2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

So to start off be patient with me please, I’m new to diesels, and working on my own stuff in general. I’m young and don’t know a whole lot about anything. But a few months back I had to replace the vp44 on my 2001 5.9 Cummins. Me and my dad had to work on it at separate times since he was working nights and I was working days. Well we eventually got it off and the new one on. And when we got what we thought was everything plugged back in and ready to go we went to try it and the two wires that connect to the two studs on the same side of the intake horn for the grid heater we’re left undone and we’re laying against something. So when we started it I went to the front and…

So my truck has always had an intermittent problem with throwing code p1291, especially when its wet out (rare these days in California). PO told me when I bought it that if I ever had the CEL come on it was almost certainly a loose post connection sleeve at the relay (skinny wire press on sleeve) working loose. Ive generally found that to be the case, but im getting tired of it happening and am wanting to fix it for good. Ive already tried to pinch them slightly for better connectivity with limited success. Any issue with clipping them off and replacing with ring terminals to screw down? Anyone know the size off hand?

Hi guys, got the new grid heater battery jumper wire set I had ordered. I put it on, tried it and fried it in 5 seconds- bye bye $40. Anyway, I just followed the troubleshooting instructions here after this disaster: http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/troubleshooting/Maniford_htr.htm I have .1 or 0 Ohms (depending on the multimeter setting) across the heater grid terminals as stated in the 2002 instructions. But it seems like you wouldn't want 0 if going from the grid terminals to ground as that would in indicate a direct short to ground. If I jump the grid straight to the battery its like a welder. Anyone have any issues with this before? I took the intake horn…

I did the grid heater controller that i think MAYBE @IBMobile wrote up. Have had it switched off since spring. Everything was good. I lost a hydroboost and a gearbox this summer and completely covered everything under my hood in power steering fluid. Now its cold in Loserville ky and and i need the grid. My problem is when i turn my switch on the grid stays on all the time. Never shuts off until i flip the switch. I will admit i have not had the time to put it back to factory stock conditions to see what happens. Scan tool shows nothing. Any help/ideas are really appreciated. Thanks guys.

Ok I don't know why! Why would you want to turn off the grid heater in the manifold. I see people posting about it!

Was there someone here on the forum that is making a switch to turn off and on the grid heaters without triggering a check engine light? Or a after market company that supplies something like that?

been out hunting this week. i noticed at least twice, when the air temp was in the mid 50s and my truck had been sitting for at least 10hrs(and unplugged), my grid heaters didn't kick on(wait to start, idle, or, low speed driving). someone suggested that there might be a fuse link in the wire from the battery to the relays, but both had voltage thru the wire when i checked it with a DVOM. what should i check next? or am i jumping the gun, and its not cold enough for the ecm to start the grids? ISX does the 12v PCM run the grids? didn't you wire a switch for those?

It seems since I brought my truck into the dealer for the 3 cylinder high idle cold start enabling my grid heaters haven't worked. I see the wait to start light come on but the voltage doesn't change. I have to plug it in even at 0'C now or it won't start. Lots of white smoke for the first few minutes when I do get it running . Could there be another problem I'm missing maybe? Can a dealer possible program stuff to mess up or maybe accidentally delete my grid heaters somehow?

Ok, I thought I fixed my idle problem with a apps. It ran just fine for about 4 days no rump rump or anything, well its back. List of things done - second new apps,vp44,cam sensor,fuel pressure airdog 13.50lbs,tried ecm off another truck,tired turbo off anothre truck. One thing I have noticed is it only does it when eng. has been driven at hwy speed for a little while,does not rump rump at all when just idel around town. :thud

My truck started to make grinding noise in low speeds, like 10-20mph. Today I drove behind a tractor idling 15mph with 2nd gear and I heard grinding noise coming from under the drivers seat. Noise is biggest at those low speeds and I think in 2nd gear. Transmission fluid looks ok and transfercase fluid is ok. Time to rebuild??? And it's 47re transmission. Thank you.

