2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Any one know if an Isspro F/P gauge can be disconnected at the back to bleed off the air and then reinserted and retightened without buying a new compression wring? I'm not aware of how the plastic tube is sealed whether a compression wring like plumbing or what

Should the Apps be reset after vp44 install? Or let me say my truck batts. have been disconected sence Friday just setting in shop.

Ok so i did the vent relocation mod shortly after i got my truck a couple of years ago, and cleaned the mess out of the radiator. Where the tube exits is just above the front diff/ujoint. It pushes enough oil out of the pipe to completely drench my u joint and drip on the ground. I have seen some videos and it seems this is excessive. :think:I also have a headgasket leaking externally so i figured no need to just go part way. I am saving for a overhaul now. Just wanted to double check the obvious. :banghead:

OK, I'm finally gonna spend some $$$ and get a cold air intake, high rise intake manifold, and injectors. What I'm wondering is which is best for each. Here is what I was going to buy before asking for suggestions, let me know how good or bad this combination will be. 1. Injectors: DDP 100hp 2. Intake Manifold: CFM 3. Cold Air Intake: S & B The only othe upgrades I currently have is a Edge Juice Box, Air Dog 150, Upgraded Turbo, and 4 inch exhaust. Let me know what you guys think.

so i went to the pawn shop earlier to sell some tool boxes, and i noticed my truck took a fraction of a second too long to crank...i thought no big deal...and then goin there(it's only a mile from my house) i felt what i thought may be the dreaded dead pedal...but in my case it was that it went back to idle with my foot on it....so anyway i ignored it.... i then left the pawn shop(with my toolboxes still) and drove at the most 2 miles and all of a sudden it starts missing and dies on me....i had to get pulled to a friend's house by a 6.7 too... so anyway...before the questions arise, i'm running an air tex stock replacement fuel pump, which works...but admitedly no fuel p…

So I'm getting a strange oder out of my vents when I first turn them on but goes away after a little bit. Everything works fine, A/c and heat work great. Its not a sweet smell at all so I'm pretty sure its not the heater core. Any thoughts let me know.

I have a '01 Dodge Cummins 4x4 automatic -truck had to go into the shop...being told that the wiring harness has melted together and we need a complete new one to the tune of 1065.00 plus 450.00 labor. It was flashing an ECM code and surging while driving which was the main reason it was taken in. Has anyone else had this happen or know why it might happen, or has anyone had to replace their wiring harness before?

My radiator cap has green sludge around it. Any ideas? Oil is normal

Hi Guys/Gals,Im working on a 2001 dodge cummings 3/4 4*4. auto. The truck starts great will idle but if you drive before its at operating temp it just tops out at 1100-1200 rpms smokes black/ blue then holding full thottle will slowly start picking up rpms then all of a sudden around 3000 rpms just runs great like a champ wont happen again untill a cold start. no codes. doesnt burn oil/coolant. fuel psi great. I have checked everything I can think of. any ideas? Thanks a bunch.

Looks like im going to be replacing the head gasket this next week. Any suggestions on where to get the gaskets from would be greatly appreciated.

I know that lots off you run isspro gauge kit but i see glow shift kit on the internet is this a good kit for me my truck is all stuck but i've a probleme and i want to see my boost pressure, The fuel pressure and pyrometer egt gauge. The boost pressure is mecanic gauge and the 2 other is electrical. 60psi boost , pyrometer egt gauge 1500 and the fuel pressure 30psi all that for 240.00$ i know its not the best butt is anyone run this kit and have comment thanks every body

I'm ready to install my Autometer Boost and Pyrometer Gages. I am concerned with the exhaust manifold drilling necessary to install the Pyrometer guage. The directions are all here and installation is no big deal but I do not trust myself with the drilling so I think it would be better to remove the exhaust manifold and have a Machine shop do the drilling and tapping of the threads, also I would know that there was no debris left to destroy the Turbo. So my question. Is there any gaskets other than the Exhaust Manifold and the Flange gasket seal and is it necessary to disconnect the Turbo from the exhaust down pipe? I know these are simple questions but I've never…

Does anyone know if someone makes a replacement pedal rod/input rod for 2nd gen hydroboosts? I have a staked input rod that needs to be cut in order to replace the seals.

What are he symptoms of a dying Vp44? Current one has 15 k on it the P.O. put it on a while ago in 2014 I think... as you know I have been having power issues but now it’s been fine lately. Not gonna be surprised if it comes back though. This was my next concern with the power issue. Is there a way to test the pump?

I have a 98.5 24 valve cummins, somtimes when I start up I can barely touch the accelerator pedal and its acts like I held the thing wide open. Then I can shut it off and start back up and its back to normal. It doesnt happen at a particular time it is as random as anything. It is really driving me crazy.

Radiator filled with engine oil...FAST! Took about 15 minutes to empty half my pan. Ran just fine. NO LEAKS in the oil cooler. Could an oil cooler gasket fail enough to allow that much oil into the water jacket?

Boost – Be advised that upon initial start up, you will not register a boost “number.” It takes engine load to make exhaust flow; thus intake boost pressure. You will find the boost pressure will parallel the position of your accelerator pedal. Typical 60 mph, half-throttle boost number is 8 – 10 psi.Rule of thumb: every psi of boost equals 10 horsepower (i.e. 10 psi means you’re using 100 horsepower to motor down the road). Full throttle equals full boost. ‘94 – ‘97 trucks have a maximum boost specification of 15 – 18 psi. The 215 hp, ‘96 – ‘98 trucks have a maximum boost specification of 21 – 23 psi. The ‘98 – ‘02, 24-valve engines have a maximum boost specificat…

New here so haven’t read all the posts yet. I have a 1999 Dodge 3500 5.9 Cummins 24 valve. Truck sat for 12 years after my dads death. Been working on it for the last 6 months. New VP44, lift pump, fuel filter and so on. New turbo, APPS, all sensors and so on. My issue now is I can drive the truck as long and far as I want to, no issues, no power loss. As soon as I shut it off and I re start it after being off for 15 mins up to two hrs, it will run for five mins or so and just shut off. Won’t restart until it sits a couple of hours. I know this isn’t a good practice but tried it twice, I can put about 16 oz of water on ecm (not on wire harness) and wait 5 mins and it will…

The outer seal in the drivers side of the front axle is leaking and getting worse. I first noticed this at a hotel a month ago then last night at the hotel we left a puddle on the ground, I know gear oil when I smell it so I know that the axle is leaking fluid onto the tyre and ground. I've done this before but never on this axle or this truck my question's are do you guys know of any tips or trick when it comes to these trucks do I need an axle puller how much time do you reckon is involved in this repair. Any input or advice is appreciated right now is the worst time for this truck to go down with a major repair thanks in advance.

I hear the killer dowel pin is a hot topic again. So what's this about the 01's and some 02's