2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

My old trans had 350k and still had good detent between gears, let go of shifter and it still had spring in it in other words. It just didnt wont to stay in 5th gear. So I find a rebuild shop in San Antonio, 975 bucks, said a lot of new parts didnt come out and say what new parts, but anyway. I get it home and the first thing I do is open the fill plug and have a look see. Well I should have stopped at the sludge on the in side of the plug and took it back, but NOOOO I keep going, take the plastic cap off where the shift tower goes and there is more paint on the in side than there is on the out, and a little more sludge. I am thinking I should call the SOB, well he's clos…

Ok I got new ecm and power is back and pulls great, but it still has a miss at idle, I dont know if it has miss a cruise speed or not but I do know if you put a bypass box on it it runs just fine. So where to look? I am thinking wire harness?Is wire harness two peace or single harness, in other words am I dealing with a night mare to do my self?

I have an 01 Cummins and in the mornings down here in Florida when I start the truck up it idles rough and smokes for awhile. Any clues. Ive changed the cam sensor and filters. The fuel pressure guage says @ idle the truck has 17-18 psi. When i plug the motor in for the night and crank it the next morning the truck doesnt run rough, but without it , it runs rough??? I deleted the grid heater years ago but, this just started acting up. I dont think its because i dont have my grid heater in. Maybe the 110 BD injectors I put in the truck 4-5 years ago are clogged maybe?? how do you check them?? :ahhh:Got any clues?? Any info would be greatlly appreciatted!!!

This problem is starting to happen more after a warm or hot restart within the first mile, tach drops down to nothing, CE light comes on, engine rattles real hard for a mile or two. If I was to stop at a light, the engine has a rough idle, today I put it in neutral I kept juicin' it a little just so it wouldn't stall. After a mile down the road it all returned to normal. My FP was in my normal14-16 range while driving the entire time.:shrug:Anyone experience this?Dave

The oil pressure on my truck always reads above 40. It is usually just before the slash mark between the middle 40 and the max 110 readings. (On the stock gauge) Is this alright? Why would it show this high?Thanks

Just a quick question I hope. I was wiring up a 5 pin relay to have on toggle switch from IAT sensor to 2.2ohm resistor. On accident I touched 12v positive from battery to IAT wire, so basically I sent 12 v to ECM from one of sensor wires. ( i cut blue one in half and piggybacked to black) I haven't started truck yet and it's getting really cold out too I might wait till end of week to start. But with key on and switch off I get 143f on IAT gauge and if I flip switch on I get ambient temp of intake. I figured ill wire it up this way so the relay is not energized when I'm fooling IAT, most of time it will be fooled anyway so I'll use relay to switch to IAT only for warm up…

Long time reader first time poster. This is most likely my last resort since I've searched all I could to find out the issue. My truck has never boosted correctly since I got it. I'm running a V2 tune from on this forum and it's been great until I get to 22psi. Then that's all she's got. My boost gauge just sits there. And that's with my foot to the floor. Clamped the wastegate line and still nothing. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

Help, I went to adjust the voltage on my apps sensor, removed sensor and now there is no tag to go from. How do I adjust? I realize I shouldn't of done this... Thank you

So here’s the project: 1998.5 24v: ECM, PCM, engine harness, pcm harness, engine bay harness, and gauge cluster all 1998.5 from same truck. The cab/ dash harness is a 2001 gasser. My gauges power up fine, shows rpms but nothing else. Gauges appear to pass self test. Codes 920, 921. DOES NOT give me a NO BUS... I installed my brothers 1999 pcm and no change, took my gauges and pcm to his truck: my pcm works and his gauges work in his truck, my pcm and my gauges work in his truck. His pcm and my gauges work in his truck.... So: I feel that the 2001 dash harness has different wiring than the 1998.5.... also my head lights don’t work properly. …

Well gang... I know a bunch of you have either built your own high idle mod or purchased one through Prowelder or maybe another source. But I know a few of you have had some diagnostic problems in building or have had issues after installing. Well this little write up should walk you through most of it ad figure out what is going on. Ok let get down to tools... You'll need a DVM (Digital Volt Meter) set on ohms. Now lets start with the ECT fooler... Now with the female plug which is the plug that hooks to the ECM we want to measure the ohms at this plug with the fooler in the ON position. It should read 3.3K ohms. If its open check the other…

