2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I have a 2000 ram 2500, I bought from a friend and it’s in real good shape but just had a few minor problems.... I have sorted them all out except one, it will start fine when it is cold... then let it run, shut it off and let it sit for about 15 minutes, then it won’t start. I put a new injection pump and lift pump, I have put new fuel filter, fuel pump relay, and just finished replacing all six injectors... I fired it up after bleeding the fuel system, let it run for about 20 min, then tried again to start and it would not start... I’m desperate for suggestions... but I fear I am going to have to submit and take it to a professional... and what about this b…

Everyone knows I just did a coolant flush not to long ago and change my thermostat for the 190*F from NAPA. Come to find out the new thermostat tend to lean on the high side of the 190's. No problem. MPG numbers seemed good. I started to wonder about if I changed the thermostat from 190*F to 180*F if the IAT would follow? Guess what it does. Instead of the constant +40*F offset the 180*F makes roughly a +30*F offset with 80*F outside temp the IAT floated 105-110*F. If your looking for colder IAT temps then the thermostat will give you at least -10*F drop. This was only a 30 mile round trip to town. I'll leave it in and watch the IAT and ECT closely for the next few days. …

I have an H/O 6 speed exhaust brake 2001 3500 with 15300 miles now I was stumbling around here and found a thread on cleaning these sensors so I went ahead and pulled them out and and they where very black to say the least now I pulled a pretty good hill just to see where I was at on the EGT and boost then claened the sensors and the same numbers came up didn't seem to help right off the gitgo now should I notice a difference long term or should I be looking at somthing else. Truck seems to run fine no problems but you know could always use more power.Also I do have a banks performance chip don't remember witch one maybe this is over ridding these sensors any ideas?

Okay, so I have been wondering if my sensors were any good. So, I only managed to pull my IAT sensor and it only looked a little dirty. Nothing like what mike has in his pictures.I was gonna use a DMM to measure the ohms according to the temp. and I could not even get a reading from it. I checked the DMM and the DMM is fine. Is the IAT sensor bad?I did not have a socket to pull the MAP sensor. I need to go buy one but I'm confused about the size. Its definitely not 1 1/16".So I called o'reilly's and they quoted me $30 for the IAT sensor and $114 for the MAP sensor!Anyone also know if I can get these for cheaper? Would either one of them cause my mpg's to fall as well??

Silly question why doesn't this trick come stock. Why do we have to add all the stuff we do to make things better? Can't they make things to get the best gpms. So if I get the fooler I will need to have the re flash of the computer to have it work right if it hasn't already been done.

I'm hooking up a resistor to my IAT for the MPG mod. I'm going to use a DPDT switch. One position to the IAT for cold mornings, the other position to the resistor. The only IAT extension cord anyone has heard of is for a gasser. Are the plugs the same? Anyone know of where to get one for a diesel?

Just a quick question I hope. I was wiring up a 5 pin relay to have on toggle switch from IAT sensor to 2.2ohm resistor. On accident I touched 12v positive from battery to IAT wire, so basically I sent 12 v to ECM from one of sensor wires. ( i cut blue one in half and piggybacked to black) I haven't started truck yet and it's getting really cold out too I might wait till end of week to start. But with key on and switch off I get 143f on IAT gauge and if I flip switch on I get ambient temp of intake. I figured ill wire it up this way so the relay is not energized when I'm fooling IAT, most of time it will be fooled anyway so I'll use relay to switch to IAT only for warm up…

Well gang... I figured I'd share a experience with you all... I've got a home made high idle kit on my Cummins that electronically fools the ECM to thinking it cold and tripping the high idle software... But what was occurring is that as I drove down the highway I would listen to a random cyclic timing changing heavy advancement (heavy ping) to retarding (quiet). But I had no CEL (check engine light), codes displayed on the ScanGauge II, or unusual IAT temps. Till finally I tripped a code P0113 which I knew was a IAT sensor code and the display showed the -40*F for temp. But I reset the code and watch the display as a I traveled started seeing slightly off numbers you rea…

Where is it located on a 98.5 2500 Cummins????? i read online it was a 13/16 either mine is different or I’m looking at the wrong sensor the one I’m looking at is on the drivers side of the engine. my edge insight reads a temp of 300 all the time. (Unless its cause of my no bus problem). But everything else works as it should.

My ScanGauge2 is showing my IAT constantly at -40F. I just installed a brand new IAT sensor, with no change. Since it's reading -40f constantly, is that an indication that it has a bad ground wire? I have the IAT sensor trouble code showing until I can get this fixed. Thanks!