I replaced my ECM and FCM plugs with pigtailed aftermarket plugs. When I started the truck it idled normally but when i pressed the accelerator there was a loud grinding noise under the hood. What could I have done to cause this? It sat for over a month before I made the repair. Disconnected batteries first. Spliced wires one at a time. Reset throttle sensor before starting. No codes.

02 3500 2WD 6speed dually 214,000 miles This is kinda hard to describe but I'll try Over the last few months, started to notice while driving down the road at highway speeds - most notably above 60 mph, whenever I hit a slight (or any sort of) bump in the road - as the suspension bounces down - I hear a whining gear-ish grinding sound. It only happens on the downward bounce. Points to ponder - - Truck has a service body installed. it's not super heavy but the helper springs are just touching. I also have firestone air springs installed - but I don't use them to "hold" weight or lift it up etc. I usually keep the pressure low for added stability - 10 …

02 3500 QC6 speed RWD 215k Independent front suspension. When driving straight or turning left, there is some kind of low mechanical grinding sound coming from the right side of my truck. With it is a slight vibration. Hard to tell if it's from the front or rear of truck. The sound disappears when making right turns. The tone changes with speed increase or decrease, and its most noticeable between 40mph and 60mph so it's definitely something rotational. No difference if truck is in gear or coasting in neutral. Issue has been gradually getting worse over the past few months. I suspect front right wheel bearing but would like to hear some opinions here. …

I luckily noticed starter motor solenoid wire boot/ insulation was rotted on a pretty new starter motor and the heavy wire was exposed. Could have shorted out on the nose of the solenoid. See photo in link http://www.fostertruck.com/grommet-cover-for-motor-wire-denso.html Im supprized that heavy wire is not insulated, just the cheap rubber boot. Damn ! I zip tied a plastic wire loom cover over it, temporary fix . Till I pull the starter and do a good fix I'm sure you other guys ran into this issue. Has anyone done a good fix remedy for this starter issue? Piece of heavy duty shrink rap?

Where exactly is the main ground cable located on my 98' 24 valve? And is there more than 1? My headlights are dimmer than congress:lol: and I was told to check my ground cable.

After 18 years of interesting CTD enthusiasts and transmission specialty outlets all contributing their method, or fix, to the well known TC lock unlock syndrome, I can no longer remain silent. Extensive review of many posts regarding TC lock unlock, the rerouting methodes, the add on filters for APPS and last, but not least,...the "tin-foil hat" brigade. I do realize that each individual or company that contributed to the vast amount of information on the web had good intentions and I must acknowledge that some of the procedures caused me to closely examine what these people were trying to do. I believe it is well known that even a blind mouse occasionally fi…

Just wondering where this ground attaches on a 2001 Dodge. I am not sure I changed the fender two years ago and noticed it yesterday hanging. I looked in the ground location in the service manual but can't find it. I can't believe I missed it years ago maybe ground for ABS. I would like to know before hooking up to the wrong area I know it is ground... but just wanted to put it to the right spot.

I dont know but I may have found something. I was pulling starter to clean ground wire on block when I noticed the small ground wire on starter was lose, so I went to tighten it and the groment was lose also so I said I will take it apart and tighten it, they usually have two nuts one on the inside. Well not this one, the only thing that keeps it from turning when you tighten it is the copper wires inside housing. So when I put new starter on I my have broke the wires inside starter or made a bad conection. So here is the million dollar question if the ground wires inside starter are loose or making bad conection will it cause the eng. to die for a split second then cont…

Maybe a numb question but I can figure it out. Fuse box in the engine bay, 140 amp alternator fuse, there is a positive and negative lead coming from the batteries. Why am I not getting a good ground there? Would be a nice clean place but I can’t get a good ground!! Can anyone enlighten me

ok i just picked up a street glow tripple pod and guages brand new for 40 bucks only thing is is it has a trans temp instead of egt so my question is how would some one install the trans temp sensor on a nv5600?