2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

after reading a couple recent posts here about various symptoms, checking the wastegate for being stuck was mentioned a few times. Thought I'd check mine. Shoot some air, about 20 lbs? What kind of travel should I see if working ok? Is 90 degree bellcrank movement about right? To be honest, I don't even know if the bellcrank is even visible from the topside! I know I can see the rod going back..

Started noticing fuel dripping from the fuel filter. Looks like it is coming from in between the top of the cannister and the side. I have taken the top of the cannister off the block, looked for cracks and debris. Then I put a new filter on and it is still leaking. I don't know if the manufacturer is putting in smaller o-rings or what. Any suggestions?If I can't figure this out, looks like I will be putting a new filter setup on the truck and removing the factory cannister.

Hey guys I was having a problem that if i went around 76-80 mph on the freeway with my truck and came to a stop on the off ramp the trans would only down shift to 2nd gear. So last night I put in the Borg Warner drop in replacement and it seemed to work:hyper:. Now for the bad news, when I pulled the pan off the bottom of the pan was full of metal shavings:cry: My rebuild is about 2yrs old and when I had it done I put in the good red clutchs and it seems to shift fine with no slippage so well see what happends I hope she lasts:pray:

Just got it delivered the other day, and this thing has some torque, So far used it to rip a bunch of wild bushes out of the ground, roots and all. The wife likes it, good to have a supportive wife. Bob, (me) likes it alot, I even look like a farmer setting on it. At rest in the shop.

I'm new to the site and wanted to say thanks in advance for any help given. I had a shop diagnose my trucks issues, and they said its got a bad ecm "2002 dodge 2500 5.9 cummins six speed". I decided have my ecm sent in for repair. My Chilton repair manual doesn't mention anything special on the reinstall. They did talked about grounding your self to the vehicle and using a anti-static pad. I don't have a pad. It sounds like plug in and drive. Let me know if i'm wrong.

First time posting on a forum so have mercy lol. Buddy of mine has an 01 dodge 5spd 2wd thats recently bin running hot when driven empty and short distances(he had to limp it home driving under 1500rpm), almost to the point of over heating. He also noticed it was low on coolant although he couldn't find any leaks anywhere. So he thinks it might be a possible head gasket problem, I was thinking the running hot might be a faulty thermostate but then again a thermostate not opening wouldn't explain coolant lost.....so maybe he just can't find the leak or.....not really sure lol. He didn't say anything about white smoke when driveing, there isn't any smoke or leaks that he ca…

I need some help. I have no gauges on my dash except for my tack that works. I have put a new transmission wiring repair kit, I have cleaned all the terminals, I have checked all the wires that I can see and I put a new pcm on it. it will crank and drive but i have to start off in first and to get it started going then I can put it in drive and it will shift on its own. Im about ready to drive it off a cliff. (lol) any suggestions will be much appreciated and at this point I'm willing to try anything.

I have a lift pump acting up and replacing it Wed. On the way to this morning my check engine light came on and I got an 0237 on the code reader. I read the check list on the error code page, so my question is can the map sensor just go out causing the code or is there any correlation between a bad lift pump and a map error?

This evening i pulled in driveway, turned key off and got out as always { edge juice cool down timer} but engine never turned off. i came back to truck hit the brake which usually bypasses the edge timer but not this time.. i could not get the engine to stop running. finally i unsnapped the fuse box cover on end of dash and pulled the fuse from edge.. finally got it cut off.. now it won't start, noticed right off that fuel pump not running,, so i cycled the key three time to see if any codes on Odometer,, ALL I GET IS MILAGE BLINKING AND THEN "NO BUSS" I've unplugged the edge but still same thing blinking then NO BUSS

