2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Alright, working on the whole "heater core" project and I had to remove some other misc. parts I deemed for removal to get to the relevant parts. One of them being the turbo downpipe to the intercooler. Upon inspection, I found very dark oil residue. It has a sheen to it. Its not heavy, but it covers the inside so much that its black.I'm not sure if this means my turbo is shot, or if the K&N filter that used to be in it was the culprit. I can only think of cleaning the downpipe and driving it for a while and then take a look at it again to see if there is a presence of oil or not to figure out whether or not my turbo needs rebuilt.If I do need to rebuild it, where can…

2001 Cummins 2wd tach works for 7 seconds then stops replaced cam sensor any other suggestions thanks for the help

Had a catastrophic failure today and had to get the truck towed home. I thought it was a simple serp belt failure. But after tensioning the new belt the alternator was cock eyed. Upon further inspection the lower alternator bolt sheared off clean at the mount. Which is also the lower cooling adapter for the lower hose and bypass. It's a $275 part. So I plan to remove it and work to get the bolt out. Are there any words of wisdom in taking this project on? I know I'm going to loose all the coolant. Weird problem. Bolt is broken off flush with the mount. looks like it takes an O ring to seal around the lower hose inlet part of the assembly. Is the…

I think it turned out good. Still have to put lens back on but I need to finish bolting up the front of truck and then set up my final adjustments before I seal them up.

Finally got new filters for the airdog

Before I am going to do thermostat replacement as started to sticky a little but I will do flush whole coolant as green coolant. I am wonder do I need diesel coolant additive as ford motorcrafts has one? I has four green motorcrafts coolants to use as flush old green coolant out.

Planning ahead right now...truck is all stock, maybe later add little power (not much) ...right now exhaust is 3 inch. What benefits would 4 inch do from exhaust brake to exhaust tip? Lower egt some? Do I have to modify anything? Thanks

So my alternator wire is pretty ragged. I'm talking about the one that runs from the fuse to the alternator. I would really like to replace it, or at least fix it up a bit, but I'm wondering if anyone knows if it is actual straight wire, or a fusible link. I'm thinking it's straight wire as it has a fuse in line too. My thought is to have a new run made up with new ends, and either cut out the old wire from the harness or simply route new alongside. Thoughts? I'm thinking it's either 6 or 4 ga wire. Anyone know?

i was just wandering when you guys rebuild your engines what brand of kits do you use and can any machine shop do the work or is this something you have to make sure they know what their doing? how many of you guys do your own rebuilding, is it pretty easy or a thing a pro should do. i have rebuilt gas engines but never a diesel .

My friend is trouble shooting a problem on his truck and is wanting to try my ecm. His is a 2001 with a 6spd. Will mine work on his truck? If they're not compatible and I did do it could something be damaged? Thanks.

I've have a fuel leak between fass and fuel module. I'm trying to find exact location of leak. Leak is only about 3 drops per min and probably a connection, but I need to find. Is it alright to turn key on and leave it on...way after WTS light goes out? I want to keep fuel under pressure to find where drips are coming from. Thanks

My truck has the worst pedal ever and I've tried resetting a million times and put on a new sensor from OReillys. There are no numbers to set the voltage to and I don't mind spending a little but I don't want to trow parts at it. I had high expectations for this truck but it is the biggest turd I've ever drove right now. Has new lift and injection pumps also. Any help greatly appreciated.

Well hello all, I don't know where to even start..... So this is a customer of ours and it was originally brought to us for no power. 1999 2500 5.9 stock. So.... Originally the truck only had throttle to 1,400 RPMS, Code was 1689, After serious going through, I diaged the ECM to be no good, Also the VP44 was bad too, Replaced VP44 and sent ECM to Auto computer performance to Andrew to repair, He was told the 1689 code and he also asked about the infamous wait to start light problem, Yes that was there too. He sent it back to me and the wait to start was repaired but still had 1689 and only 1,400 rpm. Sent it south again and he said he was pretty sure it was fixed th…

I know there are tidbits buried all through this site for 'doing this, doing that' to get the most out of the fuel dollar.. Is there a way to compile a trouble shoot- flow chart to guide a diy'er to systematically go through the entire system? especially when something has changed, or is getting worse.. Maybe start with the basics; from engine health, electronic health, driveline health (and of course driver mental health) ... which could have actual measurable values.. and where to start looking, measuring. Then go even further with member tried and true 'mods' that have helped. A…

So i got to thinking that having polls will help many make a decision or get a baseline of certain vitals on the cummins. Ill make a poll for a few things, it will help with troubleshooting as i see many times folks asking for "what range should i run" or "what is a good pressure" etc etc. I think these will be beneficial for all of us. Maybe Mike can make them a sticky so folks can get a quick look at vitals and what people run with things quickly.ill make the polls seperate from this thread.

A week ago my wait to start light would flash when i turned the key on but would not power the grid heaters. I replaced the relays and the IAT. Now the truck is throwing codes P0382 P0380 P0237 P0341 P0113. I know what the codes mean but I was hoping someone had experienced this and could help with the diagnosis. Truck is running rough intermittently, at idle it is pretty rough and when driving it is hit and miss. I started the truck about an hour later and now the check engine light isn't on but it is still running rough. All help is appreciated. Thanks.

So I had a annoying slight surge when not under load at highway speeds. I did some research on this and a few other sites and ordered up a Timbos APPS. It got here in only 4 DAYS. I couldn't believe it. I can't get stuff here from Calgary in 4 days and thats only 200 miles away. Anyway got it installed, surge is totally gone and it feels like the first half of throttle is crisper now too. Great instructions and packaging too. Thanks TIMBO!!!

Finally got around to pulling my vacuum and power steering pumps in order to address an oil leak. A pre-purchase inspection showed a crack in the coupler between the two pumps causing the leak. The shop suggested replacing both the pumps as well as the coupler based on the assumption that the crack could have caused mis-alignment of internal shafts leading to wear, etc. Or there could have been some mis-alignment which caused the crack.The vacuum pump, which includes the coupler, runs $460 and the PS pump is $62, not exactly chump change. My local Napa can't source just the coupler.Looking for opinions. Is there validity to the potential damage to the pumps from a cr…

Yesterday, hauled some cattle home, and our sand is pretty dry.. and LOOSE. So, normally I'd kick it into 4x4 as we get close to the load out area. I've learned to kick it in at least 100 yards before expecting the light to come on. Sometimes it comes on immediately, and sometimes I have to stop...back up a little. No matter, yesterday, Nuttin. Crawled under to see if any vac lines were off. All ok. I need to pop the hood to check the vac supply.. although my hvac doors work ok. I did notice the Vacuum motor on the axle disconnect was 'loose'. Not quite floppy, but easy to turn on it's nipple t…

I want to check out oil pressure on a 01 Dodge 3500 because the stock gauge is erratic in the cab. It works good then drops, then works again on and off. I want to check it manually. I know that there is a 1/8x27 npt port on the oil filter housing I can tap into, but can I use a regular oil gauge I have here in the shop for testing purposes with the crappy plastic tubing just to check it? Its not going to be permanent of course. I think the gauge inside is shot, but just checking. Thanks, Steve