2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain
This is a discussion forum of the 1998.5 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins 24 Valve Turbo Diesel power train and drive line system. This includes all sub-system including wiring, fuel, oil, exhaust, air, transmission, computers and sensors.
6,275 topics in this forum
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Well here is a link to a page that tells you how much oil for a given ratio. Now it will be easy to figure out a two cycle oil ratio http://www.csgnetwork.com/oilfuelcalc.html Maybee help to someone.
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I had the check gauges lamp come on and noticed low volts the other morning, it climbed back up after a few seconds and the check gauges lamp went off but the voltage was only at about 11-12v range on the gauge (usually 13-14). I took the alternator to autozone, bench tested showed bad, got a replacement and bench tested before leaving, that one tested good. Also tested batteries, both good. I installed everything and still nothing for charge voltage though. After reading some other sites about the PCM voltage regulator going bad, I got an external voltage regulator and was about to connect it up today, but I read a post here a couple of days ago and it got me th…
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Ok here goes I got some trouble codes and it ended up being the shift solenoid so i dropped the valve body to replace the solenoid and wire harness at the same time readjusted both frond and back bands. well i thought it would be a good idea to pull the valve body partially apart and clean and check valves. well i put it back together but i messed up the kick down valve and put in backwards but now it is fixed. so it shifts now. but here is the kicker shifts from 2nd to 3rd takes a bit to shift and when it does and at low rpm in 3rd it goes in and out. also i let off the petal and rpm goes all the way to idle and holds no gear. 1st just does not seem to build up …
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I have a rough procedure up and mostly completed, just need to put in torque specs and sequence of a few things and its done. this will get you from a bare block to an assembled block ready to go in the truck. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/481-24v-cummins-rebuild-step-by-step?hitcount=0
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Ok so I had a chance to really look today and plan out my setup for the AirDog system im planning to get and I couldn"t find my lift pump. The mount on the side of the just has a alum block with a line running through it, and there is no pump mounted on the frame rail. So my only other option is an in tank pump, but I have never heard of an in tank pump on an '01, but maby im wrong. If I do have an in tank pump what does this change for the AirDog system I plan on getting??
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Hello, I just joined this site after my searching has brought me here several times. I’ve read a few of the write ups by mopar1973man. I decided I could really benefit and hopefully contribute to the wealth of knowledge here! I have had this 01’ 24 valve since 08’ she’s been worked hard and now the 2nd vp44 has bit the dust at 250k miles. I have a 93’ 12 valve engine(ve pump) with only 78k miles just begging to go to work. It has 3k gov. spring, fuel pin/afc mods, 5x.012 injectors, and he351 turbo. The 01’ is an auto, 47RE ATS stage 5. So I’ve been reading up on the sensors, communications, between the ecm, pcm trying to figure out the logistics of this swap. I’ve done s…
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I got some pieces from Eric @ Vulcan and they worked out great. Anytime I open the fuel system I have to bleed the injectors and then have leaky connections for a few days. I got a ball valve and a few other parts to keep the pressure in the pump. Parts list part # 2: 1/2 push lock x 1/2 mnpt pom188 1: 1/8" mpt half union 31482 1: 1/4" sae cap 31992 1: 3/8" npt ball valve 06vlv 1: push lock T 1/2" aluminum plt8 He said a few parts werent listed on his site. I changed all my fuel line today and closed the valve off. When I got done I bumped the s…
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I am new to the Diesel world i have a 99 2500 4x4. The problem that i am having is when i start it up and barely press on the throtle or press the throttle to the floor it will only go to 1500 RPM. I can take off the negative battery cables for about 30 min and reset everthing and it may a run couple of months and then it will happen again. Can any one give me some insight on what to do to fix this problem?