So I’m running through the pros and cons of tapping my VP. My main thinking is it’d be fun to have until I can throw bigger injectors in the truck and use the quad to tune accordingly. My main concerns are I’m not entirely sure of the mileage on the VP. I think it’s at around 70ish and even though the PO kept good care of the truck, he didn’t have records of it and I had to call the dealership to confirm and they were a little unsure of the date as it’d been a while and they’re system had crashed at some point making certain things not show. Either way, PO didn’t use two stroke, ran a hyper tech tuner and had an intake lift pump so I’m sure it ra…

I set out to change the pre lift pump filter today. Ordered a wix part# 33270 from Amazon. When I went to change it I found a mess from whom ever installed the FASS ddrp. They cut the original hard plastic line and slipped a loose fitting rubber line over it and installed the included filter. It had to have been sucking air in. Question is, could I just go get some of the correct size rubber line (for fuel of course) and go from the quick connect fitting on the ddrp to when the plastic line turns into the aluminum hard line and install my filter in this rubber line? Truck is down now so I need to get it fixed. See pics below. Just dodged…

I've travelled a total of 255k miles now and been keeping up on my coolant flushing. This batch was over extended and shows it in the bucket the color was starting to shift just wee bit. As for the radiator and block still going strong and very clean! Still using universal yellow coolant and doing just fine. Don't need any fancy orange HOAT. Lookie... No scale build up!!! 255k miles and like a factory fresh radiator. Block is even clean yet and just a surface rust like back from my previous picture shoot.

From the time I bought my Cummins the trip, compass, fuel mileage computer that is located between the visors has been a screw up. The compass always has CAL and the direction is always incorrect. I have calibrated it according to the manual and what is posted on Geno's. The Calibration resets has long as the truck is running but always goes back to CAL mode when I restart. My average mileage is stuck on 15.3 but will change when I reset it and give much better readings but again when I turn off the truck and restart it goes back to the original numbers.I am hoping that I will not have to purchase a new one, most are selling for $200 on ebay. Any ideas or suggestions wo…

I posted this over at the cummins fourm and did not get any responce worth looing in to. i seem to get a more mature responce over here. I have a used 01 24v with and auto transmission. I know they don’t last forever. I do not know what has been done to the truck. When I bought it had gauges pryo, boost, trans temp, and part of a bully dog security system. I tow very little. But it’s a jeep or fire wood when I do. My question is when I add an edge comp what’s going to happen to my transmission. How bad can it be? Should I just let the TC blow? What happens when it goes? What about the clutch pack? I don’t know what work has been done to it. The car fax said th…

Anybody know if the manufacture of our blocks makes any difference concerning the killer dowel pin? I've don't have number 53. Only have very small numbers. Supposedly Mexican block. But wondering if both blocks have KDP problem or just one or the other. I'm coming up on 100,000 miles, maybe not worth the hassle of checking KDP anyways. When do most dowel pins fall out? Thanks

I was using Stanadyne Lubricity Formula for lube and a water demulsifier. I have recently switched to Super Tech 2 stroke for lube, but I still like the idea of a water demulsifier to keep water out of the pump. I do not want a water emulsifier, because that would allow the water to blend with the fuel and go straight to the IP. I would rather help the fuel filter/water separator do its job, than sneak water past it. Does Power Service, or anything else, demulsify water? Thanks :cheers

I need new front axle u joints and the only ones I can find localy are precision u joints. Are these any good? Should I go with greasable or sealed? I don't mind doing the maintenance.

Ok so yesterday I installed mopar1973man high idle kit on my brothers 02 dodge cummins 2500. I followed instructions black plugs go to coolent temp sensor and white plugs go to iat sensor. The iat sensor was not a easy as i though to get too. Next plug the white plug through the fire wall to see put the chip in and plugged it in. Grabbed my scan guage plugged it in to see if everything changes it did. What my brother noticed was white smoke bad. Looked up sure as you though check engine lights on. Looked at codes p0118 engine coolant temp circuit high input. P0113 air temp sensor circuit stays above 4.5 volts. And the worst one P0216 injection timing control circuit. Now …

Hello from Germany.... I just installed a Valair single organic disc in my truck. The previous clutch went bad due to the input shaft seal leaking, y’all know the rest. I did replace the seal. I got the whole clutch kit from Valair, 13“ flywheel, pilot, throwout, etc. Even went the extra mile and got the ARP flywheel bolts. The trans used to rake a little on the 2-3 shift if I was beating on it. Gotta show those pesky German VW drivers what the ‘ole dually can do from time to time. After the clutch install, I can’t do a 4-3 downshift, at least like I used to. If I slow down to where I normally would shift to second, it will go into third. I never had any do…