2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain
This is a discussion forum of the 1998.5 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins 24 Valve Turbo Diesel power train and drive line system. This includes all sub-system including wiring, fuel, oil, exhaust, air, transmission, computers and sensors.
6,275 topics in this forum
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I have the first year of 4 wheel disc brakes. For those who have owned both disc and drum rears...are there definate advantages to the discs? Pro's and con's??? Enough of a difference to look specifically for 2001.5 and newer? Limits your options a lot!
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- 35 replies
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I had a new torque converter installed about 50,000 miles ago. I'm not real happy with the low stall aspects of it. When you shift into gear it hits pretty hard. My question is...if I installed a towing valve body which increases line pressure, will the shift into gear be even more exaggerated? Is this adjustable at all? Would installing a new valve body increase the life expectancy of my 47re? It's got 215,000 miles on it. I tend to baby the transmission. I don't lug it much. Tend to keep rpms higher when under a heavy load. Third question...with the upgraded valve body can I get more control of shifting? Obviously I can select 1,2 and lock out overdrive. But the control…
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- 6 replies
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I want to start off by saying a huge thank you to @Mopar1973Man for providing this excellent resource for the ram community! I had the P0122 code and the truck would just randomly turn off after a few minutes of running. Would happen whether parked, driving, on a hill, on flat gound, under acceleration, and deceleration. It didn't matter what the truck was doing, it would just turn off. It started off doing intermittently and then just got worse and worse to where it happens quite frequently. I replaced the factory APPS with a Timbo APPS and did the learn procedure. It seemed to fix the problem. But after a while the CEL would return. Then started the random d…
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Did a clutch swap in my NV5600 and lost some of the fluid. I just changed the fluid last spring so would just like to add to it to get the proper amount rather than draining it out and putting new in. (Fluid still looks clear) No idea how much I lost so don't know how much to put back in. Top it off until it comes up over the gears be a stopping point or is that too much? I should add I know theres the plug on the side to check, but I cant remember how far up past the plug it went last time I put the extra bottle in..thats why I ask the question thanks
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- 10 replies
- 2.6k views
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The sage of the leaking cooler lines continues. In Dec 2014 replaced the hard line from the cooler to the transmission, it started leaking. Thought it was the rubber hose with the PITA connector. Bought a replacement from NAPA, it leaked worse than when I started. Took it back apart and found it cracked by the ferrule in the hard line. NAPA replaced it under warranty. Now the line from the front cooler to the block mounted cooler is split. The replacement line is 95.00 NAPA/ 67.00 AMAZON. Just frustrated. Anyone changed out all the line for something different?
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- 12 replies
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What's the best way to clean the puke bottle overflow out of the radiator? I have a power washer, but not a steam cleaner. I realize it needs to be taken off the vehicle for access.
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- 8 replies
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Well gents I have put over 30,000 miles on this truck since I purchased it and I have had an interesting knocking noise. It is beginning to bug me so I plan on finding whats causing it. I have been told cracked flexplate, loose converter bolts (checked a few days ago all tight), loose flexplate bolts on the crank and even cracked pistons. The engine has over a quarter million miles and there is some mild blow-by (within spec) and oil analysis shows low wear metals. The transmission is built and the converter is custom (triple disk billet). Injectors are currently 4% balanced and of course the wrong VP44 . Any ideas please let me know. I would prefer to not p…
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- 37 replies
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I just got done pulling my 5th wheel for about an hour and when I stopped I noticed that there was a good amount of coolant splattered down the underside of my truck. As far as I can see it is not coming from the radiator or any hoses. It is wet on both sides of the motor and not mostly down low. My question is if the water pump was leaking would it leak down inside the front cover and come out the bottom. It is very hard to tell where this is coming from.
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- 2 replies
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I knew I was low, but the hill out of my house ran me out of diesel. Scangauge said I had 4.8 miles to empty, which is set for 32 gallons. Bottom line is ran dry. I'd of been fine on more less level ground. But the 10% grade out of my house put all the fuel out of the pickup area. I can't remember which lines are suggested to crack, but I did what was easy...1,3&4. Fired up after bleeding those. Yahoo!!! First time I've run the truck dry.