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2001 with 326,000+ Previous sloppy work as VP44 had 2 top studs with nuts & rear bracket was broken. So I’m assuming original pump went out prior to 127,000 mi when I bought it. Over the last year, oil leak developed. I wasn’t overly concerned with miles upwards if 300,000 until I was adding 2 to 3 qts every 100 miles or so. Eventually traced the leak to either vacuum pump or pushrod cover. Resealed pump & replaced power steering pump. Still had the leak. Pulled the VP, Vacuum pump & the cover. Replaced the seal on the cover. Inside of 2 weeks the new rubber seal blew out again. I will use a high temp gasket sealant this time AND ADD aluminum fl…
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Well, last week I changes injectors to a stock size set I bought in hopes of gaining some mileage. They did not yield any better mileage so I put the old ones back in. When I removed them the first time the truck ran great, idled right at 800 and had balls. I pulled the injectors apart and noticed the pintle in #1 was really stuck in the nozzle. I wasnt sure if the pintles from stock injectors were the same size as bigger injectors so I measured them with a micrometor and they seemed the same so I swapped one out with the sticky one. The truck fired up pretty quickly but is idleing at 1100 rpm. What did I do wrong? --- Update to the previous post... Resset the a…
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As the title states my truck won't turn over at times as in starter won't even attempt to spin, when its happened with me I let the clutch out and push it all the way in again and we crank right up. I'm thinking/hoping that I'm getting a bad connection on the sensor that tells the computer the clutch is engaged and it's safe to start. Just want to poll the audience and make sure I'm not missing something or this is symptoms of a bigger issue. My main issue with it right now is the wife used her jeep to do some deer hunting and it's in the shop till Friday and I head out of town for work tomorrow, so if its a bigger issue, then I want to get it resolved before I leave. No …
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The good news my faithful old truck is back in the driveway! Hats off to Earnhardt Dodge in Gilbert AZ! I obviously caused the problem. A connector under the dash in the vacinity of the emergency brake pedal had a wire pulled either out or at least back far enough that it did not make connection. I am going to try and attach a picture of the techs description! Thank you to all of you who commented on my posts! Many thanks to Mopar Man for the forum! What can be learned from this? Hard to say, it cost me $760.00 to get this fixed. Am I sorry I installed my own dash and heater core? No, I can only guess what it would have cost me for the dealer to install the new lower …
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I know I have read this before but here goes anyway. My old motor ran around 40 plus on the oil pressure, new motor runs on the edge of the next mark up. A big diff. from before, and I know it could be the sending unit which I can swap out sence I have a new one on my old motor. What would the next mark up be? And where does your gauge run?
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Well here it is, after the fourth ECM on my truck we tried a test ecm from cummins, and the surge that has been there for two years is gone. HEY But the miss is still there. Ok we put truck on a delete box and what that does is it bypasses the elec. in vp and bypasses the ecm, truck ran like a dream, could not belive it if I had not heard it with my own ears. So we still think there is something going on with ecm. We know for a fact it fixed the surge. Put old ecm back on and instant surge is back. Ok one thing I have learned is there are about 12 different ecms out there for a 01 so when someone tells you there all the same - there not, I found out the hard way.
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This is rather long thanks for reading. My truck, 2002 quad cab 4x4 Superchips, Airdog, 4 inch Banks exhaust, 107,000 miles, automatic. I bought it new, has been a fantastic truck! About 5 weeks ago I started to install a new lower dash and a heater core. Disconnected the batteries, the main harness plug under the dash, took out instument cluster and unplugged all of the switches on the dash. Finally finished the dash, put everything back together, hooked up the batteries (they were disconnected for 5 weeks and they are in great shape).........Will crank and not start, tach is not working, fuel gauge does not move, got all the dash lights, odometer flashes and reads NO B…
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Hey everyone, Im new here and i have been having a problem with my 2001. I get a "grinding" noise from the transmission area that sounds like you are driving over a rumble strip. i can't figure it out what the problem is. I have tried pulling the relay for the trans out, removing the alternator fuse, and wrapping the ground wire in foil. This happens either I'm driving around town or on the highway. It does it under light acceleration but not under heavy acceleration. But it keeps making the sound when just coasting along or light pressure on the gas. I can only make it stop if I shift down to 1st and let my truck engine brake to a stop. Any suggestion would be great
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When I bought my truck it had a Isspro Fuel pressure gauge mounted in the left pillar. I installed a Fass150 and Edge Juice with attitude. 2years later, I would like to hook up the Isspro gauge again...it's just sitting there and I think its cool when it works. My question is, whats the best way to make this happen? Cut the line before/after the current one and run a completely separate setup? Will this cause any issues? Below is a pic of my current set up. Thanks for any help!!
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Gents, I have done some searching online and have not been able to solve my problem. Under acceleration I can hear a squeaking noise while accelerating however when I am decelerating in gear I can also hear the noise I believe my needle bearings have worn out on the u joint it’s self. Granted the 20 to 80 mile an hour pulls don’t help much??♂️. Any help with the sizing would be greatly appreciated. Spicer sizes preferred!
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i have a 98.5 24v truck that the previous owner did a 12v swap from a 94 truck. I have a 94 harness for the motor after i took out the 24v harness he left in (hack Job!!!) and it doesnt plug into the fuse box under the hood. Is there a adapter? anyone know where i can purchase a 98 12v harness cause i know they will plug in....or anyone know how to splice them together?
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