2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Hey guys, I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction here. I've helped and been helped a lot on this forum regarding my Ram 2500. I have another question and was wondering if anyone knew of a good place to check. I recently got a 2012 freightliner cascadia with a dd13 12.8 Detroit with an eaton fuller ten speed. The manual says the governer kicks in at 2000 something rpm and mine cuts all power at about 1650 no matter the gear you're in. Twice the other day as I was pulling logs up a hill in 8th it suddenly opened back up while I was bouncing off the governer and cranked right up to 2000 rpm, letting me grab one more. Any ideas why it randomly…

O.K. I TO had been struggling with this stalling issue..but.. about 2-months ago i thought i had fixed it buy replacing some ground connections and a TIMBP APPPS...Wrong....yestarday it done it again..thing is..it is random..and unlike SASQCH & JOHNFAK ..MINE does not seem to do it when it cold...only does it after its warmed up and has been ran a few miles...mine too will pull down rpms real low at times but does not stall but it almost does..:banghead: I am curious..has anyone had this issue that is running stock injectors and stock SO VP pump??? Richie

I hooked up the geno's vulcan fuel pressure gauge this afternoon, and am getting 14.5 - 15 psi at idle, with a drop during normal acceleration to around 12-13 psi, and steady state psi at 45 mph (haven't been out on the highway yet) of around 14 psi. Are these numbers good/about what others are seeing with stock setup?Thanks.I'm still waiting on my fuel line for my isspro gauge, and was bored today, so installed the tapped banjo into the outlet port on the filter, connected the vulcan test gauge, zip tied open the needle valve so it wouldn't turn, leaving my test port on the filter for my permanent gauge. Still haven't ordered the big line kit for filter to VP.

Hey guysok - here is my tranny cooler setup. Brief as possible with pics. Thanks to jim (SASQUACH).Built frame with screws/bolts and square metal tubing lowes.Purchased metal mesh from lowes also and cut to match inside of frame. Allow air in - no rocks.Drilled Angle Iron into frame with tapping screws.Used threaded metal with lock nuts in cross member so I could adjust and lock height of frame (and for removal if I need later).Attached Cooler Frame to Angle iron bolted on truck frame and threaded metal on crossmember skid plate.Cut COLD (INLET) lnlet line at front of truck directly out of OE cooler.Ran 1/2" tranny rubber hose to cooler now bolted in frame behind transfer…

So the entry road to the Laguna SECA race track has a 16% grade and my trailer weighs just south of 10k pounds. No way to get enough speed to lock up the torque converter. So I'm stuck crawling in 1st. I had to run for a few hundred yards with the transmission temp gauge north of 280 degrees. Ouch. A high idle at the top of the hill brought the temp down quickly. The fluid doesn't look or smell burnt. I think I'm going to have it flushed out anyway. What are the chances that I damaged my freshly rebuilt 48RE? Is it typical to see the trans temp get up around 220 before TC lockup? You know - on a hot day leaving stop lights and such. As soon as the TC locks up,…

I was cruising down the highway today and the truck acted like it slipped into nuetral. After that there was no go. None of the gears works, forward or reverse. At the time of the incident my temp was normal and there were no wierd noises. There was no noise when it went eiher. The truck just reved like it fell out of gear. My only guess is that I broke the input shaft. I assume that the only real answer will come by taking it apart.

I knew this day would come. I checked this morning after a seeming fail on my way home last night, according to my guage. Bearing radial clearance test failed. I don't have a tuner in my truck at this point. I will likley put one in later. I was trying to address any and all actual harware issues first to get everything working as best as possible. It looks like @Mopar1973Man is happy with his HX35/40 Hybrid (60/60/12). Would it make sense for me to put one of these in my truck based on the assummption that I will eventually put a tuner in the truck. Is that a bolt in solution or is there some fancy footwork that would …

Today my truck started bucking when I was driving. I know my lift pump was weak but I've been strapped for cash so I haven't changed it yet but now I think I'm paying for it. Just wondering if the bucking is characteristic of a blown VP44? Also when I was driving I noticed that when I curved to the left it really lost power and ran rough but when I curved right it ran much better, any ideas on this?

