2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I happen to be wondering the web a bit and stumbled across Timbo's page and he's added new videos on calibration and adjustment of the Timbo's APPS sensor. http://www.dodgecumminsapps.com/Calibration_video.html

Finally... I yanked out the old 1st Generation switch set... Man talk about a historic part. This is where the entire high idle started from. I'll most likely hold on to this forever. Neat to look back on history and see where we came from to where we are going. ECT Fooler (up fooled - down normal) IAT Fooler (up fooled - down normal) MPG (up) / High Idle (down) 3/6 Cylinder mode (3 cylinder up and 6 cylinder down) Now install the new Mopar1973Man High Idle Kit... I will admit so much nicer to have that plug at the switch. One wire basically to stuff through the firewall and easy to do. Takes a few minutes to install. It ac…

My fuel sending unit lines are rusting and starting to leak. Does anyone know a fix for this? I found a company, Tri-Starr, that makes just the steel replacement lines for $159. Looks to be good quality. Should I replace the whole unit or just the lines? http://tristarrradiator.com/dodge%20ram%20diesel%20page/dodge%20ram%20diesel%20page.html

My 2000 Ram gave codes P0606, P0121, & P0123 when temperature below about 20 DegF about three weeks ago and I knew P0606 was the death code for ECM. I had "dead pedal" after some surging but I could idle it fo 15 minutes and as the block warmed up it worked.I was somewhat surprised there is not a dealer ECM available for this truck in all of Canada and they are about $2,100 list for a REMAN that originates from Cummins. My only recourse was to buy a wrecker ECM but the Dodge expert mechanic assigned to software warned me the ECM VIN has to match the other modules or this leads to future problems with replacing other modules. He said he could not change VIN hims…

When i start the truck I have fuel pressure after about 15 seconds the lift pump shuts off and lose all pressure. I still have the wait to start light coming on i wanted to check the wire out of the ecm for power to the pump but I am not sure which wire it is. Any help would be helpful

This morning before work, it had been a few days since driving the truck. I go to start it, and it's dead! Had to quick charge it and get going on the road with about 70 percent charge. Get home and go to top the batteries off and check voltages. The terminals are getting corrosion. I just recently cleaned the terminals and re sprayed them. This happened in the duration of time from today. I can see how having the alternator do the Charging could cause am excess of venting from the battery? I checked every cells specific gravity and one Had a different value than the other battery but not by much. I can't remember by how much since I did it when I cleaned the te…

So I installed a bd super b 57/65/14 (s300g) a couple weeks ago and have put a couple hundred miles on it so far. Towed a dump trailer this week put some good highway miles on it, it wasn't a huge improvement over my holset wh1c 58/60/14 non gated. Spool is a litter better, fuel economy is a little better, it whistles louder and pulls a little better. The biggest gain is the drop in egts, dropped a couple hundred degrees. I still like it and it is an improvement but not what I was hoping for. The 60mm cover and wheel on my wh1c lit faster and pulled harder...but surged like crazy, hence it being sold. I'll report back this weekend after I abuse the super b this weekend, n…

I'm looking to get a used programmer for my 00 24v 47RE. I'm not looking for much horsepower and can't afford stacking chips, so I'm looking for one cheapo/used one to give me fuel economy. I wouldn't mind a bit of horse or a bit of smoke or whatever, but I'm really just looking for mileage, as trans improvements have yet to come. So far, been looking at Edge EZ, Diablo Powerpuck (with which I'll need a boost fooler, I guess), Superchips Flashpaq, or a Quazilla even though they're discontinued. So I guess my question is: I don't want to endanger anything with a "pressure box" but on economy setting, am I really doing any harm? If not, which of these is best for mo…

As some of you might remember my clutch has been going away. After nursing it for the past few weeks I got home to day and dont have to go back to work until a week from Monday. On top of that this is what greets me when I arrived. Sure am happy to have this and the truck gets parked tomorrow for install. There were a couple things that surprised me with the clutch. First the throw out bearing, googled the part # and it came up a bearing made in China. It would appear that it is a common bearing and apparently SKF and Timken both sell the same bearing also. No markings on the bearing what so ever. The other is the makings on the organic facing of the di…

So I definetly need to replace the lines that run from the hard lines in the engine bay to the cooler up front on the radiator. Right now they are old rubber lines. But I want to use steel braided hose and some nice fittings. The guy at the trans shop recommended 8am fittings. My question is are their fittings on the hard lines that are in the engine bay by the crank case vent or are they just like barbed on the end? That's the only thing I can't figure out. Thanks guys

