2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

trying to up my trans knowledge and figure out what effect different spring rates have on 2nd gear servo operation. There a 3 holes in the front servo bore. im assuming the oil comes in through the top hole and pushes down on the top of the piston pushing against spring tension causing the center pin to push down on the band strut and causing the band to tighten. question is where does the oil come from? where does it go? from there what causes the servo to release tension and what are the 2 bottom holes for? I’m assuming a stiffer spring would cause a reduction in pressure on the servo center pin… or does a sprin…

@Dynamic This one is seeking your advice. I can't afford one of your valve bodies or a converter right now so its time for a shift kit. Transmission was rebuilt to factory specs by Cottman Transmission about 25,000 miles ago, before i bought it. Works fine, no slipping or other issues. I use it for a daily driver with occasional hauling/towing, max load of 10,000lbs. I have installed Sonnax accumulator piston, second gear super servo, billet band strut and anchor, Rostra transducer & OD/TC solenoids, Borg Warner pressure solenoid, LPW deep pan, and adjusted bands and TV cable. I do not like how these transmissions shift. To me they shift too soft. I like a trans that …

I rebuilt my 47re all new parts with a ATS rebuilt shift solenoid. On cold start shifts fine until you you stop it doesn’t down shift and it then starts in second gear and will not go to over drive. basically have reverse, second and drive. (scanner indicates short in solenoid)

My trans stuck in 2nd after rebuild changed gov an tranducer. And has no codes was thinkin maybe kickdown cable Should i adjust slack screw should that lever be touching valva body pin

Tranny jerking from 4 into OD. Feels like Engine is cutting out.

OK so I recently rebuilt my 47re and have just over 1000 miles on it now . right around the 800 mile mark I started getting a pretty noticeable 2-3 bind up and I've been chasing my tail trying to catch it ever since.when I rebuilt the transmission I originally put in a superior front servo, the one with the sleeve and 2 o rings that restricts the release oil flow. I thought that was my problem so I swapped it out for a new billet double ring, double spring servo with billet cover. That didn't cure it either. I'm all ears at this point, everybody I've talked to says go with the TCS servo and there 4.2 lever and it'll go away. But I'm not ready to drop the trans to change t…

Just another failed 3-4 accumulator spring. Had a really hard 3-4 shift and here's why:

I have noticed the last few days that my truck just skips 4th gear unlocked and goes straight to 4th gear lockup. Shift great and doesn't slip. Just wondering if this is normal. Soon as it goes from 3rd locked it shift to 4th locked with maybe 2 seconds of 4th unlocked. If it's in 4th locked and get on it or pull a hill it drops to 3rd locked, not 4th unlocked. Normal for everyone else or naw?

Ever since its warmed up, that gear hunting has come back. It's even worse now. Just out of curiosity, i called a transmission shop and asked them. They said it could be one or both governor pressure solenoid or a check ball in the valve body. How likely is that? It seems temperature dependant, which baffles me. Is the consensus still AC noise from the alternator?

First let me say Hello to everyone. My name is Jeremiah. I own an 02 that i bought new. currently has 168k. I still love the truck but it has me very frustrated lately and I need some advice. This is going to get long winded but im going to do my best to describe whats going on. It has a Banks big hoss tuner thats 70hp and some 65hp injectors. fairly mild set up and im very happy with how it performs. several years ago I had torque converter problems. it shuttered in lock up, and you could power through the clutch while it was locked. the more you loaded the engine ( such as in 4x4, or pulling a trailer) the worse the shaking got. i limped it along until it go…

Well, I'm pretty sure my 47Re (I think? It's a 99) is toast or the converter is toast. Here's what's going on...When going from "P" to "R" you can feel the tranny "jerk" as it catches gear. All seems fine In Reverse. When you go from park to D 1 2 3 or from reverse to D123 there is no catch or feeling that it's going in gear. If I get onto it, it will finally start to move but you can tell there is major slip. On the hwy it will constantly search for a gear, grab launch forward all of a sudden, slip slow way down, or what feels like a downshift and the motor will rev way up. At 60mph I'm turning almost 3k just to keep it going. Pulled up to a relight earlier and felt the …