Well I notice after changing my oil 2 weeks go that I had not had to add any which is unusual since I have a leaky rear main seal. Today I check the oil and sure enough now I have more oil. Took the valve cover off and ran engine. Sure enough there is fuel sitting around no 2 and when shut it off and look back there is nothing there. What ever is there has gone back down the between the injector and the bore and I think I see air bubbles around no 3.. So I restarted the engine and sure enough there is air bubbles and fuel around no 3 and 4. The best I can see no 1, 5, and 6 are fine. I stuck a q tip at the bore of all of them and came back with oil on 1,5,6 and fuel aroun…

Anyone experience an oil leak after changing out your vp44? it seems to be on the driver side front of the engine but the fan is blowing it everywhere. I've used degreaser and a pressure washer on the motor/underneath and no luck. Seems like mose of it is ontop of the power steering pump but I've also seen a drip behind the harmonic balancer (running along side the motor and dropping there I believe). anyone experience anything similar it's frustrating me a whole bunch

Can anyone tell me what this is? I was tracing the rats nest of wires I inherited and found this. That spring extends behind the accelerator pedal. I might add I'm almost positive this truck was born an automatic and now has a G56

I put a mystery switch in the shifter, thank you me78569. The momentary switch is used to trip a 'switching' relay that turns on a light at the A-post next to the trans temp gauge and all so closes a 'grounding' relay that grounds the torque converter lockup solenoid. Terminal 85 of the switching relay is grounded through terminal 1 of the brake light switch which is also a ground for the ABS controller. When I engage the lock up everything is ok , then manually lock out over drive to down shift to 3ed. The check engine light comes on. There is no up shift to over drive until the lockup solenoid is ungrounded. The code that is set is p0122 throttle position sensor/swi…

I originally had to swap these in a week cause was hauling stock trailers for a living,but 6 yrs ago I burned a hole in #6 cyl this time, I tried to do it right. Fabricated trans mounts using exiting trans mount locations in frame

Are Napa map sensors any good? My truck has been thru 3 Napa map sensors in the last 4 months. I’m wondering if they’rs a deeper issue? I have noticed lately that my truck is not running well and don’t sound at all like other 24 valves around. It idles rougher and overall sounds way different. Valve lash is good fuel pressure is good. I have a set of stock injectors I’m putting in soon and I may replumb the entire fuel system as I’m wondering about air in fuel. What you guys think? I’m getting very fed up with how it runs.

ExxonMobil has announced that NASCAR began this month using Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy and Mobil Delvac 1 LE 5W-30 engine oil in its 65-truck fleet as part of the sport’s Race to Green initiative. Tony Stewart, driver of the No. 14 Mobil 1 and Bass Pro Shops Chevrolet SS, introduced the the new oils by ceremoniously topping off his a 2014 Chevrolet SS with Mobil 1 on April 4, prior to the start of the Duck Commander 500 Sprint Cup Series race that weekend. Michael Lynch, VP of Green Innovation for NASCAR, joined Stewart in topping off one of the NASCAR hauler trucks with Mobil Delvac 1 LE 5W-30.

Hey guys, quick question. I ordered a Nations 180A alternator for my 02 cummins. Is it a drop in/plug and play? Does anything need to be changed with it? I have the bosch 136A currently and am trying to reduce AC ripple.

I am doing a Cummins swap to a 1995 v10 3500 the Cummins is a 1999 5.9 diesel the truck was wrecked and busted the PDC I can not find one anyone have any ideas

At Les Schwab to buy a set of M-55's and switch from the old and corroded aftermarket aluminum dully wheels to stock steel and found out that my lugnuts will not work with the stock wheel and that i need to buy a set of 32 lugnuts at $11 bucks a piece. Can any one help? On a side note i am thinking of putting a second fuel tank in place of the spare tire. direct me to a old thread or chime in. My idea is to have the second tank feed into the stock one, so when the stock tank gets dry flip a switch and refill it with the second tank.

I bought a Banks brake used and I need a flanged down pipe. I already have 4" exhaust but it is necked down to match the stock turbo outlet. The Banks brake has a 4" outlet, flanged. They want over 200.00 for the down pipe alone!!!

Does anyone know, or can anybody check what the voltage on C1 Pin8 on the PCM is at idle? I am trying to figure out if the ecm modifies the CKP sensor signal or if it just sends the same signal. I suspected I had a bad ECM and I sent it out for a rebuild from auto computer specialist and they did a full rebuild but I’m still having the same issues. I replaced the CKP sensor a few years ago due to the tach dropping out and a no start issue but I couldn’t get a cummins part so I used an eichlin sensor. When I hooked up a scan tool I had CKP signal and CMP signal but no engine speed at the PCM. For testing purposes could I jump the signal wire from the CKP sensor to the engi…