Allright guys. Just as I was getting happy with my truck and trans... I decided to fine tune the TV cable. The last time I messed with the cable I got better results than trans shops. At home I wanted to adjust the tv cable and broke off the clip .. also managed to lose the clip no were to be found. I jerry rigged the cable to get to work. Shifted a little ugly but I expected this. Then my check gauges came on and my voltage dropped to 10 volts. Then down to 0. Made it work fine.. Checked the codes : P1682, 0622, 0743, 1765 ECU P1693 I know they are tranny codes but I need to know if I fried anything. Can i disconnect batteries clear code…

well... i just dumped $1500 in front suspension..... put in 100hp injectors ran fine lots of power. running out of funds to dump in this truck. Now that i had her running the way i want, i lost torque converter lockup. Im not the greatest when it comes to transmission department. but i dont feel the kick any more after 40 mph. and at highway speeds i have very little power on my 5x5 setting . i thought maybe my air filter (AFE pro dry) could be restricting becasue i noticed it has a few kinks in it like it imploded. washed it out and dont feel any difference. I have had locking/unlocking issues before and was advised by moparman to remove the noise filter..…

Anybody else run one of these? So, my two piece driveshaft has been squeaking a lot lately and after pricing out all the bushing, U joints, and then considering that I don't have access to a press, I decided to go one piece. The end cost was about 400 additional for the one piece, and it came with U joints. neato. I haven't driven it yet, but it looks nice. I know I probably could have done it cheaper, but oh well. Hopefully it runs smoothly. On a related note, finding the correct 241DHD tailshaft seal was a major difficulty. RockAuto sent me the wrong part. Autozone drove me all across the city (1 hr of driving to store to store) chasing the wrong part…

Well guys and gals I've been incredibly busy recently. Well here is the short story. I recently replaced my pressure side fuel line from the Airdog to the VP44 all is well and no issues with that project. So the pressure starts to fall off only on wide open throttle and is getting worse over time. Any time I go wide open the lift pressure falls from 16 PSI to 13 PSI I've even seen it as low as 12 PSI. This has been going on since early this month. I have replaced fuel and water separator filters twice and it makes no difference. Also it seems the electrical is having issues. I have rebuilt a section of the harness that attaches the relay into the circuit. All points th…

I have a 98.5 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 5.9 cummins and I have this weird tick noise at idle and also when I shift my truck from drive to reverse to park. In this video you can hear this ticking towards the end. I checked all my torque converter bolts and they are tight. Also you can see on some of the bolts that it looks like have been rubbing on metal. I am wondering if my flex plate is cracked and making this noise. Truck drives fine and has no power loss. Also the engine was rebuilt last summer and also has 18k on rebuild. What are your thoughts.? Watch "Flex plate broken?" on YouTube https://youtu.be/eo74OrnMqH4

I recently had the high idle enabled on my truck, as a matter of fact, I haven't driven the truck since I did that. I went out this morning to start it and it had a heck of a time firing. It would try to start, catch for just a second and then die. I cycled the grid heaters a couple of times, not sure if that helped. It finally did start and it ran like a pig. I've never seen, first hand, a truck run on 3 cyl, but I imagine this was it. It seemed like there was a miss, sounded awful. You should have seen my wife's face when I went back in the house. After about 10 seconds the idle changed in an instant and ran smooth; the RPMs ran up to around 1200ish (High idle?) …

02 3500 QC6 speed RWD 215k Independent front suspension. When driving straight or turning left, there is some kind of low mechanical grinding sound coming from the right side of my truck. With it is a slight vibration. Hard to tell if it's from the front or rear of truck. The sound disappears when making right turns. The tone changes with speed increase or decrease, and its most noticeable between 40mph and 60mph so it's definitely something rotational. No difference if truck is in gear or coasting in neutral. Issue has been gradually getting worse over the past few months. I suspect front right wheel bearing but would like to hear some opinions here. …

Recently installed hamilton 188 220 cam in my 02 ram, followed all breakin and install procedures and it decided after the 3rd and final lash sequence to Gaul and seize on 5 of the seven journals. Now I pull the engine and do a full rebuild! Dang it.

Recently my oil factory gauge drops to zero, and the check gauges comes on and the warning buzzer goes off. This can happen 3x in 1/4 mile or once in 30 miles. Checked for codes, checked oil level, recent oil change about 1500 miles ago. I am thinking it is the oil pressure sender going bad. Just wondering if there is something I am missing. Did a search on the site and can't find anything on the oil pressure sender. I have been thinking about a 4th gauge on the pillar. This might be a good time for an oil pressure gauge! Any comments are appreciated.

Last summer I found some wheels/tires from a 3rd gen truck for cheap. $100. Included some tires which were around 25% tread. Those serviced me until this week. Stumbled onto another set with 60% tread for $200. These are Wild Country Raidial XLT's. These will get me through the winter. Then I'll have 2 sets of chrome rims to mount winter/summer tires onto. Plus I'm working on going to 3rd gen brakes. My question is ...are the benefit of 3rd gen brakes mostly seen in the front, or do front and rear both add to braking ability?