2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

So I’ve been having this problem with my truck, it randomly started the other day, when the truck warms up at an idle it sounds likes it missing, when I am driving it and hold it at a steady rpm around 1500 it surges and then when you rev it up, or let off the throttle to while it is in gear it takes a while to idle back down. I already tried to clean the injectors and changed the fuel filter and the water separator. Don’t know what else to do. Anybody know what’s going on?

Heading out to run errands this morning and my tranny won't shift out of 1st gear. It shifts into and out of forward and reverse but I only have first. Where do I start checking things. I'm heading out to give it a look. Maybe an electrical connection? Thanks for any help. L8tr d No codes from OBDLink & no cel

I'll start at the top auto to nv5600 swap still has auto ECM a few months ago I did fuel filter change went to prime filter realized I had no power to lift pump I needed a truck in a hurry as I use this truck for hotshotting so I hot-wired my lift pump straight to fuse block comes on with the key the grid heater has also been intermittent when it does come on it seems to cycle way faster than it usually does Next day I drove about 80 miles to pick up a load truck was sluggish the entire way got there and then truck did not want to start unhook lift pump fired right up so from what I could tell I had a bad vp44 I also had a weeping head gasket by the time Ipulle…

First off let’s start off with saying I’m glad I found your site!!! Great Job and keep up the great work!!! I have been in the Cummins thing for many years, I use to be the admin on the old SETDR site if some of you remember. That site is what kicked off the Diesel Garage and Comp Diesel sites. When SETDR died I kinda laid back and focused on other things in life. I have an 01 Dodge Cummins ( Big Red )with DD4’s, 5” exhaust, hx35 w/boost elbow, Edge Drag Comp, all the gauges, Holley blue pusher pump ( which I started the installation craze) and a full blown Sun Coast Comp Tranny w/triple lock Tq Convertor, So she’s pretty stout and build to my likeing. Last dyn…

I was installing my BHAF today and discovered that one of my batteries had blown up or something (a big piece of the top had broke loose and I could look right inside) and there seemed to be acid splattered all over under the hood:bang::bang: Any suggestions what would be the best course of action to clean this up? I did go to the car wash and washed it off good with soap then rinsed real good.

I’ll keep this brief since my phone battery is low and it’s 110°. I was driving to San Diego from Tucson when the truck started losing power, throttle did nothing. When I pulled over the truck shut off. Now I can’t get it to start. I don’t have a fuel pressure gauge. No codes. When I try to start it, it just shakes really rough

So both front axle u-joints had about 250,000 on them one blew near civilization got that one fixed didn't think about the other side at the time since I found a shop in the town I was staying at to fix it that day they slipped me in and got it done a half hour before they closed so then the other side blew coming through a mountain pass and now I'm in a hotel with no options for repair and wondering if I could do this in a parking lot with no press. Otherwise for the first time in 15+ years of owning the truck I will have to abandon it until Monday when shops in this town (Boscobel WI) open. Any suggestions? Sorry if I put this in the wrong section

My truck had an intake and 4" exhaust on it when I got it so my next step is gauges. Gonna go with Isspro ev2 boost, pyro, and fuel pressure but I'm not sure on the ranges I should go with. Boost I'm thinking 0-40 psi since my turbo is stock and I have no plans to upgrade. Pyro seems like 0-1600 is standard. Fuel pressure is where I'm unsure. I know I don't want the pressure getting too low, but what is the high end of where a stock fuel system runs? Also, will that change if/when I get a FASS/Airdog installed? Thanks!

My friend who is helping me with my vp44 install. Has the same truck as me (see sig). His truck has been clicking when he would turn the key click click click. He would just turn it off and it would then start. It got to the point where it was annoying and he first switched the fuel relay over to the starter relay to see if that would make a difference and it still clicked. ( I am not sure if they are even the same relays) ? So he decided to put a new starter in tonite. Well now it just clicks once and it will not start. If you hot wire it from the batt to the starter it starts right up. Any thoughts or Ideas we can try when he comes over tomorrow. Would really like to tr…

i have oil in my radiator and ive checked the oil cooler. is there any other possibilities that i should check before checking the head gasket??

