2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I bought the truck 3 years ago and never noticed the WTS light didnt work but it still started and worked fine. I rebuilt the top end last summer and after that the WTS light started working normally. About a month ago I realized the starter was going bad because it would just click but if I tried it once or twice again it would start, a few weeks later I was planning on going on a camping trip so I swapped the starter for a new one, I disconnected the batteries when doing so but at the end I tightened the top bolt last and then hooked up the batteries, I recall hooking up the batteries then making sure the bottom bolts were tight and arking the wrench on the positive t…

Ive been having this problem for months now with my '99 Dodge . It comes and goes, but what happens is all my gauges quit working, "Nobus" shows in the odometer, the truck quits charging, it shifts funny. Me and my buddy have been all thru this truck, all the grounds are good, I checked the plug in the fuse box thats under the hood, and I checked the ignition switch. The code I get from the OBD is P1698 and if I do the Actuator test for the insturment cluster I get codes 920 and 921. (when this truck was at another garage they had the pcm off and opend the back of it) Anyway im positive its the pcm thats bad, and im going to order a new one monday unless someone here thin…

Okay guys, on friday as i started up the truck, there was this loud buzzin sound coming from the front end, then faded out. Truck ran fine on the way to work. At the end of the day, same noise, same result, but truck started to stall out. Any feedback would be appreciated.

I had high speed (50 mph or >) power loss when accelerating.....it surged or cut out. I replaced the pressure sensor. I now have a whine at turbo spool up.It doesn't seem to surge as much. I rigged a pressure tester and checked for intercooler leaks. Can't find any major leaks just a few small bubbles around one clamp. What could cause turbo whine with high speed power loss. The turbo blades are clean and feel tight...no wobble. Fuel clean, fuel pressure good. Ideas, or suggestions appreciated!

So I have 2 nv4500's and the plan was to run both of them into the ground & get the cryogenically treated ones. But for the same cost I could get a g56? But Idk anything about the swap. Any chance y'all have a thorough write up? / what might I I need to do it? Edit found info but I think I'll just wait. Just exploring options my u bad can delete this thread.

Long story short my truck stopped running the other day out of the blue in my driveway. No power going to injection pump or external air dog lift pump. I can jump out relays for both and truck starts and idles only. All power and grounds to Ecm checked out good, evrything i tested pointed to bad ECM. Replaced it tonight and still have same GD issue..... I'm at a total loss right now and dont know which direction to go.......need ideas:banghead:It's a 2002 2500 24v automatic

This question gets asked a lot here, so I figured I'd take a video. Right now this engine has between 11,000 and 12,000 miles on it, and YES it has some blowby just like all engines do. My point being don't be freaked out by a little bit of blowby (Engine at 190* after a 40 mile drive)

MY 2001 temp runs between 195 and 205 degrees. I changed thermostat, took radiator out flushed it and cleaned it and degreased it. Thought it might be running warm cause of blowbye blowing on radiator. Radiator schrouds were in good shape so im open to any suggestions. Thanks

I got called out to a site that has a JCB 416 loading shovel, 4.4 Perkins 4 cylinder diesel that was misfiring (or so the muppets at the site said. Got there and started it to check, misfiring was an understatement, fuel filters all clean, air cleaner too. Slackened injector lines off one by one 1. RPM dropped a lot barely running, good spray 2. Same as No1 3. Ran much better with no3 line slightly loosened and rpm actually increased, bubbling air when loosened, rpm decreased on tightening injector line. 4. Same as 1 and 2 So decided to pull no3 injector as I figured injector pintle not closing for some reason IE tip dropped off or pin…

Hi all. I'm running into an issue that's got me pretty frustrated, and I'm not making a ton of progress, but I've ruled a lot of stuff out. Problem: My truck never boosts over 20-21 PSI (and I think it should given my mods), EGT's also seem SLIGHTLY higher than they should be. Not noticing power issues though. History: When I got the truck a bout a year ago, it only had upgraded (RV275) injectors. It always boosted up to 19 psi and no more. I added a Diablosport Power Puck (used), boost fooler (used), and boost elbow (new), and now I get around 20 psi (occasionally 21), and no more. What I've done: - Discovered a cracked exhaust manifo…

I was a little disappointed this afternoon when I tried to install my new BHAF & it seemed like there wasn't enough space to close the hood.....I just got a Donaldson DuraLite off Vulcan Performance like a lot of folks are using.....Anybody have any idea how much space is usually left after installing the BHAF between the top of the filter & the hood.....It didn't really look like it fit to me & I definitely don't want any warping in the hood..... Also, does anybody have an idea if those bolts for the factory air box can be taken out from the bottom side.....I didn't really feel like removing my fender liner to find out if they could be taken out.....wasn…

So I am changing a clutch on my 2001 5 spd 4wd and the old pilot bushing failed and exploded which caused the clutch to fail. the issue I am having is that my flywheel has a 6205nse c3 bearing machined into it, which has a 0.9525" (25mm) id and the needle bearing that came with my new clutch has a 1.0025 od, doesn't seem to want to go- also the bushing that exploded was just a brass bushing and not a needle bearing. the guys at Napa who are usually pretty good are stumped and say they haven't seen this application on this truck before. this suckscan anyone help?

