2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

So finally got back to actually working on the rig. I think I asked the question before but dont remember or cant find it. So I'll upload a short video on this but I have rear main and oil pan about to go on. I am uncertain on which I should first... Oil pan then rear main or vice versa...

Ok guys bear with me, I did a search on changing rear main and no luck anywhere, I know I have seen it before but cant remember. If I remember right you can replace the rear main with oil pan on or off right? Right now my eng stand has the back of my block hid so I cant see it.I need to pull my oil pan before I install eng. to clear cross member. I just wanted to do everthing I can while eng is on stand. And trying to plan it all out. getting close:hyper:

So I replaced trans, flywheel, clutch and pressure plate and while I was there I replaced the rear main seal. I noticed it leaking very little over the pasted week then I took it for 350 mile round trip and its leaking bad now. Got new seal and going to do it again, any tricks to the trade here? I know the front seal has a sleeve to install but nothing on the rear? I thought I would grease it up this time.

Its been a few years since I did this and looking for a write up to refresh my memory, cant seem to find anything.

Good day everyone, Have a few questions regarding rear main seal replacement. 1. Do I need the $200 tool to install the seal? 2. What kitsch have you guys used to not need the tool? I have to replace my seal, but don't want to have to dish out extra money for a tool I may use 1-2 times. Thanks, Tim

I'll be ordering a new clutch here soon and I know my rear main is leaking so I'll be doing them at the same time. So with that being said, any tips to taking it out an how to install it? I don't wanna play with an $80 seal and do it 2-3 times before I get it right.

Awhile back I noticed some atf on the bottom of my truck just above the front u joint of the rear driveshaft. Anyways last weekend I replaced the output shaft seal by removing the rear driveline, tried to pry the seal out to no avail so I removed the extention and smacked it out from the front end, no biggie. Installed new seal, then the driveline, filled up the transfer case and called it good. I cleaned up the previuosly leaked fluid from the underbody. Now there is fresh fluid there so I am sure it is still leaking. The sliding yoke did not feel like it had any abrasions where it rides on the seal ?? My t case says its a model 242 but the dude at the parts house said t…

Just checked my brake shoes and notice grease inside the hub and drum assembly on the left rear. No dust at all in the assembly. The right rear side was full of dust. I suspect it to be the oil seal. Only have 90k miles, is this a common problem at this mileage? Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Also, is it very difficult to change the seal? I have a shade tree Mechanic and a repair manual to go by. Thanks.Mohok

I dont know why Im having so much problem finding the right seal. I went to napa and they gave me a 22049, I should have known better cause it popped out in 3 miles, to easy to drive in. So I go to Aline and he couldnt find anything for a nv5600, he had a seal for a 5 speed so I put it in and it leaks, I put another one in because I didnt lube the seal thinking running it dry may have caused it. Nope, it leaks too. The original seal was a 33029 and cant find that seal anywhere. I was hoping someone here might have the right number before I pay 10 times to much for it at the dealer. Thanks

My plan was to take a screw driver and just collapse one side and pry it out, does anyone see any problem with that? Thanks

So Im on my 2nd rear seal in about6k miles, keeps blowing them out. I even put a little silicone on this one and still blew out. Im thinking something is not right in trans. What do you think.

Ok guys, I’ve got a low hum at 60 mph. I did some digging and the rear end u joint has side to side play in the yoke of the rear end. I’m more than convinced this is my problem. The joint itself is not bad by any stretch of the imagination. I’ve tried to shim it to hold it tight, but that was a temporary fix and did not last but a few minutes. I went to town and brought home the Spicer and SKF replacements but both new u joints also wiggle side to side. What do I do now?

1998.5 Dodge 3500 4.10 axle dually 19.5 Eagle alloy wheels with new custom steel inner rims, bead balanced tires. new drivelines trans. mount, rebuilt NV4500, DNE od. 3" leveling front 2" blocks rear. vibration in rear noticeable around 55 mph - 70 mph. enough to shake the mirrors, bed welds cracking at rear, and jingle anything in door pockets. I have visited several forums with same issue but never heard of a resolve for this. This is NOT FRONT END, TIRE, OR DRIVE LINE ISSUE. Seems like every time I read about someone having this exact same problem there are dozens of helpful people pointing at everything but the actual problem. I can take my hands off the wheel at 100 …

I looked under axles and couldnt find torque for rear wheel bearings.They werent just real tight coming off, is it just snugged up?

Ok, I cant be the only one that has screwed up doing this (I hope anyway). I did a rear brake job with new drums, brakes, wheel bearings, seals, and change rear end oil. When I took the hubs apart they had oil in them and running out everywhere. Put everything back together and 40 miles later the rear wheels lock up. WTH right. THE REAR HUBS ARE NOT SPLASH FED FROM THE REAREND. Just because you put oil in the rear end don't mean the bearings are getting any. I went and found me a big hill to park it sideways on so oil can get in the hubs, I let it set there for 15 min then swap sides let it set for 15 min that side. I plan on doing this once a month (call me crazy) but th…

Hey all, Just pulled apart the rear hubs to service the bearings and noticed the inner bearing cone cage was deformed (probably due to my technique for removing the wheels seals, removing the outer cone and then putting the nut back on a few threads and then firmly pulling the hub toward me until the rear cone and seal pop out of the hub) . The cage is not binding any of the rollers, however, I am not really happy with putting it back in service. I am pretty sure if I do this i have to replace the race as well as the cone...Correct? The race appears to be in good shape, but I wonder about putting a new cone in w/o changing it. Also does anyone have a better way of removin…

i was just wandering when you guys rebuild your engines what brand of kits do you use and can any machine shop do the work or is this something you have to make sure they know what their doing? how many of you guys do your own rebuilding, is it pretty easy or a thing a pro should do. i have rebuilt gas engines but never a diesel .

No, I don't have a write up for this but I will post the PDF document for the service manual. http://www.myholsetturbo.com/manuals/HX30_32_35_38_40_GW.pdf I'll admit it's fairly easy to do. You will need a very good pair of snap ring pliers. Everything else is a standard tools wrench and such. I did run into a snag and created a bind in the shaft. Make sure to put your thrust washer back in. Once I grab the manual and seen the exploded view of the turbo I knew right away what I missed. Sure enough dug into the ashtray I put all the old parts into and there it was. Slipped it on the shaft and it spins good. The 2 end are 12 points the turbine is 19mm 12 p…

im getting ready to rebuild a 01.5 ho motor never done this before. Planning to o-ring it, bigger studs, diff. cam, bigger injectors, heavier valve springs, and twins. Any advice, parts to go towards or stay away from.. any help or info i can get would be awsome, would like to hit 550- 600 hp

So I am rebuilding my NV 4500 out of my 99 dodge cummis. I found a little plastic piece next to my Main shaft Rear Thrust Bearing. I don't know what it is, every thing I look at doesn't show it. This is the first time I have rebuilt one of these so Im a little lost can any one help me.Daniel