Hi. I changed the oil and fuel filter in my 2001 Dodge 24v Cummins, it would crank but wouldnt start after changing the fuel filter. I tried bleeding any air out from the bleeder valve and I cracked the lines to see if there was any air. I got a little air out of the bleeder valve but no air out of the lines. I got it started on staring fluid. Drove it for 2 days ran/started fine after that. Third day I go out to start it to go to work and it would just crank. So I started looking at the truck and I found that the sending unit and the plug were bad, replaced both of them now the truck will run fine in 1,2,3 gear. But once I'm in 4th and 5th gear at about 1500rpm the truck…

Wondering who has shelled out the money for the hot unlock and is it worth the money? I see Edge has 50% off right now

Now I see why they are so easy to leak. I replaced the gasket on my new motor today and the rubber gasket just crumbled in my hand.

it was 'CCd' on the overhead display for awhile. I toggled through the different displays, and finally just turned it off. When I restarted the truck awhile later, all seemed ok.on another matter, truck refused to start 5 days ago, plugged in overnight, and battery charger to boot. I gave up quickly just because I had 3 tractors 'dead' from crap fuel that needed attention first! This morning It got up to 25*, so I tried it! It stumbled to life and within 3 seconds it suddenly was running on all 6 cylinders. Perfectly. Other than 30-40* warmer than last Friday, I didn't do anything different: same fuel…

Hi pleas help I have a 99 24 valve the tranny dose not go into over drive or lock up the converter I believe it will cruise at 50 to 45 mph at 2500 rpm which I don't like the od light on the shifter dose not work I checked the bulb which is good but there are many wiring gremlins in this truck anything is appreciated

I have 4.10's in the red 99, plan to get another one but with 3.54's. I plan to convert to SRW, it's an nv4500, I was curious how big of a tire I could run to make the 4.10s= 3.54. I'll probably be on 20x10 or 20x12

So I just finished dropping an 01 engine in a 98.5 truck, dealt with the cmp signal error. But now my abs light won't go out. No abs related codes, no CELs and I can't get the ABS, motor to actuate via the scanner (modus from snap on). What am I missing?

Anyone else experience a loosening of fuel injector lines over time? I just started to smell some diesel fuel in/around the cabin and checked the lines to the head and saw some droplets around the injectors on the intake plate. Checked the tightness of some of the injectors and some weren't snugged all the way. I can only think they've loosened up over time due to general engine vibration but surprised that they did. Is there even a reqd torque spec on these? Thought they just had to be good and snug. Thanks Mark

Finally happy again with my injectors and power. Many years ago, ran DAP +60hp VCO injectors, they were pretty clean usable. Then some DFI 7x.009 +100hp VCOs, clean and powerful. Then DAP 7x.009 SACs, smokey and laggy with the super b, tuner or no tuner. Now I have about 50 miles on some Contageous 7x.008 RV275 stlye +50hp SACs, very clean and powerful with no tuner, slight haze romping on it with tuner off, and only a touch of smoke till boost builds with the tuner on. Super b is definitely more laggy than the holsets, but burns clean with rpms. Smaller injectors with the tuner off is streetable down low, and then turn the quadzilla xzt after you get rolling.…

It's not the ScangaugeII.... Advance Auto was supposed to have one, so I got the Actron scanner. From what I can see, It doe basically the same as the ScangaugeII. After setup... (vehicle make model year engine) it will not only give a code, but what the code actually is. (I'll take codes and confirm either in here or elsewhere)So, here we go! 2000 Dodge 3500, cumminsP0336 crankshaft position sensor A circuitThat probably explains my bonker tachP1689 No communication with electric control and pump module.This probably explains the dying at idle, (sometimes) or an occasional buck..OR (possible light bulb just came on my ti…

I'm having some brake issues that I would like to get figured out. I believe I already know the answer but I would like some advice. My brake pedal is starting to take a longer then usual time to return. About every other brake, the pedal is just slow to return, I can manually take my foot and pull it back up and it will release the brakes. My vacuum pump was leaking oil, so I bought the seal kit to change it out. While I was in there, I decided to change the power steering pump. The install went great, everything working fine. Then the power steering pump developed a leak at the bottom pressure line that I didn't notice and it ran all the oil out of the pump. After I…