Okay, so I have been having trouble with the truck recently. If I let it sit longer than a day, I have to cycle the lift pump to prime to get the truck to fire. Takes a couple tries before it will fire too. If I drive it daily, no problem. I've posted recently about this sort of problem. Today, I primed by cycling the lift pump doing a bump start. Cranked and tried to pop off once. Every time after, no go. So I primed 3 times no go. Then I cracked the injector lines and primed multiple times, no go. I've done everything I think of to try to get it to fire. I have fuel supply to the injection pump, but anything after the pump, dry. Scan gauge show no codes.…

A few days ago truck didn't seem to make boost like it used too; I figure it was the fuel filters so I didn't worry much and just finished swapping a new gas tank, Vulcan filter kit, 1/2" fuel line from the tank to Vp, and threw a new lift pump on (same Walbro 392). Before I had 23 psi idle and 19 under a load; with no changes to the bypass I now have 20 psi at idle now and I can't get the truck under a load.I see under 10 pounds of boost when before this occurred it would peg the 25psi gauge.1594,0463,1492,1693 are the codes displayed on the dash.Any ideas? I'm praying the VP is okay. Turbo is dirty from the old oiled air filter on it but no shaft play.

My 47RE wont shift if my Quadzilla tuner is on anything other than the stock setting at WOT from a dead stop. If I let off just a bit it will shift. I know its not slipping, almost feels like torque management de-rating the engine till i let off. Any help is appreciated.

Could I please get some help. Ive trying to get my 01 6 spd manual started after sitting for 2 years now. I got the fuel problem fixed. turned the key and nothing. new batteries fully charged. Are there still neutral safety switches? something else I could be looking for ?. TIA

First real post here, been lurking in the back ground but now I have a issue you all might be able to help me with. Ok got a 02 gen 2 nv5600, air dog pump. Start it in the morning to warm up (plugged in over night) and blocked wheels cause my driveway is on a incline and my ebreak is not the strongest. Come out to leave and have to put it in gear and shut off truck then remove blocks. Go to start back up and will not start just cranks but does not fire. Now I've been able to get it to start 2 different ways when this happens, either with ether or with my smarty using it to clear the 4 codes it shows. Those codes are as follows. P0232 P0230 P1475 P1693 …

Prior to the dead batteries... the truck kicked & fired off on the first touch of the key. Since then, it has not. The engine is turning over... batteries are not fallng down. Yesterday I tried with the IAT fooler off & xzt off. Today, I went to start it. I didn't see a wait to start light. Air was 45 degrees or so. It fired like one cylinder but did not catch. Repeated. On the 4th try it started & ran. It blew a cloud of grey smoke I saw in the mirror. I stepped on it slightly & it blew more of same before it cleared up. I'm clueless... but the first thing popping into my head is "Why isn't the grid heater running?" Is it fused somewhere? …

Noticed recently that my truck sometimes doesn't fire right away, if it doesn't it will only start after turning the key to off and then start again, It is very intermittant which makes me think electrical, not noticed the WTS light yet but I'll be watching that over the next few days, no fault codes on dash but again haven't had time to drop the box on it, but over the weekend I'll get to it, I suppose it could be the VP, whatever it is I get the feeling its not going to be a cheap fix Couldn't have come at a worse time as going into hospital a week tomorrow (saturday) all being well for my hip replacement, being done on our NHS for free,1 night in hospital …

So picked up the engine for my truck today. Im not really sure what I ended up with. I cant find a 53 anywhere so I hope that is a good sign. The block in my truck has a big 53 on the drivers side lower front of the block. This block has a series of numbers. The tag says it was built 3/3/98 and is rated at 235hp. My tag says 215hp. This engine must have had a manual behind it? My plan is to swap most of the parts from my engine to this engine so I hope I dont have any problems. --- Update to the previous post... Oops. I put this in the wrong section. This is meant for the 24valve section. Sorry.