2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I am assuming it's the solenoid and/or transducer. The tans shifts fine from first to second. Sometimes it doesn't like to shift to third until a higher rpm or I lift the throttle to coax it to shift. Sometimes it doesn't like to lock up as well. My AC ripple is 0.02 volts which I believe is acceptable (but could be wrong). Does the solenoid and transducer control all shifting? Thank in advance for your help. D

As the title states, someone gave me a Cummins engine for free.... the gent is an old friend of mine and having to move out of a warehouse where he has been storing years of stuff, from MIG airplane parts to just plain misc stuff. He told me about this last week and I drove over with the trailer and we loaded it up today. Its a Cummins 6BT5.9-g5 engine. Fairly complete but it has some "ventilation" in each side of the block where a connecting rod came loose. Reason I wanted it was hoping that it had an injection pump and giblets that might be worth saving, then would just scrap the rest. Getting it back to the shop I find that it is evidently a "stationary running…

I have a 99 24v 2500 2wd Mostly happens when truck warmed up' It will drop out of OD and sometimes then drop to 2nd. I have dome all the cleaning up etc. I have fresh pink fluid no slipping just wont stay in od mostly. A funny thing is when it does this if you set the cruise it will take off running faster.Trans was rebuilt according to previous owner but don't know who. I have been told that the shifts are controlled by electric in trans. Have not but do intend to replace VSS, but got a feeling it is more then that. Thank you for any help [i do have a new alternator on way for lock/unlock problem.

There are many abbreviations in reference to our Dodge trucks.....some of them are familiar, many are not.Did a search, and didn't find a 'list' .....Would members elaborate on some of the abbreviations ....... thank you, GregBHAF ... big honkin' air filter

Well I have leak on my drivers side tank. Who makes a good radiator. Is the original a 2 row or 3

Since my last oil change when I put in 0-40 synthetic oil I've noticed increased blow by up to where there is a fair size of a spot on the floor. Is this an indication of an overhaul in the near future or is it not a big worry short term?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi, I am in need of help with my truck. I just did the head gasket and had the head surfaced, put in arp head studs. Put the truck all back together and now it starts hard. It takes two good cranking sessions when it's cold(40 degrees) after sitting all night and even with the engine hot it still takes a good 15 second crank to fire. The truck was extremely hard to start after reassembly, it took a lot longer than normal to bleed the fuel lines than previous times. My grid heater is working and my wait to start light is working. So why is it starting hard? It used to never crank more than 2-5 seconds cold. I can't find the plugin for the IAT sensor after putting the head …

http://www.rocksolidramtrucksteering.com/ I just found your information searching sites for my steering issues today and i was about to spend lots of money to try to fix my issues. I was reading every ones replies and crawled under my truck and had my wife turn the steering wheel with and without engine running and didn't see any play that would cause the steering to wonder as bad as it does, so i grabbed the column and my bearing at firewall is completely gone, so i guess i will be ordering one shortly

With less that 100K and complete? Saw one for sale for $2K and was wondering if that was a good price.

I guess that's not entirely true, I did tow once last year with the turbo and injectors but that was with the Edge tuner. I had to drag my camper in for a recall fix last week. I grabbed a tow tune I found on the forum and it seemed to do pretty good. Road was mostly flat with a few small hills, had no issues keeping EGT's below 1000*, usually around 800*. I did pass 1100* once but I was hammering on it pretty good just to see how high it would go. The temps don't climb near as fast now with the stock tires and Adrenaline tuner. I gave myself 40 minutes to make what should have been a 30 minute trip and completed it in 18 minutes. Any tips or directions to go with…

the 12 valve and 24 valve cummins running the cummins supplied computer, along with the chrysler supplied pcm... make up our 'management operations'. Am I wrong to think the cummins' ecm does the actual engine management.... but is 'guided' by the pcm?so when a person mods with a performance module, they are actually 'fooling' the cummin's ecm with 'false' info from pcm?? ( so to induce higher boost, more timing, more fuel, etc..)The reason I ask, is the '94 ranch truck I am getting ready to build this winter still awaits my decision on which power plant: A simple 12 valve, totally mechanical on one end of my choices, to a …

Currently when I turn the key on it tells me there is no fuel the low fuel light comes on. It was just a few months ago I changed the sensor out in the tank. The volt gauge tends to start fine but later on drop to 8V even though my battery voltage is 14.2 to 14.5 volts still. Now I plan on verifying the fuel sender to see if I can measure any ohm resistance at the PCM if so them the sensor is fine by the PCM had failed. Volt gauge I really can't test no way being the voltage is sensed and the reported to the cluster over the CCD network. I might be calling @Auto Computer Specialist and talking to them on warranty call.

Looking for torque specs for front case to block bolts useing cummins gasket? And also front cover to case bolts useing gray right stuff? Thanks

Hi All, I recently bought this truck. I checked for error codes to see if there was anything that required my attention. I got 4 codes... P0753 - 3-4 shift solenoid / trans relay circuit P0713 - trans temp sensor voltage too high P1763 - governor pressure sensor volts too high P1687 - no cluster bus message I am confused as to why i am getting p0753 because i have a 5 spd manual in the truck. Is this normal any insight on this and any of the other codes would be helpful. Thanks.

Sam, here's some pics u requested I don't think the spate will fit: Muffler location Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2

I recently put a HO pump on my SO motor and it idles at about 1100 rpm once it warms up. If you floor it it’ll idle normal. But the ECM has a few high voltage codes for sensors so I’m wondering if the 5v supply is going whack or if I need to get an SO pump to put on.

A buddy of mine has a 01 SO motor and he started blowing black and started knocking, well he towed it home and to me it does not sound bad enought to be a lower end knock I think its a fuel related knock. I have a set of HO injectors out of my sons truck my question is will they work in a SO? I dont see there would be a diff. :shrug:He just called and told me just installed a Airdog 150 day before yesterday, I dont see any relationship there, the AD install wouldnt have any efect,.

Well as I was crawling under the truck I noticed the straight pipe was looking rather rotten and full of small holes. So I now replaced it with a fresh piece of pipe and no longer have to worry about that. What was amazing is the clamp came off good and was totally re-usable. I didn't break them or gall up the threads. I chased he threads with a nut and anti-seized them again and back on the pipe they went. 11 year old clamps and still going.

For all of you that use a Big Honkin' Air Filter like myself. While back I quit putting the air filter minder in the head of the filter, well I went a bit too long on this filter even though the restriction is minimal really didn't see any huge temp difference per se. Now changing to fresh BHAF supplied by @dieselautopower and got it installed. Very small changes in temperature did occur. Coolant is down about 3 degrees, engine oil temperature is down about 3 degrees as well. Now EGTs really didnt change a lot but cruise state seems a tad cooler hard telling. Now as for MPG just making the trip down for my chemo appt. I only used 1/8 of fuel for 125 mile trip. …

Pictured is the block numbers I just installed in my truck. I removed the infamous 53 block. After attempting to start with no luck.... I researched and found that the back of the cam gear with the newer block has a tone wheel where the original only had a notch. I'm in the process of swapping the cams out because I'm sure this is the reason for the no start. I would like to identify this block for future reference if anyone can help me out. 1998.5 ram 3500