Marcus2000monster,

    Life’s little surprises have put a near end to building the truck I want! Lol I’ve decided to put all upgrades on hold for now. Going to drive my truck stock for a while until I can afford to do what I want! I’m forced to sell my current tuner because I have some bills too pay and it sucks! I m planning to hopefully do some 50 hp sticks yo help with a little power and fuel economy are these the right size for max mpg? If possible I’d like to do @Mopar1973Man light upgrade so I can see the darn road lol . I’m sure y’all have been down this road too?

  10. Started by hex0rz,

    Anyone have firsthand experience with either? Whay can be said about either? Do they live up to the hype?

  11. Started by Allen120,

    Does the Moparman harness need 12 volts since I have not seen any videos with people hooking up 12volts

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  12. I'm replacing this wire: The wire is a shielded twisted-pair with a drain (SAE J1939/11). The wire seen here is the stock wire. It's comically unkempt. Note that the orange wire is about five inches too long, so that it must be doubled-back to make it the proper length. Also, the shielding is missing from the first six inches, and the last four inches. Neither of these is a problem from a functionality standpoint. I mean, it probably doesn't hurt anything. It's just sloppy. That loose twist of shielding provides no benefit, so why did they leave it loose like that? This is what I made to replace it. All new wire and…

  13. Started by Jnhobson95,

    Been having problems for awhile with my torque converter not locking in. Took it the shop and they put a new torque converter and selenoids in the valve body. Started working but now it’s having the same problem. Also the voltage gauge has now started staying at zero and won’t crank. Every once in awhile it will crank and after you drive around for a few minutes the gauge will go back to zero. Checked all the grounds off the batteries and they seem fine. Any help appreciated.

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  14. Started by ThunderThighs,

    New to the site and i know that this topic has probably cover dozens of times. I feel my issue is slightly unique than others covered on here. Truck runs fine at operating temp of 190, until you down shift into a lower gear such as 2nd or 3rd and use that gear to hold you back going down a hill for a slightly longer period of time(or shut off for a few minutes it will start to miss as well). It starts to miss and rough idle this will continue until you can accelerate through the gears(miss will stick around until 1800 or so RPM). If it is shut off while missing you can come out the next morning and start it up it will still have a miss/rough idle. I had i…

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  15. Started by Marcus2000monster,

    So ever since I had the drop in fuel pressure which I have not mechanically tested yet my fuel economy has steadily went down since then. Have not had the chance to hand calculate yet but lie o meter says it went from 16.8 to 14.3. I picked up a tester today so I’ll be able to rest idle pressure soon. Where do I hook up the tester? The pressure went went down and then back up to 17 18 at idle and 12 13 wot. Used to be 19 20 at idle and 15 16 wot before the drop.

  16. Started by 015point9,

    Tried 3 times to contact Eric (on vacation maybe?) The valve at top of his pressure tester...should it be leak proof or not leak proof? and turning screw on tester only depresses the valve stem (to allow pressure in) on what ever you are testing?

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  17. Started by Youngblood24v,

    So I bought a used airdog off my buddy a couple month ago. It is the older version. Everything works on it but I’ve been noticing that it doesn’t keep pressure constant. I set it to 18psi at idle but if I really get on it it will go down to around 11psi on a really hot tune. Is this a sign of my motor getting weak? I’ve seen some write-ups that you can order a 4g motor from airdog and it will fit on my airdog. Is this drop in psi normal or is it getting weak? Or is their something I can do to keep it at a more constant psi all throughout my throttle position?

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  18. Started by stevens cummins,

    Im building my nv4500 and found a deal on a big input shaft because the bearing got lost, does it use a diffrent size bearing or the stock size. I know the retainer has a slightly larger opening for the larger shaft but dont know about the bearing

  19. So I get the low battery light otw home, barely make it home with my edge reading 9v. I pull the 2 pin plug on the back of the alternator to check to see if the computer is calling for the alternator to charge. On the hot wire I got 9v,the ground wire I get 40 ohms . Isn't 40 ohms to high for the ground? I figured it should read a lot lower, didn't know if that was why my alternator isn't charging or not.

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  20. Started by JAG1,

    I can't get fuel pressure to go above 11-12 till an hours worth of driving. I have all 1/2'' lines and tested everything else I can think of. Even tried two brand new AD 150's and bypassed the filter, still the same low pressure till warmed up for an hour or so. And the thing that's strange is you cannot find any problems with Raptor pumps on any google search beyond 2013. It's like they hired someone to keep all searching clean of problems before that year It makin me nuts I have not alternative except to turn up the regulator another 1/2 turn

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