So I noticed yesterday that I had a decent little puddle of oil under my motor yesterday when I went outside. Nothing huge, but more than the nothing I usually see. I'm having a hard time figuring what it might be though. I kind of figured it was the vacuum pump leaking, but I don't see an actual leak from the junction point between the power steering and vacuum pump. It might be coming from further forward. I'm getting most of the leakage down onto my pitman arm, then blowing over my front suspension etc. What I've Noticed: -Oil dripping down the driver's side near the frontish part of the motor, definitely somewhere behind the timing cover. Most…

Looking to identify where this plug is supposed to go the wire colors are Yellow/Blue, Yellow/Green, Black/White. It's located next to the ECM on the right side of the motor as you face the truck. just above the engine mounted fuel pump. I unplugged it from a pigtail system which is in the attached photos. There are zero markings as to what this box is/does, the small tag on the wire loom is not legible the only thing I can pick out on it is "4-02tdw". Any help would be appreciated, I reconnected the cannot plug to the left of the one in question as well that's depicted in the first photo. This was also connected to the system in box in question. …

I could use some help figuring out what turbo I have. I use to have the documentation that came with it but it got destroyed. The shop I got it from 3 years ago is closed. I have included a picture of the tag.

I am looking for a new turbo and would appreciate your input. I currently have a hx35/40. I rarely tow, but would like to keep that capability. I really want low smoke, quickish spool, and enough air to keep things cool. I like drivability and don't race. Perhaps, I have too much injector as currently I have the comp dialed back and the smarty as well. I have too much fuel for the turbo I have at present.From my reading and thinking... A 63/68/14 might work well, but I am not sure. Money is always a concern as well... Plus, anybody want a hybrid?

So as some of you may have read, I'm finally getting my trans built and now I can safely start scheming on power mods. I've been doing as much research as I can to get an idea of what I'd need to attain my power goals but I wanted to get your opinions and thoughts on the matter. Ideally I'd like to be somewhere in the neighborhood of 450-500hp. I daily drive the truck so I don't need gobs of power and I don't tow a lot, but I'd rather it perform better towing then have it be more fun when empty, if that makes sense?! Anyways, I currently have a quad xzt hooked up, but turned off to preserve my trans until it's built. I've dug through old threads re…

Got an SOS kit through CAT rental. Got the results back. Need help understanding the numbers...Lead: 1Copper: 2Iron: 23Chrome: 2Tin: 0 Nickel: 0Silver: 0Alumium: 11Silicon: 39Sodium: 10Potassium: 1Moly: 92Barium: 0Calcium: 1491Magnesium: 385Phosphorus: 1235Zinc: 1233Soot: 7Oxidation: 19Nitration: 9Sulfation: 22Visc 100c: 13.4Glycol: N/AFuel: N/AWater: NegativeDelo 400LE 15w40Comments: High Silicon indicates dirt entry into system. If you have already changed your oil, resample in 3k miles.What are the numbers measured in? PPM? Also, what do they mean dirt in system? How does this lead to a high silicon number? Do I need to changed my oil?

:banghead::cry:1998.5, 5.9, 24 Valve, 2500 Dodge P/U with 190,000 milesInstalled fuel pressure gauge, Air dog filter and pump, along with a new VP44 from RPM Diesel in Fort Lauderdale, FL. at about 183,000. Today it cranked up and ran fine until I got to work backed up and put in park. Thats when I noticed the rough idle. When I got off work it started and idled fine, ran with no loss of power all the way home at 12 PSI. At the first light off the interstate it idled fine but when I got home it started to idle rough, and then when I put it in park it became noticeably worse but revved in park and accelerated fine when put in drive. Tonight I changed the filter on the Air …

i am looking for some one who is willing to sell me their 3 cylinder high idle switch or build me one. i am willing to pay a decent amount. i cant find anything on how to make it nor am i sure i trust myself to do so. is there anyone that can help me? i could really use this feature on my truck this winter.

Last night i install a fuel psi sending unit in my vp44 at the check valve, i remove it from the vp and installed a banjo bolt then the psi snubber, then the sending unit. When i went to start it, i bleed air at sending unit to get it to start, then back up parked until the morning to finish the inside stuff then. Once i was finish it would not start. bleed again, but did'nt get any fuel. remove banjo at back of filter and i did the crank-no-start thing for the pump to start and it was but nothing coming out of the banjo at all. Was on a slope driveway and I had 1/4 tank of fuel, went and got 5 more gallons, still nothing. I then went and fired up the air compressor to pu…

ok, to some of you who have followed a couple of my posts in the last days... I have some more info on my problems:along with the intermittent check engine light, some engine surging, and dying at idle, (again, only occasionally)... I noticed the tach was bouncing from 0 up to actual engine speed. I shut it off while the tach was reading "0"..... and it would not restart. I tried in about 30 seconds, and it popped right off, and the tach was working fine.Today was the first time I actually got to 'test' drive this.. my son and wife are the ones who relayed the info to me, which I posted here.Today, I actually got to key the di…