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- 8 replies
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Hey all, I have found that the deeper I delve into this site and others I learn just enough to get me into trouble, and then dig even deeper to find a fix. My question is, what problems might you suspect if you: A) let batteries die, or B) took APPS off to test, and then did not do a reset of the APPS? I ask because I have done both without resetting, and had started getting issues related to one of our favorites: Tourque converter lockup. I have done the reset now and SEEM to have solved the issue... At least for now, we will see if it comes back. As far as the alternator, I do not currently have a voltmeter in the proper range to test for AC noise.…
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Hi gents, New here to the forum picked myself up a 2002 24v a few months back, I'm still in school so haven't got to working on the truck much yet but did notice I had a few codes when I bought it: P1594 - Charging system voltage too high P1492 - Ambient/Battery temp sensor volts too high P1763 - Governor pressure sensor volts too high Anyone had any experience on where to start with these codes? Truck runs well, only problem is when it warms up it seems to have a rough idle when not in gear. No issues starting even in the middle of winter, fires right up. Thanks in advance for the help.
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- 8 replies
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So in the recent past, I had coolant spurt out of my radiator cap or overflow bottle. I know this because there were little spots all over the engine bay that were obviously coolant. I can't remember if my radiator cap had come loose allowing it to spray, or if it just came from the overflow bottle. I know at one point my overflow bottle was really high, like above the MAX line so I drained a little bit and then it seemed to be too low. I must've done this when the engine was still hot and just didn't think about it, so it probably would've just drained back down to a normal level had I left it. Well I figured now is as good as time as any to change the thermo…
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Hey all, Getting ready to replace my rear driveshaft U joints. I know the rearmost one is going bad because the caps were a little hard to spin when we had it out to do my clutch. I figured if Im doing one, I might as well do all three. I also have a slight shaking that happens right around 40 mph, and I'm hoping replacing the U joints will take care of it. I helped my dad with U joints before, but it was a while ago, so I just wanted to see if anyone has any tips/tricks to share. I know to mark the driveshaft and keep it in the same orientation. I'm also planning to rent a press from autozone. I know some will say to just use a hammer, but I'm a little worried about…
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- 39 replies
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So I've come to my senses a bit thanks to @TFaoro and have decided that I need to cannibalize my fleet and throw the HX that's in my 99 into the 02 since that's the truck that's staying for the long haul. Now, with that being said, I do have some questions. - Do I take out the entire thing?! (turbine & compressor housings n such?) - I figure I should get a rebuild kit for the HX since I know it's never been done, anything else besides the basic kit DAP sells? - Anything else I should look at changing or upgrading while I have it apart? - Tyler I know you got yours all nice and polished when you did your rebuild, where/how did you do that?
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- 30 replies
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So I bought a "built" transmission last spring and have pretty much had problems with it since I picked it up, when I got around to putting it in and took it for a test drive all I had was 2nd and 3rd and manual 1st. The trans builder thought it was a bad pressure sensor but come to find out he had built it for a 99 and I have a 2002 so it had the wrong vb wiring. I also noticed that this "built" transmissions band was so out of adjustment I could put my entire finger under the apply lever which was also still stock along with the old used accumulator piston that was just floating around in there with no spring behind it. Well I ended up having the builder come out and r…
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- 38 replies
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Where can I get a ECM repaired? I need someone I can trust to repair my E CM for my 98 24 valve.
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- 8 replies
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Hey guys, Late last year I noticed my front passenger side axle seal was leaking, so I had a local place replace it. Well just the other week, approximately 7 months after the replacement, I noticed it was leaking again. I took it back to the shop and the replaced it again and told me to keep an eye on it and let them know if it started up again. Well here we are a week later and its leaking again. What can the issue be??? All I can think of is that they are screwing it up, or the vent tube is blocked maybe. Any ideas? Second question. Last few days it seemed like my trans is shifting a little different. Not totally sure, just kinda seems it. Anywa…
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Hey guys, I was thinking today and I decided it would be very convenient to have a sight glass in my nv4500 fill plug and my nv241dhd fill plug. Maybe eventually the front and rear diffs as well. Now I know from Mike's thread that the trans fill plug is 3/4 npt. What I don't know is, the t case fill plug size, and diff fill plug size. I'm also wondering if anyone has input on anything special to look for or avoid with a sight glass for this specific application? Also, anyone have a good source for these? thanks!
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- 25 replies
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Are the intake and exhaust pushrods the same dimensions (from factory)?
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- 1 reply
- 943 views
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Ok so since I'm on my second ISSPRO gauge in this truck, I've been paying extra attention to it and the FASS. Well I've noticed a couple things and just wanted to clear the air. I don't think anything a wrong but just wanted to get some extra input before I moved on to worrying about the next thing. Currently have less then 1/4 tank so keep that in mind... If/when I bump the starter, the FASS will run/prime but I don't see any fuel pressure build on my gauge. Once I finally start it takes 5+ seconds before it shows any readings which end up between 16-18 at any given point. - Anything to worry about here? While driving I noticed r…
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- 37 replies
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