What are the normal numbers a person should see from the IAT sensor this time of the year? This being without a diode stuffed into the wiring connector or having one of Prowelders setup hooked up! I see about 107*. Thanks for any help.

Do ya-all think there is an upper limit for our intake air temperature? Why I ask is since putting on the BHAF I have seen temps in the high 160 sitting in traffic with the A/C on. Just thinking..……Thanks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

i just went out and fired up "Blue" (my truck) its about 8deg out and its gunna take a while to get her warmed up, so i was thinking, rather than a mechanical high idle mod, what if i put the engine under load? would there be a problem with simply applying the parking brake and dropping it into drive? (aside from having the vehicle running and in gear without anyone in it...... but i would be in it so that is a non issue, the only way i would consider leaving it unattended would be if there was a safer system or if i could devise a safer system other than the parking brake) seems to me it would warm up a lot quicker if it were under load and i think that would also solve …

Newbie here so please be gentle. I have a 99 24v, 4x4 auto 134k miles that started idling at 1000 rpm's and has a miss to it. Happened out of the blue while wife was driving. Idle stays at 1k and misses unless put in gear. when put in gear, it idles @ 900 rpm and smoothes out under load of trans while in gear. Truck runs out great as long as its accelerating but when you let off throttle you can hear it miss. Fuel psi is 19 at idle with a air dog 100 lift pump. Truck is stock besides lift pump. Only code its giving is p0234 and I found waste gate stuck. All exh temps from exh man are within 40 deg f of each other. Iat, ect , and map look good on scanner. Batteries are 6 m…

Well am I really surprised! No.Ok now I will tell you.I wrote email to chevron company asking their opinion on adding two cycle oil to my truck for lubrication.The response was: In our opinion never add oil to diesel fuel to lubricate your injecion pump!Use injector cleaner!What! injector cleaner in my fuel! I don't think so!Well I guess they have idiots working everywhere:banghead:

From reading it seems normal idle for our trucks in park is 800-850. Mine idles smooth at 750, and I’m pretty sure it always has. Been paying closer attention to the truck as I try to figure out this low boost issue and some other little things. Truck starts right up, 1/2 a crank at 20F this morning. My concern is the Nations 180 amp alternator. Just making sure this isn’t effecting performance on that. Is 750 in the acceptable range? That’s 750, no ac. Auto trans in park. High idle kicks in as it should.

Im having a strange issue occasionally. I have a 98.5 with a 5 speed transmission. When I let the clutch out, the truck usually kicks the throttle up and the truck starts to move without adding fuel from the pedal. It has recently started not doing this requiring me to use the pedal to start from a stop. Its intermittent and seems to do it when the engine is cold. The truck has RV275s and a new injection pump recently. Everything else is stock. Thanks BIll

Ok thought I had resolved my Startup Idle issue... If you watch the video the second startup is what i am talking about... the first start it barley did it the last start was normal... This behavior can happen at anytime... cold engine starts, hot engine starts... sometimes have to crank for a for or five seconds and it will startup then do it... other times like in the video link below it starts easy and does it... the weird thing is... it does not do it all the time... The truck did not do this at all before the new injectors and lift pump... other then that I think it runs great... The link below is the idle issue... second start up... a little on the firs…

Here is what it is doing: 1) Takes 1 to 1.5 secs to start... prior to injectrs/V adj... as soon as it turned over it would start.. 2) Rpm is around 740-750 with ever so slight bump to it... like its out of time or missing... it was very smooth prior to the install and had 780-800rpm. 3) I put it in reverse and it stalled (twice) when a bumped the throttle never done that before. 4) Noticeably more smoke (puff) at start up... and when i bump the throttle just sitting there it will puff smoke. Did not really do that before... 5) I was very careful installing injectors and crossover tubes they came with protective covers and i was very cautious when …

My truck ultimately runs great. It has good power. I recently replaced a crankshaft position sensor and noticed the plug will need to be replaced also. However replacing the sensor only, the check engine light has not illuminated again.However recently I have started to get a miss at idle after coming to a stop. Very slight, but noticeable. You can feel it in the truck. Not similar to the hard miss the crank shaft position sensor caused. The weird thing is my AirDog 150 has also started dropping pressure pretty bad. When new it was putting out 17psi nearly constantly, about a year later it was at 15psi. Then it kept dropping, much quicker after that. Now it is at…