I know there is a lot of different opinions on the internet on purchasing a billet input shaft, but I have not seen a lot posted here. What do you guys think of purchasing a billet input shaft? I am rebuilding my 47RE with a triple disc converter and a towing shift kit and were wondering if I should get a billet input for it. I am purchasing a billet flex plate also for it. My sole purpose for this 3500 4x4 is towing a 16' trailer with aluminum ladders and aluminum screen enclosures on it for mu Construction Company, which really isn't a lot for the 3500 towing capabilities. I just don't know if the shaft is needed? No I don't hot rod the truck, because its one of my com…

Pulling the trigger this week on my transmission build. I've been looking at valve bodies, and was wondering what the difference if any there is between ATS and BD? Also looking at rebuild kits, and looking for suggestions. I'm picking up a used 47re for the valve body core exchange and to build then swap to decrease truck down time, and while its on the bench figured I'd go through it so I know whats going back into the truck. Plan for the truck is right around 475 horse. Other parts I'm considering are a Mag Hytech tranny pan, ATS input shaft, and BD low stall torque converter. I only want to do this once. I'm open to suggestions.

Currently I have a stock 47re trans as far as my knowledge ( Previous owner had it rebuild but no records of the work done). End goal is to take the truck to 300 - 350hp and cap it. I want to build a reliable towing trans out of what I have and eventually look at a GearVendor gear splitter if I ever get around to it. As it stands now though, its a completely stock motor and trans combo that all works like it should but I want to try to get ahead of the ball on doing the preventative maintenance on it. I'd like to know what I will have to get swapped out and recommendations on what to get. I'd rather overkill the trans than it give out on my 1000+ mile road trips with the …

I've read Dynamic's posts about not using Alto Red frictions and steels, so what else do I need to know? I'll be doing it myself (with the assistance of a Chrysler master transmission tech) in a nice, clean, air-conditioned garage, and I'll be pressure-washing the underside of the truck and the transmission case once it's out. Problems currently are no 1-2 shift unless I lift completely off the throttle, and a leaky rear seal. The kickdown lever is broken, which allows the 2nd gear band to float free above the drum. 2-3 and 3-4 are essentially normal shifts. I've already got an FTI single-disc converter and a Suncoast billet governor solenoid plate and oversized/…

This is my first post so I'll try to get everything out on the table. Let me start by saying I have done all of the work on my truck 1998.5 24v dodge 2500. My current mods in my signature are up to date as of today. So first mods into the transmission which is the 47RE included a BD Stage 3 build kit following a goerend triple disk. I drove it that way for a little over 3 months. Money came around now I just recently purchased the ranging pressure valve body from goerend. Still running stock flexplate and shafts(I know not a good thing to do). After installing the new VB everything was fine for all of about 2 days. On the 3rd day is when the problems started. …

I am in the need to have a transmission built for my truck (in sig). I would LOVE a fully built unit, but at this point in life funds just arnt there for a fully built monster. I have been looking around and a friend told me about Cottman Transmissions. The company he works for has had them put together some trannys for there work trucks before and they have had good luck. I am wondering if anyone on here has used them, or knows anything about them. I asked IF I could supply the TQ converter and VB but they said they wont install customer parts. They use Trans star and Whit (?) products. Has anyone heard of them? I would like to atleast get a decent single disc conveter, …

I got confirmation on the likely death of my VP44 and have been lining up funds to buy parts. I also had leaking transmission lines so was going to put in the 47RE cooler line replacement kit, but it is out of stock. How do I find out what the eta is on it coming back into stock?

Well my 47re decided to start making noises and lose reverse this morning. Im in the UK and going to need a complete trans or rebuild kit inc TC shipped to the UK my power goal will be 450-500hp who will people reccomend for my needs. Hoping not to spend more than around 3500USD. Thanks guys

The other day I broke the handle off on my ATF dipstick and had to cover the fill tube with aluminum foil till a new stick comes in on Tuesday. Since covering the tube with a plastic bag then foil and zip tying so it's almost air tight and isn't going to fall off the transmission is shuttle shifting between 3rd and 3rd lock (OD off, around town driving under 50mph). Does the fill tube vent transmission pressure gas? And could this cause my shuttle shift? Or should I catch up on the lock/unlock topic?