2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I saw somebody post a question about injector nozzles. It would seem that the more you can atomize the fuel when it comes out of the injector the better. I am looking at the Bosch 40 horse or 50 horse injectors. Are the nozzles on these injectors adequate? What increase in hp are the 275 injectors? Not sure what the nomenclature of 275 means here. Is there a reason to save your old injectors? Can they be brought back to life with pop testing and new nozzles?

went home las t weekend and installed my rebuilt ecm. fingers crossed i turned the switch on and the electronics cycled like i had not seen in months:hyper:. started the engine and all was fine. stepped onthe throtle and it responded. i alsmost fell out of the truck:thumb1:. the check engine light went out and out the driveway i went. i've been driving a Dakota with rack and pinnion steering and when i hammered the gas i remembered my steering was not quite the same and held on for dear life, but i could not take my foot of the pedal. she ran great. went back home and started checking things out and my son spots fuel coming from on of the injector lines on the IP. Turned …

My trucks has been shifting funny, last night I thought it was going in and out of OD to drive. Today it seemed ok when i was just driving it normally around normally, but i was messing with shifting it on a flat streach of road and if I turn off the OD i can tell it goes into drive, but if i manually put it into 2nd itll rev for a second and then its like being in neutral, but if i manually put it into first I can tell it drops into first and revs. And its the same starting from a stop. If i put the truck manually into first and pull out i can tell its in first, then if i shift to second its like hitting neutral, and then when i manually put it into drive you can tell it…

A few times now since I got my oil leak stopped, I have tried to normally start my truck and got absolutely NOTHING. Before I turn the key to the start position everything appears normal. Dash lights, key in ignition bell, etc. all work. The moment I try to start the truck, ( after checking that the "wait to start icon" is off) , I hear a "click" and everything turns off - no dash lights, no starter, nothing! It is like I have no battery installed. Thinking that my massive oil leak may have caused an electrical connection problem, I cleaned all terminals and reattached all battery and starter cables, and checked battery voltage, and checked fuses. All seemed in …

Is there a fuse I can remove to keep from starting...or something else I can do to turn over the engine to circulate some oil prior to starting? Or maybe I don't need to do anything? Currently 1/2 tank of fuel, my game plan from VP44 back to fuel tank is to drain and flush, new filters and biocide I assume pretty dry inside engine is reason for asking. (Between Thanksgiving and Christmas have lots planned...additional fuel filter, flush cooling system, WT Mod, and updated radio) Thanks

Hi guys, I would like to know if a too long filter extension can cause problem to transmission or to the pump. I custom made a deep pan 6 inch and made a 3 inch filter extension... What you think?? the company sells one with around 1 to 1.5 inch of height. Thanks Francis

Fan clutch has gone bad and need to get a new one. Which fan clutch does a good job at a fair price? I don't want an electric fan. I drive the truck only 4k to 6k miles a year and the pay back in fuel savings, if any, would be seen until after I'm dead. I've check the price on Hayden ( $102 ), NAPPA ( $122 ), and 4-Seasons ( $143 they must be real proud of theirs). So what have you put in and how do you like it?

Living in North Carolina we don't frequently see extremely low temps but last year we had a few weeks that went as low as 8 degrees. I don't think they sell winterized diesel here, at least I can't find anything that says they do. I'm wondering at what temp should I use and anti-gel supplement? Also, I always run 2-stroke oil in my fuel. Is it safe to run anti-gel with the 2-stroke when necessary?

My trans dip stick pops up a little, I shove it back down and 3 or 4 tanks worth of fuel later the dip stick has poped backed out maybe half inch. Dont know what's causing it, vibration or pressure from venting is pushing it back out. Been doing this for long time. Any ideas what's going on? and if normal is it ok to put something on it to hold down to keep dust out? Do you have this problem? Are other vent holes maybe plugged and creating more venting out of dip stick hole?

I just joined the forum back a couple of weeks with the intention of giving back as I've been a lurker for a couple of years. I am preparing for a fuel system upgrade and gauge installation. Here is the list of components I will be installing in the next couple of weeks:DTT Assassin Mechanical Fuel Pump (3/8" lines)Vulcan VP MAX Dual Remote Filter Kit (20um water separator and 3um filter)ISSPRO EV2 Electronic Gauges w/ A-Pillar 3 gauge mount (Pyro, Fuel Pressure, Boost)Block Heater (I know nothing to do with fuel system, but while the truck is down might as well get it done before winter hits)A little background on the motivation for the upgrade. I bought my 2000 back …

Well it came to bite me with age now. All my original AirDog hoses from way back in 2005 (I think) now started a leak on the line between the stock filter to the VP44. Most likely from being messed with during the gauge install. So the truck is parked for the time being and Eric is sending me a 14 foot roll of Parker Fuel line for my truck I'm going to replace all my fuel lines.

I have a 4x4 truck with a 2wd nv5600. What all do i need to install the transfer case?

Hi guys. First post, been lurking for a while. My truck had the fuel gauge issue that reads empty when there's actually still a half tank. Anyway, last night I dropped my tank and pulled the unit out. Here are the issues I noticed. First, when I disconnected the lines, I noticed the vacuum nozzle had nothing going to it. Is that normal? Second, there is another nipple that is capped off. <a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Flo22/media/Car%20Stuff/8844B518-D38B-4D60-98C3-4E74AD27EBB5_zpsdplbblrv.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v290/Flo22/Car%20Stuff/8844B518-D38B-4D60-98C3-4E74AD27EBB5_zpsdplbblrv.jpg" border=…

I have an appointment at the Dodge Dealership Saturday to get the high idle feature enabled. They said it will cost 55.00. The sound about right to you guys?

So anyways I fired up my rig this morning to go help my buddy put a lift kit on his rig. About a mile from my house the check engine light came on:banghead: it was bugging me all day. Got home and scanned it and it is a p07020. Output speed sensor is what it said. Where is it at and is it an easy fix. Can I get this part at NAPA. ????Thanks in advance.Luke

Hey all, Just pulled apart the rear hubs to service the bearings and noticed the inner bearing cone cage was deformed (probably due to my technique for removing the wheels seals, removing the outer cone and then putting the nut back on a few threads and then firmly pulling the hub toward me until the rear cone and seal pop out of the hub) . The cage is not binding any of the rollers, however, I am not really happy with putting it back in service. I am pretty sure if I do this i have to replace the race as well as the cone...Correct? The race appears to be in good shape, but I wonder about putting a new cone in w/o changing it. Also does anyone have a better way of removin…

Hello So I've been searching and can't really find a ballpark so I figured I'd ask 01 bummins. Trying to pass emmisions on it currently. Tripped the speed sensor and grid heater code came on (deleted from previous owner) replaced the speed sensor and drove it 130 miles to clear them. Speedo came back so I know speed sensors good. No change in CCM. Anyone have an idea how long this may take to complete the drive cycles if everything is good? I checked my scanner a few months back with it for another speed sensor code (Snow Donuts) and it said all my monitors were ready so I know it has the will to want to go green. Edit: when I was drivi…

Just trying to take all the steps to keep my vp going strong as I don't know its history as iv only owned the truck little over a month now. So with meter on DC engine running = 13.97 V switch to AC =.03 - .04 according to Mikes vid .1 is the limit ? so im hoping im good to go for a good while its a quik and ez check. with over 300,000 miles im assuming the VP maybe its been replaced but I don't know, it did still have a carter LP but its replaced now with a airdog 100.

Alright, so my log splitter uses 5 gallons worth of hydraulic fluid. I have to replace it all before I start splitting more wood again. I sure would hate to let it go to waste and/or pay to get rid of it. I could always throw it in the fire a little bit at a time, but I wonder if I could use it in my fuel?

Hey guys, finally got enough funds to install a Boost, Pyro, and the much needed Fuel Pressure Guages! I looked in to having them installed but it's going to run me around $300.00! So I thought I'd save my self some $ and try to find a step by step installion for them. Does anybody know where I can get my instructions preferably with pics? Thanks to all who chime in!!!!